My '79 GS850

[RadRacer]

Friend of my dad gave me this bike. Picked it up last week, but he couldn't locate the key so I didn't do anything to it but stare and drool . I picked up the key today. After 10 minutes of kicking it over (battery is dead) it still hasn't come to life. I'm hoping to start tearing into it more tomorrow. I'll log everything here as I progress. I'm hoping it's easy to get running and serves me for many years

 

[eil]

Before you start tearing it apart, get yourself a factory service manual by following the links in BassCliff's mega-welcome. (Link to it is in my sig down below.) Learn about the bike and how to maintain it, form a plan to get it caught up on maintenance, and then go hog-wild in the garage. We see lots of people come through here who just do the bare minimum to get their new-to-them bike to run and then complain when it starts running poorly or things go wrong. Spend the time (and money) to catch up on all the maintenance up-front and then you'll have miles and miles of trouble-free riding.

Welcome!

 

[portdave]

I am just up the road from you if you need some help. We were working on my son's 77 750 today. Congrats.

 

[RadRacer]

Before you start tearing it apart, get yourself a factory service manual by following the links in BassCliff's mega-welcome. (Link to it is in my sig down below.) Learn about the bike and how to maintain it, form a plan to get it caught up on maintenance, and then go hog-wild in the garage. We see lots of people come through here who just do the bare minimum to get their new-to-them bike to run and then complain when it starts running poorly or things go wrong. Spend the time (and money) to catch up on all the maintenance up-front and then you'll have miles and miles of trouble-free riding.

Welcome!

Already read a lot. Planning on doing a lot of preventative maintenance before it becomes road worthy. But I wanna figure out if it will run at all before I start putting money into it.

I am just up the road from you if you need some help. We were working on my son's 77 750 today. Congrats.

Wow, you aren't too far. I'll definitely let you know if I need any help. I have some mechanical knowledge, my dad is an aircraft mechanic, and my uncle has his own shop, so hopefully I've got enough know-how around me to get it done.

Tried cranking it today. Battery won't hold a charge at all, so it definitely needs to be replaced. Jumped it from the car and it turned over nicely, but wouldn't fire up. Started pulling the airbox off and a boot tore apart already :-/. Spark is there, but it seems kinda faint. Fuel is there, I see it dripping from the bowl. Air filter was oily as hell, hence me trying to pull the airbox.

 

[portdave]

Just let me know if you need someone kinda local. I do have the sync tool for the carbs and you have the same carbs as the 750 that we just rebuilt. Just got back from a test drive and it is running awesome.

Just keep going thru the basics. Read all the beginner suggestions. This is a phenomenal site full of lots of experienced riders and mechanics.

Fuel may be getting to the bowl but may not be getting to the engine like it is supposed to. If you need a new battery then chromebattery.com is great and very reasonable.

Which boot tore? I might have some extras. The boots on the air filter box are usually a good thing to replace since new ones make it much easier to get the carbs in and out.

Make sure if you jump it from the car that the car is not running. Quick way to ruin stuff.

 

[RadRacer]

Will do, thanks for the offer. May have to take you up on the sync tool, once I get it running good. I actually work in Melbourne, and plan on riding the bike to work once it's in good condition. It came with a Clymer manual, so I've been reading over that some.

It definitely seems like the carbs are gonna have to be cleaned. If nothing more than for my own peace of mind.

The boot on the airbox is what tore. The one for cylinder 2 (not sure if they're identical, looks like it though). Next paycheck I'm going to pick up a set of o-rings and gaskets for the carbs.

 

[RadRacer]

Turns out the airbox boot didn't tear after all, and they all actually look good. Carb boots are a different story though :-/. Cylinder 3 isn't hitting though; next step is Pulling the carbs

 

[RadRacer]

Well, it seems like you guys are right about these bikes. I initially pulled the air box to start working on it, and never put it back once I cranked it up. It ran, but not too well. Any throttle and it died, couldn't take the choke off, etc.

Well, I put the airbox back on today and it runs much nicer. Cylinder 3 is still having issues, but until I get some more tools I can't do anything. I actually rode it on the road today, and it did good

I've talked myself into putting the fairing back on. I think it's a pacifico? I need to find some hard bags too now to complete the look.

The tank needs to be repainted, and the side covers are missing. I want to go through the brakes eventually, but they work for now. Rebuild both cylinders, and new stainless lines.

 

[RadRacer]

Figured I'd post a little update. I think I've got my carb issues sorted out and the bike running good now. I rode it around my street a little and it ran nicely. I need to double check cylinder 3 next time I take it out and see if it's doing any better. I also noticed my gauges are stuck, so they'll have to be opened up. But, I did get a new battery for it. And, after sitting for a few days in cold weather, it fires right up with a quick blip of the starter. Didn't someone say these bikes take time to crank up? . Next on the list is patching the few slight cracks in the fairing, repainting it and the tank, and then brake work. The brakes work, but lose pressure. The lever is soft at first, but hardens up after a pull or two. Sounds like its time to rebuild the master and see where that leaves me. After that, an oil change and new tires will put it on the street :-D

 

[eil]

And, after sitting for a few days in cold weather, it fires right up with a quick blip of the starter. Didn't someone say these bikes take time to crank up? .

They should fire up immediately, in any temperature. A "cold-blooded" GS is a poorly maintained GS.

The brakes work, but lose pressure. The lever is soft at first, but hardens up after a pull or two. Sounds like its time to rebuild the master and see where that leaves me.

Rebuild the calipers too, they're probably even worse off than the masters. And now would be an excellent time to upgrade to some stainless-steel braided lines. Lots of threads on the forum here about it (including where to get them), do some searching.

After that, an oil change and new tires will put it on the street :-D

Lucky duck! On Saturday we had an exceptionally warm day (high of 51 F). I was able to take my bike for a spin to run some errands for the first time since November. But then the next day a minor blizzard swept through and now there's nothing but snow and below-freezing temps for the next 2-3 months.

 

[RadRacer]

They should fire up immediately, in any temperature. A "cold-blooded" GS is a poorly maintained GS.



Rebuild the calipers too, they're probably even worse off than the masters. And now would be an excellent time to upgrade to some stainless-steel braided lines. Lots of threads on the forum here about it (including where to get them), do some searching.



Lucky duck! On Saturday we had an exceptionally warm day (high of 51 F). I was able to take my bike for a spin to run some errands for the first time since November. But then the next day a minor blizzard swept through and now there's nothing but snow and below-freezing temps for the next 2-3 months.

At the rate I've been going, it'll take me 2-3 months to do all of that! The gauges shouldn't be too difficult, and the brakes I think I can handle. I'd love to get some stainless lines, but I don't think I can afford them right now.

 

[RadRacer]

Well, my mind has been changed some. This is now becoming a cafe'ish build. Just hit up eBay, and I have a new headlight, bucket, signals, and handle bars coming. I think clubman were too extreme of an angle, so I went with more of a drag bar style. I'm removing the fairing, lowering the bars, and shaving the fenders some.

 

[RadRacer]

Talking to a local with some parts for sale and he mentioned shocks. For the hell of it, I went and measured what the "lowering bars" the previous owner put on measured...just under 9"! Stock is 13", so that's a very drastic change. New shocks are now on the list

 

[RadRacer]

Scored a set of shocks from a HD Sportster. Guy said they're 13, which they are from tip to tip, but from eye to eye, they're 12.5". So, slightly lower than stock, but has to be better than what I have.

Fairing and mounts are off, New bars are on, and need to get hardware to mount the light and signals. Then, some wiring; the fairing had a harness made for it, so it doesn't have the standard headlight or signal plugs.

 

[RadRacer]

How it began:



Removed the fairing and mounting hardware:



Added a headlight:


"Drag" bars:






New shocks are here, just haven't installed them yet. Should raise the rear end up a little. Definitely needs a new seat. I need proper mounting hardware for the headlight and to do some wiring for it and the flashers (you can see the fairing harness hanging in the pictures). I'm thinking a shorter clutch handle too. I have stubby flashers for the front and rear, just haven't gotten them on yet.

I rode it around the neighborhood the other day, and it seems to run good. Need to get the gauges straightened out (not sure if I'll stay factory). Still trying to get it registered (haven't heard back from PO )

 

[RadRacer]

Installed the shocks last night. Well, almost. Top shock nut stripped the thread when I took it off. I plan on running a smaller die down it and putting a new nut on. However, the right side lower shock mount seems to be shorter than the other 3. Is this normal? Any suggestions on how to make it equal length? And are acorn nuts necessary here, or can I just use a regular nut?

 

[RadRacer]

However, the right side lower shock mount seems to be shorter than the other 3. Is this normal? Any suggestions on how to make it equal length?

Still looking for a solution to this. Is this stud removable and I can just replace it? Should I try making some kind of sleeve to screw onto the stud that's there to extend it? Maybe drill out the center and put a smaller stud in the larger stud?

I was holding off on pulling the carbs, but I think I'm going to. I know the bike runs, so might as well go all in. I was holding back so I didn't ruin the rubber boots, but if they rip I'll just replace them I guess

 

[steve murdoch]

Some good info on shock stud repair in this thread.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?202923-Stripped-rear-shock-mount

 

[RadRacer]

Some good info on shock stud repair in this thread.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?202923-Stripped-rear-shock-mount

I've looked into that. I plan on running a die down the top mount, but the bottom mount: 1) there's no material left to run the die down, and 2) It's on the swing arm, so I'm not sure if the same options would apply. Using the old one as a sleeve is what I'm thinking of doing, providing I have the means to permanently attach the new bolt.

 

[RadRacer]

Had a lot of things happen here lately, so the bike hit the back burner hard. BUT! It's at my new place now, and I have more time and money than before to throw at it . I've replaced the kick stand the PO shortened with a OEM one; I also installed a center stand. I've got a spare seat to cut up, and ideas are swirling in my head. Right now the carbs are off it for dipping. Hoping this clears up my cylinder 3 issue and she purrs nicely once back together.

Here's my plans: With the bars I have on it, I feel pretty comfortable (although I haven't been on it long), so I'm going to work with them. I'm planning on swapping the mirrors for some bar-ends. I want to move the tail forward and shorten/eliminate the rear fender. This will also require a smaller seat (hence the spare to cut up!). While sitting on it, my feet naturally pull up to the passenger pegs, so I'm debating on making linkages to use them for rearsets. Just not sure if going that far with it will work, but we'll see. It currently has factory gauges, but that may change; they stick at the moment, so if I can free them up, they may stay.