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My gs1100L wont make it down the street. Please help.

  • Thread starter Thread starter yoshisakan
  • Start date Start date
Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.
 
Well im going to adjust the timing and try to fire it back up and see if she'll run. If I bent the valves, i'm going to be really ****ed off. I bought this bike to ride, not to rebuild. I have enough projects. The seller assured me that everything was fine with the compression and then I find out it has a blown head gasket.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll keep you updated.
 
MisterCinders said:
Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.
Click to expand...

I am going to get a leakdown tester now. I'll let you all know the results.
 
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yoshisakan said:
Well im going to adjust the timing and try to fire it back up and see if she'll run. If I bent the valves, i'm going to be really ****ed off. I bought this bike to ride, not to rebuild. I have enough projects. The seller assured me that everything was fine with the compression and then I find out it has a blown head gasket.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll keep you updated.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't do this.

Instead, check for bent valves first. At least explore the valve clearances and shine a light into the plug hole to try and inspect the piston tops for damage. You're already going to be in there to check and adjust the cam timing.

If there are no signs of bent valves, then run a compression test without plugs etc. If that checks out, then you can proceed to firing up the engine.

If you have a slightly damaged valve now, going live on that engine might damage more valves, mess up a piston, etc. If you find the damage valve first, you can go in and fix that. OTOH, testing for small damage that adds more damage will send you down the same path (top end tear down) to fix even more things.
 
MisterCinders said:
Check the manual. I think that 2 is zero and 3 is 20. The manual will confirm the right count though.


Also, you can check your valve clearances for an early hint. If you suddenly find huge clearances, something may have bent. Still need to dive in there though.
Click to expand...

BTW - looking at your service manual the cam chain links are #2 = 1 and #3 = 20, like the previous poster mentioned.
 
MisterCinders said:
BTW - looking at your service manual the cam chain links are #2 = 1 and #3 = 20, like the previous poster mentioned.
Click to expand...

I did see those in the manual, the crank timing mark is what screwed me.

Well I ran a leakdown test and all 4 exhaust valves are leaking air. The intake valves seem to be unaffected though. I found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-L-EXH...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item519a33f08e#ht_500wt_1180 any idea if they will fit my bike? My exact model is a 1982 GS1100L. Is there a way to replace the valves without pulling the head? I talked to a machine shop today and they said that I could do it if I had a spring compressor.

I didn't think to shine a light down in there to look for piston damage. I'll do that tomorrow. I hope that doesn't open up a whole new can of worms.
 
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If you have already bent the valves, it will be PAINFULLY obvious if you shine a bright flashlight into #1 or 4 cylinder and
turn the engine with the 19mm wrench on the end of the crankshaft as you WILL see the valve hit the piston. :eek:

Eric
 
No, they are not the same as your 82GL model, they have different part numbers in the micro fiche.
 
old_skool said:
No, they are not the same as your 82GL model, they have different part numbers in the micro fiche.
Click to expand...

What is the difference between a GL and an L? My old 1000GL said that on the side cover. This one just says 1100L.

In another note, the valves smacked my pistons hard enough to eff them up. At least in cylinder 1. I'm not sure where to go from here, but I feel like I have a $1400 chunk of scrap metal sitting too close to my Datsun.
 
Hi,

The "G" in the model number denotes a shaft drive. The side covers for th "L" models usually do not include the "G" and say only "L" for both the shaft and chain models.

You'll find a model information chart on the GSR homepage.

It may be more convenient to find an engine or parts bike with an intact engine to swap.

Thank
you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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7981GS said:
You could buy another head and gaskets.

Eric
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how bad off my pistons are. I'm going to pull the head tomorrow and look. From what I could see peering in with a flash light, it didn't look good. I don't know if i'm going to need new pistons now or what. I'm really hoping they are usable.
 
yoshisakan said:
but I feel like I have a $1400 chunk of scrap metal
Click to expand...

$1400??, is that what you paid for the bike? Where are you located? Those can be usually had a lot cheaper, especially a parts bike for an engine swap, might be the easiest way to go, then rebuild your engine at your leisure.
How about some pics when you get it apart, or for the whole bike even.
 
This really sucks for you dude. I feel your pain.

Purchasing a complete used head is still your best option, but if you want to take the valves out of your existing one, you'll need one of these and a 8" C clamp from Harbor Freight.

It's a piece of 1" ID PVC pipe about 3.5" tall with a 1.75 section cut out of it about 3/4" from the bottom. That's a thick fender washer glued to the top.

photo2.jpg


With the head off and valve buckets out, put the non-movable side of the c clamp on the bottom of the valve, put your homemade tool on the top of the valve and compress it with the clamp. That will expose the two semi-circular keys that hold the valve. You'll see how they work once you remove them. Remove these with a needlenose pliers and uncompress the c clamp. The valve should now slip out of the bottom. Be very careful when you compress it. Make sure that it can't slip off, otherwise things may go flying.

Installation is the reverse of above. The only trick I have for that is to put a tiny bit of grease on the inside of the keys to hold them in place while you uncompress the c clamp.

While this is out you'll want to change the 30 year old valve seals and have someone check out the valve guides because they could be damaged as well.
 
ChicagoRob said:
This really sucks for you dude. I feel your pain.

Purchasing a complete used head is still your best option, but if you want to take the valves out of your existing one, you'll need one of these and a 8" C clamp from Harbor Freight.

It's a piece of 1" ID PVC pipe about 3.5" tall with a 1.75 section cut out of it about 3/4" from the bottom. That's a thick fender washer glued to the top.

photo2.jpg


With the head off and valve buckets out, put the non-movable side of the c clamp on the bottom of the valve, put your homemade tool on the top of the valve and compress it with the clamp. That will expose the two semi-circular keys that hold the valve. You'll see how they work once you remove them. Remove these with a needlenose pliers and uncompress the c clamp. The valve should now slip out of the bottom. Be very careful when you compress it. Make sure that it can't slip off, otherwise things may go flying.

Installation is the reverse of above. The only trick I have for that is to put a tiny bit of grease on the inside of the keys to hold them in place while you uncompress the c clamp.

While this is out you'll want to change the 30 year old valve seals and have someone check out the valve guides because they could be damaged as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rob. Today I'm going to work on removing all the valves. Do you know where to buy exhaust valves without paying a fortune?

I paid $900 for the bike, but I have already put a lot of time and money into it.
 
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I'd replace those bent valves by swapping out the head or picking up new valves. Trying to straighten out bent valves for reuse seems treacherous.

Looks like new exhaust valves for your bike are about $40 each from Z1.:eek:

Where are you located? I have a second head for my 8-valve 750. The valves may be the same as yours. If the parts can swap, my spares are straight and in pretty good shape. You might need to do some work to fit them your valve seats and will definitely need to lap them, at least.
 
yoshisakan said:
I paid $900 for the bike, but I have already put a lot of time and money into it.
Click to expand...

That sounds a little better, I wouldn't be worried about what you invest in your bike within reason, most of us will never get out what we paid and put into our bikes if you add up all the $$ and labor spent, a lot of what is done is replacing 30 year old components which add little value but more reliability. That's why I try not to sink my own money into a build/restore but money from other parts bikes, it's still money gone, but I feel a little better about it should I have to get rid of it. Take your time, and hopefully you've got the bad luck behind you for awhile, and once you get the head done and any tank damage handled, maybe you can concentrate on getting it to a running condition so maybe you can enjoy riding during some of it's build process. Wish all the luck!!
 
MisterCinders said:
I'd replace those bent valves by swapping out the head or picking up new valves. Trying to straighten out bent valves for reuse seems treacherous.

Looks like new exhaust valves for your bike are about $40 each from Z1.:eek:

Where are you located? I have a second head for my 8-valve 750. The valves may be the same as yours. If the parts can swap, my spares are straight and in pretty good shape. You might need to do some work to fit them your valve seats and will definitely need to lap them, at least.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome if they are the same. I am in Lakewood, Ohio (44107) I read all about reseating and lapping valves last night. I watched some youtube videos and it seems like its within my capability. I'm planning to do this to all of my valves. I guess I might as well check out my valve bucket clearance and get some new shims while i'm at it.
 
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Lakewood?...Damn, your a neighbor. Grew up on the west side of Cleveland, hung out a lot in Lakewood. Depending on what your doing this weekend, maybe I can stop by, not sure how much help at this junction I can be, but pm me, let me know, I think it might be ok riding weather on Sunday to swing by.
 
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