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my regulator modification

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
8O
Choices, choices, choices!!!

Suzy is a sensible 1100, what do you guys recommend as the best option?
Will the 400-500 R/Rs give enough charge?

Never know they might even work for my GL1200 - same problem, slower bike.

Col
 
Would this work on my 450?

I'm just looking to make her as reliable as possible.
 
so does any other maker (kaw, honda, etc) work, just as long as it ain't a suzuki?? and what if it was from a 1000 instead of a 400, would they all be the same or do they differ by enough to matter?

hope someone is still listening to this post...


how about a SH238-12??
 
the SH238-12 is the way to go, whilst getting one from a "boneyard" is cheaper it is still an old part, I prefer to fit new parts, and hence recommend the new one.
Dink
 
There seems to be a lot of confusion going on with the Honda R/R's and their numbers. Different R/R numbers show up on the same bikes and vice-versa by the looks of it. It looks like you can't reliably go by a lot of the numbers but what you are looking for is one that has the capacity to handle your charging needs. Many of the older Honda R/R's from the 400's on up will work. What you are looking for is that you have the three yellow wires coming from the R/R for the stator connections, a wire (mine was green and had two, some are black) for the ground and/or negative to the battery, a wire (mine was red and had two) for the positive battery connection and sometimes a smaller gauge wire (mine was black, some are brown) that goes to a switched positive 12V source. If it has this extra small gauge wire it must be hooked up. Mine was a SH538-12 from a Honda GL500 Silverwing which is probably a heavier duty regulator than the standard ones and why it probably had the extra ground and positive wires. If you're not confused enough already there is more info and a wiring diagram available by doing a search for "choosing a honda r/r"
Try here for the wiring diagrams ftp://ftp.dimensional.com/users/gizmo42/
 
well I got it, it's from an '82 yamaha, and I paid eight bucks with shipping! I figured for that I could use it for a paperweight if it doesn't work for me!!
eBay

I'll have to wait till it stops raining to test everything, as I realized the voltmeter that I found only goes up to 10V, where as the one I lost was better. :evil: so I have to ride to work now to use a good one.
 
I am trying to do this conversion, but I am afraid to hook something up wrong and fry my system. What has me concerned is that the stock setup does not have all 3 stator wires going to the RR. Before I start rerouting stuff I?d like a second opinion. I have;

3 wires from Stator
Yellow ?(plugs into)?Yellow on RR
White/blue ?(plugs into)? White/blue on RR
White/green?(plugs into)? White/green on harness going under tank.

3 wires from Harness
White/green (this is the one that loops directly to the stator above)
Red ?(plugs into) ? Red on RR
White/red ?(plugs into)?White/red on RR

1 Black/white wire on RR is grounded to frame.

My newish RR from a Honda has;
3 Yellow
2 Red
2 Green
1 Black

Where do they go?

Please forgive the double post in Tips and tricks and Technical Help. I need help ASAP.
Thank you,
Patrick
 
The white/green wire from the stator goes to the left handlebar switch in is controlled by the headlight on/off switch and goes back to the R/R via the white/red wire. This is most likely redundant as your headlight switch is probably locked in the on position anyway. It is OK and advisable to bypass this switch and connect the white/green wire directly to one of the yellow wires on the new R/R. Or to the white/red from the old R/R if it is still in use. It sounds like you have the same Honda R/R that I used with the extra red positive and extra green negative wires. If you scroll back up this thread you will see where I explain the correct way to connect the Honda R/R wires. If any of the bullet connectors aren?t in great shape take the time to replace these while you?re at it.

EDIT: Just read my previous post and here is a little more detail on exactly how I wired my GS1000. One red directly to the positive battery post and one to the existing red on the wiring harness. One green directly to the negative battery post and one to the frame. Three yellow wires to the three wires from the stator. The smaller gauge black wire I connected to the orange/white on the back of the fuse box. It has to be hooked to a switched power source and that was a tidy and convenient place.
 
I replaced the Rectifier with a 2003 Honda CBR 954 RR as follows:

850G Leads?????????Honda RR
Stator Yellow?????????RR Yellow
Stator White/blue??????RR Yellow
Stator White/green?????RR Yellow
Harness Red?????????RR Red
Battery +???????????RR Red
Battery -???????????RR Green
Frame Ground????????RR Green
Fuse box, keyed+??????RR Black
?Harness White/green???XX capped
?Harness White/red?????XX capped

Unfortunately, it did not seem to make a difference. At idle the battery shows something like 12.4 volts and at about 4k it shows 12.75 on the volt meter.
But now the turn signal flashes quickly at idle, but gives me a solid light when the bike is moving.
I will be rechecking the grounds for a good conection. Any chance those 2 capped wires are important? Headlight switch is High/Low and still works. Other than the new turn signal issue I dont see any "new" problems.
Patrick
 
can anyone tell me if this swap will work for a gs 450 my regulator just took a dump and it too has 4 wires coming out of it. a red wire, yellow wire,white/red stripe white/blue stripe if i could fix this cheaply that would be great!!!
 
If you have an older model (like my '78 GS400c) one of the stator wires goes to the headlight switch. It turns off one phase of the alternator when the headlight is turned off, in order to reduce the current through the regulator.
 
am I the only person that had a separate rectifier AND regulator?
 
Nope.When I got my 550 one of the 8 previous owners had replaced the rectifier with a Suzi reg/rectifier unit but then plugged it into the old regulator.Didn't last long........
Got the bike cheap as no one could fix the charging problem.One Honda unit and 90000 miles later she still charges fine on the original alternator.
 
I showed 11.9V at idle and 12.some at 5000 rpm. Too low. However, I'm sure that my battery was not fully charged so I am presently charging it. Will test again later.
Click to expand...
That doesn't sound right at all, if the battery is not fully charged you should be hitting 14+ volts at 5000rpm.
 
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