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MY starter

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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A

Anonymous

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MY 1100e had been acting up for a couple of days. Then the other day it just didn't react when i pushed the starter button. I never even thought of checking the switch on the clutch lever till this second.
Any way, please help me think. If i run 12 volts directly to the starter, bypassing the solenoid, shouldn't that make it turn over. I'm not at the new residence now and will go later to test it. I will appreciate any direction. It seems that whenever my own bike acts up, i forget everything i have ever leaned. I hope it not just age. :? i put the battery on a 24 hour slow charge already. im in a pickle now because i may move in a day or two and havent purchased a car yet and i still havent found the used ignitor for my yammy.
Thanks all.
 
can't you just take a screwdriver and bridge the contacts on the solenoid?

i did that for a few days before i figured out my new 550 had a clutch switch... :oops:
 
Yes, it should turn it over if you run 12V directly to it. Just watch the spark it's going to create, fumes from the battery are explosive. I'd apply the voltage to the starter last, so the spark isn't right at the battery.
If you short across the solenoid poles does it click at all? That should help indicate if it's the solenoid or something in the switch curcuit.
 
i did both i think. I may not have the correct terminals. My eyes and ears are not so good any more. I found the battery cable to the solenoid and it is hot. I hear the solenoid click. I bridged the two large terminals and nothing. I put a voltmeter on what i think is the black thick wire going to the starter and there is nothing when i activate the solenoid. I will have to look at the setup((WITH MY SONS EYES AND SEE WHAT I MISSED. i WILL EVEN REMOVE THE STARTER WIRE TO BE SURE THE SOLENOID POINTS ARE GOOD BUT WHEN I BRIDGED THE 2 HEAVY WIRES SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE HAPPENED. i MUST BE DOING SOMETHING QUITE OBVIOUSLY DUMB. My SON AND i WILL GO BACK SOON AND THEN I WILL HAVE HIM LOOK AT THE SETUP. I thought this was baby stuff but it has got me some how???
((capital letters = a screwed up left hand))) Thanks for the responses so far.
 
Sure sounds like you did it right.
Sounds like a dead starter :cry: .
Sorry 'bout that.
I haven't tried to pull an 1100 starter with the carbs in place, but if it's easy to get out then you can apply voltage directly to the ingoing pole on the starter (and ground to it's body) and know for sure. Or, I think, you should be able to get clear access to the pole with the starter cover off and do the same thing. Can't imagine the cable from the solenoid to the starter is that bad but it's possible.
 
pjackson said:
Sure sounds like you did it right.
Sounds like a dead starter :cry: .
Sorry 'bout that.
I haven't tried to pull an 1100 starter with the carbs in place, but if it's easy to get out then you can apply voltage directly to the ingoing pole on the starter (and ground to it's body) and know for sure. Or, I think, you should be able to get clear access to the pole with the starter cover off and do the same thing. Can't imagine the cable from the solenoid to the starter is that bad but it's possible.
Click to expand...

Catch this Pete. i disconnected the starter cable from the solenoid and then when i hit the starter button i got 12 volts to the starter side of the solenoid. I just took the starter to a re builder and the starter is good. So it could be that the batt has a dead short when under load(((OOPS OPEN I MEANT)) Or as soon as the solenoid starts to draw any current it opens up. but i ran a direct wire from the plus on the battery directly to the terminal on the starter and i didn't get a peep. I am suspecting that the battery open as soon as a load is put on it. I will take it for a light load test tomorrow. i will also make a new starter wire even though i made a new one for it last year that is over sized and has soldered terminals. Boy as soon a as think i know something about electricity WOW. The battery is not even one year old. 8O 8O 8O
 
P.S. here is another case for a volt meter. I may have noticed unusual voltage drops if i had a meter permanantly :? in the circuit
 
Sounds like a battery to me also. Not as costly as a starter - so that's the good news.
 
Swanny said:
Sounds like a battery to me also. Not as costly as a starter - so that's the good news.
Click to expand...
I hope it is the battery also. just to get the diagnosis correct. The starter is the original starter and i am having the arm. turned, new brushes and bushings installed as long as it is out. i will also make a new starter wire. I thought that i replaced it but it doesn't look like i did. I'm thinking of buying a new automobile solenoid that will fit where the original one fits just as an over kill also. any reason why i shouldn't use an auto solenoid. Maybe one off a small Jap car????
 
Can't think of any reason why you couldn't use another auto solenoid. The pull in voltage would be the same if on a 12V system. As long as it mounts you should be golden.
 
Swanny said:
Can't think of any reason why you couldn't use another auto solenoid. The pull in voltage would be the same if on a 12V system. As long as it mounts you should be golden.
Click to expand...
as long as I'm renovating the system i think i will try the solenoid also. I had a new stator put on a couple of weeks ago. That really surprised me with all of the wire maintenance that i do. The bike has been running a Honda RR for years--the last owner had it done at the same bone yard/ repair shop that i go to.
 
Hmmm..
So it's possible for the battery to show full voltage (or there abouts) but not supply any amps (or at least not enough for the starter to even click)?
 
Exactly. A battery can read 12V when not asked to produce any current. When a load is applied, the voltage will drop if the battery cannot keep up with the electrical demands.

Since Scotty already checked the starter and the cables were good to the starter, my money is on the battery.

Incidentally, a good battery should read about 14.7 volts.
 
Swanny said:
Exactly. A battery can read 12V when not asked to produce any current. When a load is applied, the voltage will drop if the battery cannot keep up with the electrical demands.

Since Scotty already checked the starter and the cables were good to the starter, my money is on the battery.

Incidentally, a good battery should read about 14.7 volts.
Click to expand...
i know im losing it when ididnt monitor the battery voltage while attempting to stsrt ther bike. I also have a heqadelight switch which would be able to put a load on the battery on demand. Well enough for hindsight. The battery failed some sort of test at discount auto parts. I asume its a light load test of aome sort. I will take the battery back to the shop where I boughtit 8 months ago. Im going back to yausa. A battery showing only 12 volts is considered a discharged battery. I always also thought that a fully charged battery was at least 14.5 volts. Boy am i getting rusty. This fix is taking way too long.
 
After the batter failed a light load test at discount auto parts.(some overconfident 25 year old. I had a bad feeling and took the battery to the Suzuki dealer((40 miles away) it passed the light load test there. I believe that the person at discount auto use some car battery specs. She was too quick in setting the thing up. My mechanic told me that even though the starter tested good at the re builder, there was a possibility that one of the brushes had been hung up and when it was being set up for the test, the brush became un stuck.
Well an how i have the battery again on a 1 amp slow charge. My son made me a new wire from the starter solenoid to the starter. Now i wait for the starter to come back on Thursday $75 and change. I still would like to replace the solenoid nut it is about $65 from Suzuki and i will still look into using an automobile solenoid soon. First i have to see if the bike is fixed.
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Check for a solenoid at local lawn mower shop
Click to expand...
good idea. After i get the starter back and if it turns out that the starter indeed was the culprit i will still be looking to replace the solenoid as a pm manuvre.
 
Swanny said:
A battery can read 12V when not asked to produce any current. When a load is applied, the voltage will drop if the battery cannot keep up with the electrical demands.

Incidentally, a good battery should read about 14.7 volts.
Click to expand...

Ummm.....when it is charging that is. A fully charged battery will be right about 12.8 volts unless my battery tester is incorrect. Didn't want everybody thinking their battery is losing it when they only get 12.8 on a multimeter. :) Bob
 
cabinover said:
Swanny said:
A battery can read 12V when not asked to produce any current. When a load is applied, the voltage will drop if the battery cannot keep up with the electrical demands.

Incidentally, a good battery should read about 14.7 volts.
Click to expand...

Ummm.....when it is charging that is. A fully charged battery will be right about 12.8 volts unless my battery tester is incorrect. Didn't want everybody thinking their battery is losing it when they only get 12.8 on a multimeter. :) Bob
Click to expand...
i think your battery tester is off. I uaually get well over 13 volts in a fully charged battewry and i always remember reading that it should be over 14 volts---I THEENK :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
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