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Neat Article: Why Auto Oils are just as good as Motorcycle Oils

  • Thread starter Thread starter shawzygs850
  • Start date Start date
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shawzygs850

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Very cool article by a scientist and fellow rider who attempted to prove automotive oil is as effective as motorcycle oil. Why should we pay a premium for an equal or lesser product?

Also shows synthetics get bonus points.



http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
 
Mr. shawzygs850,

Thank you very much for sharing that article. I happen to use the Castrol Syntec blend (20w50) because it was recommended by a friend. I guess that was a pretty good recommendation.

The only thing the article didn't specifically mention was the wet clutch and if the different oils caused any differences in clutch action or wear. All in all, an interesting article.

BTW, the oil I use doesn't seem to mess the with clutch action at all. No problems so far.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Interesting article. I wish I could find one that was not at least 13 years old. A lot has changed in the past decade and I feel like we may not be getting the information we really need to make intelligent decisions on oil for our bikes.

Hap
 
That article is hopelessly outdated. It has been discussed many, many, times here.

Probably every brand and type of oil mentioned in it has been reformulated by now. Mobil 1 has been changed at least 3 times.
 
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A link to that article could be found in one of the 'garage' sections here on the GSR for a long time.....not sure if it has been removed.
BassCliff, the problem I have with buying synthetic blends is that the ratio of synthetic/dino oil in the blend is never made known.....it is technically still a synthetic blend with as little as 2% synthetic oil added to straight dino juice. Better IMHO to buy quarts of both and use them in a ratio that we think appropriate. BTW, even the 'full synthetic' Castrol Syntec cannot be marketed as a synthetic oil outside North America, because it fails to meet the stricter European definition of a synthetic oil.....due to successful litigation by Castrol, the definition of 'synthetic oil' was changed here.

Tony.
 
Thanks Mr. Mysuzyq!

I realize the information in the article is dated but I'll bet the conclusions are still factual, that higher priced "specialty" oils aren't any better than their automotive counterparts.

I figure if I use pretty good oil and change it often enough (less than 2000 miles) then my engine will last a good long time. I always change the filter too.

Oh boy. I'm sorry. I'm really NOT trying to start another "my oil is better than your oil" flame fest. :-D The fact that we are using several different oils and our bikes are still running is a testament to the high quality and consistency of those oil products in general, plus our maintenance schedule. :-D

Although, newer test data would be most interesting.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Outdated it is indeed - however has anyone found anything to the contrary? I am very interested to see something that gives me reason to believe Motorcycle oil is the only answer.

Forgive me jimcor if I am re-hashing an old topic I am new to the board and thought it was worth sharing.
 
BassCliff said:
Thanks Mr. Mysuzyq!

I realize the information in the article is dated but I'll bet the conclusions are still factual, that higher priced "specialty" oils aren't any better than their automotive counterparts....
BassCliff
Click to expand...


I agree.....I recall a story on the net about some guy putting about 200k on his CBR 900 with no engine issues, and using Castrol GTX exclusively. I think you and Shawzygs might find the BITOG forum of some interest....I check it out from time to time...we on the GSR are not even half as anal about our oil as that bunch :-D .....check it.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Tony.
 
shawzygs850 said:
Very cool article by a scientist and fellow rider who attempted to prove automotive oil is as effective as motorcycle oil. Why should we pay a premium for an equal or lesser product?

Also shows synthetics get bonus points.



[URL]http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm[/URL]
Click to expand...

My bike is air cooled. It runs alot hotter than my car/truck. Realistically it will hit 240F normally. It has clutches that need friction. It is old 26. My car 23 and truck 11 are old. I still put Suzuki MC oil in the MC and F0MOCO approved car oil in the car and MOPAR approved truck oil in the truck and they all run just fine. Those are my "articles". I have never had to rebuild an engine/transmission - yet. I also haven't had to resort to the blue tablets - yet as I use organic cheapest lite beer in me.\\:D/
 
shawzygs850 said:
Forgive me jimcor if I am re-hashing an old topic I am new to the board and thought it was worth sharing.
Click to expand...

Nah, that wasn't a slam at you. I just wish people would remove outdated stuff from the net. I do the same thing, find something new to me only to find out it's dated info.

FWIW in just about every oil thread (just can't resist 'em) I mention I use whatever auto oil is on sale in the Suzuki recommended 10W40 type.
 
Rather than hash and re-hash which oil is better than another, for the sake of the newbies that might happen on this thread, let's just point out something to avoid. 8-[

On the back of the oil container, there is the API "seal". In the top half of the seal it will give the rating of the oil, like "API service SM." In the center it will have the viscosity, like "SAE 10W-40. In the bottom half of the seal it might show the words "Energy Conserving." If it shows "Energy Conserving" on the seal, do NOT use it in your bike. There are friction modifiers in it that work wonders in automobiles, but they tend to modify the friction in our wet clutches. The good news is that you don't have to read every can. I have not yet seen those words on any oil thicker than 30w, so any 10w-40, 20w-50, etc. will not have the words. They are just too viscous to qualify as 'energy conserving'. Even Rotella Synthetic, at 5w-40 does not have the words.

Overall, it does not matter a whole lot what oil you use. Just try to stick with one brand, as the different additive packages are not necessarily compatible with each other, and change it on a regular basis.

That's my two cents, and I expect change. 8-[


.
 
Mysuzyq said:
BTW, even the 'full synthetic' Castrol Syntec cannot be marketed as a synthetic oil outside North America, because it fails to meet the stricter European definition of a synthetic oil.

Tony.
Click to expand...

We have three descriptions in Europe.

'Full Synthetic' - means just that - no Dino content at all.

'Semi-Synthetic' means a mixture of some kind.

And then there's pure Dino.

Harley's Syn3 for instance, can not be legally described as a Full Synthetic here.

In general, it is recommended that Full Synthetic and Dino should only be mixed on an emergency basis to get you home, and such a mix should be flushed out and replaced ASAP.

Semi-Synthetic can be mixed with either Full Synthetic or Dino with no problems, other than reducing the Full Synthetic change interval to that of a Dino oil.

It's getting hard to find a Dino oil here any more, though. Both Full and Semi-Synthetic are available universally at any gas station.

Just to stir things up a bit, I quite like to run Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel oil - just 'cos it's got a whole bunch of detergent in it which keeps everything cleaner.

Someone's gonna tell me I shouldn't do that :D
 
Pete Logan said:
I quite like to run Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel oil - just 'cos it's got a whole bunch of detergent in it which keeps everything cleaner.

Someone's gonna tell me I shouldn't do that :D
Click to expand...

Certainly not me. 8-[

Not sure we have fully-synthetic here, but I run Rotella Synthetic (probably just a blend) 5w-40 in most of my vehicles. Only switched to that since Mobil 1 is no longer available in gallon jugs anywhere near me, and the quarts are a bit more expensive.


.
 
82gs1100 said:
anybody useing amsoil
Click to expand...

Amsoil is a true synthetic and reputed to be in the very top tier of oils.

Sorry if this post steps on the toes of some others that have posted here in this thread. That's the problem with oil threads, lots of conflicting information which means different people often being openly contradicted - NOTHING PERSONAL.

Synthetic oils come in different varieties: true synthetic (group 4) and super processed dino oil (for lack of a better term) - group 3. This is not to be confused with mixed synthetic which is most usually a mix of dino and group 3.

There is nothing wrong with mixing synthetic with dino - the blends are just that. Even when using true synthetic.

The main advantage of synthetic oils is that they last longer thus you can extend your change interval. They are not more slippery thus they don't protect better - EXCEPT if you overheat the crap out of your engine (which IS possible with an air cooled engine). Synthetics are even appropriate for break-in since again, they are not more slippery. Many OE engines come with synthetic oil from new (like BMW) so no worry about rings not seating and the like.

Most of the newer dino car oils have a very low zinc content. Frankly, I'm not sure if this is a TRUE problem or not - I suspect not. My opinion (key word) is that diesel engine dino oil is a better option since the additive package is more robust and thus appropriate for motorcycles engines.

Hope this information helps clear up some confusion. :)
 
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Nessism said:
Amsoil is a true synthetic and reputed to be in the very top tier of oils.

Sorry if this post steps on the toes of some others that have posted here in this thread..:)
Click to expand...
Amsoil is the best, and the only reason I don't use it is because I can't find it over here.

In the States, you can get it mail order. There are independent agents who will send it out to you.

The best known on the Harley forums is George Douglas, who sponsors on at least two forums.

He's a proven man, absolutely straight up.

I can post contact info if anyone's interested.
 
Pete Logan said:
We have three descriptions in Europe.

'Full Synthetic' - means just that - no Dino content at all.
Click to expand...

Which is why, I believe, Castrol Syntec is formulated differently for the European market....the version available to us is manufactured using 'Group 3' stock.... super-processed Group 3 as Nessism puts it.

BTW,I have never heard of any restrictions placed on mixing full synth and dino oil....I think Mobil says they are fully compatible on their site, IIRC.

Tony.
 
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