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Need a little guidance to get my "new" bike running

  • Thread starter Thread starter smithbm
  • Start date Start date
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smithbm

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Hello all. My father recently handed me a 1981 GS 550T with the typical "If you can get it running, you can have it!" phrase. He handed me a parts bike as well (I believe it's a 1981 GS 550L). Sadly, the carbs, stator, and RR were salvaged before he got it. He put it away about five years ago when the battery stopped holding a charge. It has 28,000 miles on it. He says it ran beautifully when he garaged it (except for the charging problem). I suspect the stator and/or RR are to blame, however I can't get her running so that they can be tested. :confused:

I put a new battery with a full charge on it. The lights come on, the ignition switch is on, the clutch is held, the kickstand is up... but nothing happens when I press the start button. Not even a sound. The starter solenoid works fine when I connect it direcly to a 12V power source. I can get it to turn over by shorting across the solenoid with a screwdriver, but it still won't sputter to life (I suspect carb/fuel issues). We took the ignition switch apart and it passed our contenuity checks. All of the electrical connections look good. Is there a fuse between the starter solenoid and the ignition switch that I am not aware of? Maybe I'm doing something wrong? What is the best way to clean the wiring harness connections?

I plan to replace the stator and RR if necessary. I also plan to rebuild the carbs. I don't really have a lot of time to work on it so this will probably take some time (and a ton of questions). Great site by the way!
 
Handle bar switches may be all corroded. Was the garage where it was stored damp?
 
It was stored in the back of a large (20'x20') shed with no door, so it was open to the outside air but not getting rained on. Corroded terminals is definitely a possibility, but wouldn't that cause the switch to fail a continuity test?
 
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What do you mean when you say the carbs, stator and RR were "salvaged" before you bought it? You mean off another bike?

Do you have spark? When the engine turns over are you getting a spark at the plug?

Do you have gas getting to the engine?

Start with the easy stuff.

I'm not sure why you would assume that your stator or R/R would be the problem with your bike, there's lot of other things it could be, especially if its a starting issue.

Also whatever switch that is activated by your clutch lever could be bad as well. (I'm not sure how that works however).

Keep us posted.
 
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Welcome to the wonderful world of restoring-old-bikes. You'll find it rewarding once its done and painful on the way there if you "just can't wait to ride" and rush things inappropriately.
You'll have to invest somewhere between 30 to 60 hours of time and some money in tools - but you'll have a bike that will cost pennies in comparison to a new bike. And the older bikes are significantly easier to maintain in the sense that they require fewer highly specialized/expensive tools.

The typical stuff is:
carb cleaning
electrical contact cleaning
sealing all air and exhaust leaks
new plugs
oil change

Once you get it running halfway decent you can move on to:
charging system
ignition system
vavle clearance adjustment
new fork seals (if necessary)

If you look at my past posts to this forum you'll find that I went through all of the above on three different bikes - restoring non-running bikes has become a hobby. My posts alone should give you a great starting point, but I suggest you pay special attention to Earl's posts on the issues you have problems with.

Good Luck!
 
try the wiring nest in the headlight bucket, I found multiple loose and corroded connections in there, get a can of contact cleaner spray and some dielectric grease and go to town on them. seems like everything goes thru the bucket in the end... .;-)
 
mark said:
What do you mean when you say the carbs, stator and RR were "salvaged" before you bought it? You mean off another bike?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confustication. I meant to say that the carbs, stator, and RR had already been removed from the "spare parts" bike that came along with the bike that I am restoring. Therefore, I can't utilize them as spares or for troubleshooting.

mark said:
Do you have spark? When the engine turns over are you getting a spark at the plug?

Do you have gas getting to the engine?
Click to expand...

I haven't quite made it that far, yet. I got stumped somewhere between the switch and the solenoid.

mark said:
I'm not sure why you would assume that your stator or R/R would be the problem with your bike, there's lot of other things it could be, especially if its a starting issue.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty new to motorcycle mechanics, so my assumptions were very simple (possibly too simple). I assumed that there were only two reasons that my battery would not hold a charge: bad battery or bad charging system. I also assumed that the stator and RR were the most likely components within the charging system to go bad. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing the big picture. I am very open to other ideas or diagnoses.

mark said:
Also whatever switch that is activated by your clutch lever could be bad as well. (I'm not sure how that works however).
Click to expand...

That is definitely a possibility.

I am very impressed. I wasn't expecting such a response. I'm glad I stumbled onto this resource.
 
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nabrams said:
If you look at my past posts to this forum you'll find that I went through all of the above on three different bikes - restoring non-running bikes has become a hobby. My posts alone should give you a great starting point, but I suggest you pay special attention to Earl's posts on the issues you have problems with.
Click to expand...

I will be sure to check out your other posts. I'll keep an eye out for earl as well. All manner of sagely advice is appreciated. [-o<
 
How bad are the connections to the starter solonoid? May be worth giving them a clean up.
My old 550 used to have a small problem on the starter. The connection were tight but the connecting bolt was loose in the motor, but if you an get it to turn over by shorting across it could just be the starter solonoid.
Having stood for a period have you tried new fuel in the tank? What about the fuel tap? If the tap is a vacuum type there may be an air lock in the tap after the fuel has evaporated. See if you can get fuel out of the tap then you can check on the carbs by removing one drain bolt from the bottom of one carb.
A little time and perseverance, she'll fire up!

Suzuki mad.
1981 GS1000E
1983 GSX1100ESD in a lot of bit's!
Want to ride but too dam cold !
 
smithbm said:
I'm pretty new to motorcycle mechanics, so my assumptions were very simple (possibly too simple). I assumed that there were only two reasons that my battery would not hold a charge: bad battery or bad charging system. I also assumed that the stator and RR were the most likely components within the charging system to go bad. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing the big picture. I am very open to other ideas or diagnoses.
Click to expand...

Now that I've
 
smithbm said:
I'm pretty new to motorcycle mechanics, so my assumptions were very simple (possibly too simple). I assumed that there were only two reasons that my battery would not hold a charge: bad battery or bad charging system. I also assumed that the stator and RR were the most likely components within the charging system to go bad. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing the big picture. I am very open to other ideas or diagnoses.
Click to expand...

You could be right about your stator and R/R. When I read that your battery wasn't holding a charge, I assumed "bad battery".
 
Ben, a simple mod that I recommend is to bypass the clutch safety switch. It's more trouble than it's worth, and downright frustrating when you're having starting difficulties. Look at the left hand grip and eyeball the two wire color codes going into the clutch lever housing. Open up the headlight bucket and find those same two wires and their respective quick disconnects. Pull the plugs apart and take the two wires that go back into the wiring harness and conect those together, leaving the two wires out to the actual clutch lever housing disconnected. This effectively makes the clutch switch always closed, or connected. This way, you can crank the engine in neutral and still have your left hand available to bump the choke, or move the petcock lever, or whatever. If you ever sell the bike later, you can reconnect the wires and return it to it's standard configuration. If nothing else, that switch may be your starter problem and it'll go away when you bypass it. I long ago developed the habit of starting my bikes in neutral, unless I'm actually sitting on it at the instant, and am planning on riding away the second that the engine starts.
 
DaveDanger said:
I long ago developed the habit of starting my bikes in neutral, unless I'm actually sitting on it at the instant, and am planning on riding away the second that the engine starts.
Click to expand...

I quickly developed that same habit the first time I started up my dad's bike in first gear and immediately let go of the clutch to adjust the choke. The clutch lever switch seems to be a recurring theme. I think I'll bypass it before I go on. Like you said, at the very least I'll find out if it's defective.
 
I highly agree that it's the clutch switch.

They are pretty poorly built in my opinion, and have a tendacy to fail if moisture and grime get involved.

Let us know how it goes
 
Had a similar problem with my 850 , came down to the bad ground between starter solenoid and mounting plate , solved it by adding additional ground straps
 
The ground on the "front" end of the battery box is also notoriously bad.
 
This bike has been stored on its side stand for the duration. Are there any steps I should take prior to attempting to turn the engine over? Someone told me I should remove the spark plugs and shoot some Marvels Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Any thoughts? What is this stuff?
 
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"Marvel Mystery Oil can be added to gas or oil. It combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge". That's the trade lingo speaking. Suffice it to say that it's a pretty good penetrant and lubricant for the insides of engines. Available at nearly any Wal-Mart or auto-parts store. It can't hurt :)
 
smithbm said:
This bike has been stored on its side stand for the duration. Are there any steps I should take prior to attempting to turn the engine over? Someone told me I should remove the spark plugs and shoot some Marvels Mystery Oil into the cylinders. Any thoughts? What is this stuff?
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. Usually about a teaspoon or so is enough in each cylinder. I've always just used regular motor oil, but Marvels is a favorite of folks on this site. I use a syringe to just squirt it in there.

You might want to check for spark first. Have a good battery fully charged. Oh, and make sure there is enough oil in the bike. :)
 
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