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Need a push in the right direction.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Doug
  • Start date Start date
D

Doug

Guest
I bought an 83 GS1100e that is all stock save a different front fender and cross tube support.

It didn't run. The battery was scrap. I put in a new Yusa with the little probe thing as that is proper.

Start sequence;

Key to on, clutch lever pulled in, on-off to on run position, depress start button. = Nothing.

I pulled the plugs and jumped the starter relay. It turns over smoothly.

Other noted electric squawks include,but I don't think related to the starting circuit(??) that may offer direction to diagnosis; side stand panel light inoperative, turn signals don't flash, front brake does not illuminate brake light (switch tested and passed, run position switch tested ans passed) gear position indicator inop, horns inop.

Pulling the head light revealed melted insulation on a connector - green w/white stripe wire to red with white stripe wire. I don't think the wiring diagram I have is for the 1100e as no there is no gear selection wiring other than Neutral shown.

So.... any suggestions as to where I should go next.. come on no snickering. I would like to get it running but may have sell it as my health is slipping and my balance is not good.

Thanks lads,

Doug
 
Start with the fusebox. :-k

In order, the fuses are:
LIGHTS
SIGNALS
IGNITION
MAIN
ACC
- .......+ (<-- these are the ACC screw terminals)

- When you turn the key ON, you should also see your warning lights on the panel and the headlight.

- If you don't see either one, check the MAIN fuse.

- If you see one or the other, but not both, check the fuse for the dead circuit.

- The IGNITION fuse powers the coils, ignitor and power to activate the solenoid. The only part that is real obvious is the lack of a "click" when you push the button. It's hard to tell if/when the coils are powered unless you have a meter or a test light on the coil terminals.


Doug said:
.. come on no snickering.
Click to expand...
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.......
smileyslaughing_lol_dielaughing_100-100.gif
.......
smileyslaughing_lol_hehe_100-102.gif


.
 
I am not an electrical guru, but from what you have described, I would suggest that you need to go through the complete electrical system. The white/green and white/red wires that have a melted connector are from one of the stator legs going to the "headlight loop". Connect all 3 stator wires directly to the R/R, bypassing that "headlight loop" (many posts about this on the forum).

Clean every connector, including the connections at the fuse box, and pay attention to the grounding (earth) wires. Read up about "single point ground" and how to clean connectors and fuse box connections in posts by member Posplayr. Once all this has been done, do the "Quick Test" as described by member Posplayr. Also measure the voltage drops as described in the "Revised Stator Papers" to determine if you still have problems with high resistance due to poor connections.

After all the above has been done, your bike should reward you with healthy voltages and good running.
 
That melted connector came at the end of a sequence of events that may include r/r failure, stator failure.
I would assume that the wiring is compromised in a few places and disconnect the r/r at the very least and start checking from the battery out through the fusebox and on.
 
Thanks Lads,

I think I finally found a proper wiring diagram on the web. I've blown it up and using the Windows 10 Snipping tool, then printed it out as several pages so I can read the thing.
 
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