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need clarification on charging sys troubleshooting flowchart

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
You can check your regulator/rectifier by following the Suzuki procedure below.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.
 
Wingnut said:
Michael,

I have the same problem, and am doing the same thing. Stator checked OK at 77V A/C @ 4500 all three phases. Close enough. But on my digital meter when I switch to the diode test for the RR the reading is in ohms not volts. Two of the three test were open anyway. Then I checked it in ohms and got pretty much the same thing. Seems the RR is bad.

My major concern is with the bike running and everything connected the charging voltage is low, yeah OK. But the red wire coming from the RR gets pretty hot pretty fast as does the RR. In say 1 minute or so.

I wonder if the RR is drawing off the system to GRD and thats what makes the red wire so hot? Ah, I have and idea, be right back.

Nope, that was a lie. Tried it again and its the stator wires that are getting hot. The red just happens to be in that bundle. But, running only 30 seconds or so to take a reading you still can't touch the RR. Now I am seeing how when the RR fails it overheats the stator and takes it out also. And why some people put in a new RR and everythings fine and a little while later the Stator goes, becaused it was stressed during the RR failure. It's all getting clearer now.

Calling Elextrex Monday to get another RR.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are right on the brink. Don't ride it until you fix it!

Michael
 
Question for the gurus:

If I'm concerned that my RR is going out, but can't afford a new one, and still want to ride my bike, can I just completely disconnect both the RR and stator, and just plug the bike into the charger every night? Will it cause a heat issue in the stator?

Michael
 
It will not harm the stator if you disconnect its 3 yellow wires from the R/R and cap the output wire ends so they cannot ground against anything metal.
Disconnecting or removing the R/R from the bike will not hurt anything either.
The bike runs on DC power, so the normal function of the stator and R/R is to replace the DC power that is being consumed from the battery. Your bike probably has a 12 amp capacity battery. If you charge the battery until it shows at least 12.8 volts, then it should be about 95% charged. Assuming you need to run headlights, tail lights, coils/ignition brake light and turn signals, I estimate your power consumption to be about 8-9 amps per hour assuming there is likely some corrosion in the wiring and conductivity loss. Assuming the bike starts easily, you probably can run for 45 minutes on battery alone if it is fully charged. You can deduct 10 minutes of running time from that 45 for every time you shut it down and need to restart the engine.

Earl

mopolopo said:
Question for the gurus:

If I'm concerned that my RR is going out, but can't afford a new one, and still want to ride my bike, can I just completely disconnect both the RR and stator, and just plug the bike into the charger every night? Will it cause a heat issue in the stator?

Michael
Click to expand...
 
Aw poopyhead. That won't really work either. 45 min is just not long enough. <sigh> I better get a job and/or sell my car quick! I'm not going to make it another month this way. And definitely no room for new RR.

Thanks earl!

Michael
 
diode test function is....

diode test function is....

the measurement of a voltage drop across the semi-conductor junction of any diode or transistor. If you measure a diode in forward bias direction it should show around .7 volts. If measured in reverse bias direction it should show open circuit. If the diode test just beeps and shows zero you have a shorted diode or if youre measuring a piece of wire or a connector you have a good circuit. Many meters have this test mode but most people just assume it beeps to say continuity in the circuit. The meter sends a small voltage out one probe and "turns on" the diode to generate the .7 volt reading of a good diode. If the diode cant be turned on with the red and black test leads applied in both direction then the diode is "open" or no good. If it beeps and shows zero its shorted and no good. This is harder to explain but easy to show if you have a single diode in front of you!!!!!!
 
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