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Need Detailed instructions on rebuilding carbs on 83 suzuki GS300L

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jbowles
  • Start date Start date
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Jbowles

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Hello I recently came into possession of a 83 Suzuki GS300L. I'm pretty sure all I need to do is rebuild the carbs and it will run nicely. But and this is a big but, I can't find any detailed instructions on how to rebuild the carburetors. I am mechanically inclined thus I do maintenance on my on car but never a motorcycle. I've spend hours online trying to find as much info on this motorcycle as I can, I did however find a service manual for a gs250t and it has a small section towards the back on the gs300L but its narrated for an experienced technician, it skips a lot of detail, definitely not for a beginner or a diyer, I've been able to locate o rings and gaskets for it, thank god, but no instructions, the service manual did mention a couple of special tools I would need for when I sync the carbs but I can't find the tools and to make matters worse the pictures are faded and fussy so that do help either. I know that certain parts like the jets and fuel and air adjustment screws are set at the factory and I have no idea on how to figure out how to put them back in the exact same position once I've disassembled the carburetors. Then once I have them back in I don't know how to sync and adjust the fuel and air flow nor where the find the tools. Please I need a lot of help, apparently this bike was not very popular and only made for a few years so their is next to nothing on the details on this bike that exist.
 
Download this manual from Basscliff's website...

http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS250T-300LZ_manual-82.pdf

Page 4-3 has an exploded diagram of where everything goes.
Page 4-4 through 4-7 explains how the carb works.
Page 4-8 through 4-14 shows disassembly and reassembly.
Page 4-15 through 4-16 shows how to sync the carbs.

The sync tool can be made using 2 vacuum gauges. The driver tool is just a pass through 8mm socket with a small flat head screwdriver in the middle. You can buy one but if you know someone with a welder I think you could get one made a lot cheaper.

When I rebuilt my carbs I bought all new o rings, springs, needles, seats, enrichment plunger assemblies, jets and gaskets. You may not need to do all that but I didn't have any service history on this bike, so I wanted to do it right. I sent the stripped bodies to be ultrasonically cleaned and blew out all the passages with compressed air after I got them back.

Unfortunately the air screw on the top of the carbs didn't have plugs when I got the bike but they were turned out 1.25 turns. The way I adjusted mine (and I don't know if this is right...) was start at 1.5 turns out then slowly turn out the screws an eighth turn at a time until the idle wouldn't go up any more then left them there and adjusted the idle down to about 1300RPM. They ended up at 2 turns out.

The bike runs great although a little lean at upper RPM. The stock main jets are 115 so I am going to try #120 and see if that makes a difference.

Hope that info helps
 
Thank you BiomedDr & Tom203, your assistance has helped a lot. I have a couple issues still.
1. I don't know what a driver tool is and what is for. Please clarify for me please.

2. Do I really need to disassemble the diaphragm? I can't get to the c clip.

3. I’m having trouble removing the needle jet, I tried pushing on it hoping it would come out inside the chamber, the I pushed on it from inside the chamber after looking at a diagram of the carb and noticing how it goes in but it wouldn’t budge. I did notice something peculiar though, Inside the needle jet there is about one inch of threads even though the main jet only screws in about one quarter on an inch.

I tried to include three pictures but for some reason I could only upload one.
If you need more let me know

I appreciate all the help you can give me, Thank you
 
Last edited:
Use a wooden dowel & whack the needle jet out... it's just pressed into that bore - note, when you re-assemble, there's a small pin that sticks out from the side of the bore that aligns with the machined slot on the OD of the needle jet... It keeps the needle jet from spinning when you screw in the main jet.
 
Jbowles said:
Thank you BiomedDr & Tom203, your assistance has helped a lot. I have a couple issues still.
1. I don't know what a driver tool is and what is for. Please clarify for me please.

2. Do I really need to disassemble the diaphragm? I can't get to the c clip.

3. I?m having trouble removing the needle jet, I tried pushing on it hoping it would come out inside the chamber, the I pushed on it from inside the chamber after looking at a diagram of the carb and noticing how it goes in but it wouldn?t budge. I did notice something peculiar though, Inside the needle jet there is about one inch of threads even though the main jet only screws in about one quarter on an inch.

I tried to include three pictures but for some reason I could only upload one.
If you need more let me know

I appreciate all the help you can give me, Thank you
Click to expand...

It's an emulsion tube and yes it is a tight fit especially if there is corrosion or junk in the bore it sits in.

Take that brass washer out before you try to push the emulsion tube out.
 
Finish with carbs, got a new mystery

Finish with carbs, got a new mystery

Thank you for all your help, everyone I really appreciate it.
Now on the the next mystery,
When I first got the bike I knew I need to clean out the carbs because of how long its been sitting, however I decided to put in some new plugs and try and starting it just for the heck of it.
Well It did start, only with the choke open of course but I did notice a weird noise when I shut it off. When It was running it sounded fine but when I shut it off for a couple maybe 1 or 2 seconds I could heard what sounded like a light grinding sound. It sounded like it was coming from the starter. Well I took the left two panels off so I could see more than just the starter motor gear itself well I found that the starter motor gear or the splines on it were badly worn down but the starter relay gear next to it and the flywheel next to it were fine not a scratch on them. So I removed the starter motor so I could replace it of course but I was concerned about the starter clutch I heard that sometimes the bolts on it sometime vibrate out but I'm not sure if I need to replace the starter clutch or not. I could only hear the light grinding sound for a couple of seconds after shutting off the engine. obviously the starter needs to be replaced and very well could be the only culprit, please tell me what you think I should do about the starter clutch.
 
The starter clutch is next to the main starter gear, which you area calling a flywheel (which it's not)

now that you have the starter pulled, grab the big gear and try to wiggle it.

If it wiggles at all, you'll need to pull the rotor and check the three bolts, which are in the starter clutch, between the big gear and the rotor

Be sure to check to confirm whether your idler gear has a washer on each side of it (or not)
 
starter clutch

starter clutch

Thank you for the advice Big T.
The big gear behind the the starter clutch does wiggle a little the rotor doesn't wiggle at all. I will need your assistance on instructions on how to remove the rotor and starter clutch please.

oh and the idler gear does not have a washer on either side.
Thanks again for your help.
 
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