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Need help fast with clutch ??????'s

Jethro

Jethro

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Past Site Supporter
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Charter Member
My 83 1100E has had a slipping clutch. I took it apart tonight to check the fiber and plate tolerances and found something I didn't expect. My stupid Haynes manual shows 9 friction plates and 9 plain plates. I had 10 friction plates and 11 plain plates!!!! Can anyone make sense of this and set me straight? Also, with more plain plates than fibers, I had a plain plate right against the pressure plate!?!? This isn't right, is it?

In addition, my plain plates and fibers both measure within specs. But when I put in the 9 plates and 9 fibers, the pressure plate obviously doesn't have enough clearance from the clutch hub.

I'm confused.
 
In "82" or "83" the GS 1100 E's clutch was changed from 9 friction & 9 plain plates to 10 friction & 11 plain. The thickness was decreased on these newer plates, so the 21 newer plates should be the same thickness as the 18 plates from the earlier models.
 
With 11 plain plates and 9 friction, that means the outermost plate would have to be a plain plate and the pressure plate would therefore be steel against steel (or aluminum against steel). I can't imagine that is correct. My pressure plate showed signs of slipping and abnornal wear from the dimples in the plain plate.

Anyway, it's a non-issue now- I put the barely used 9 plates and 9 fibers from my 81 in there. No more slipping, pressure plate is hitting a friction plate, and all seems well.
 
Jethro I just checked my Haynes manual ( I also have a model specific genuine) and yes it is supposed to be 10 friction and 11 plain , with a plain plate at either end.
Dink
 
Jethro I just checked my Haynes manual ( I also have a model specific genuine) and yes it is supposed to be 10 friction and 11 plain , with a plain plate at either end.
Click to expand...

Wow. Does anyone else find this insane? There is no doubt that this would cause slipping and much faster wear. Steel rubbing aluminum at extreme rotational speeds = bad.
 
Are you sure it is a stock clutch. Most Barnett racing replacements had extra plates with high tension springs. This was a very common modification for most of us lost in the eighties. It would reduce the clutch slipping on a launch. It also built up your forearms hauling it in. Hope that helps. :)
 
Jethro said:
Jethro I just checked my Haynes manual ( I also have a model specific genuine) and yes it is supposed to be 10 friction and 11 plain , with a plain plate at either end.
Click to expand...

Wow. Does anyone else find this insane? There is no doubt that this would cause slipping and much faster wear. Steel rubbing aluminum at extreme rotational speeds = bad.
Click to expand...

the extra steel plate spins with the aluminum presure plate, so the friction disc rubs the stronger steel disc.
 
clutch

clutch

all you need to do is take off all the plates and first put on the thickest metal plate then a fibre plate then a another metal plate the rest are skinnier then the first then a fibre then a metal ect until there all on then reasemble it all
 
Jethro said:
Jethro I just checked my Haynes manual ( I also have a model specific genuine) and yes it is supposed to be 10 friction and 11 plain , with a plain plate at either end.
Click to expand...

Wow. Does anyone else find this insane? There is no doubt that this would cause slipping and much faster wear. Steel rubbing aluminum at extreme rotational speeds = bad.
Click to expand...

The pressure plate, and the steel plate don't move relative to one another. So the steel plate just acts as a buffer between the friction plate, and the pressure plate.
 
The pressure plate, and the steel plate don't move relative to one another. So the steel plate just acts as a buffer between the friction plate, and the pressure plate.
Click to expand...

Confused. They move relative to one another, don't they?
 
The pressure plate bolts to the inner hub, and the steel plates are splined over the inner hub, so the move together. The fibers are splined to the outer hub, and when pressure is applied the plates clamp together to make everything move together.
 
Right you are! For some reason it's taken me forever to figure out exactly how a clutch works. And I've taken both of them off my bikes before!
 
I had the exact same issue today when I replaced my clutch plates. The kit came with 9, the schematic said 9, and the clymer manual said 9, but there were 10 when I opened it up.

I just put the 9 in, and they fit fine, so I assume there'll be no problem.
 
Yeah, mine has been fine with the 9 plates I used.
 
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