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Need help removing trapped air in master cylinder.

KEITH KRAUSE said:
Someone at a ZX forum mentioned the same thing about leaning the bike to the right. I haven't tried it but this bike seems like it would be difficult to lean. The bars don't stick out much beyond the bodywork and the mirrors stick way out. The mirrors don't like to be tampered with I've heard. They lose their ability to stay tight but still be adjustable.
I appreciate the help. I'll see about leaning it. If I can do it safely I'll give it a try.
Click to expand...

Keith is there a slave cylinder? An air bubble in the slave will give the same feel as on in the master. Not the same Kaw I know but as I said my ZRX has a hydraulic clutch and it has a hard line with banjos running from a spliter (fed by the MC) to the slave cylinder down on the motor (in my case easy to get to as there is no bodywork, you may have to remove yours to get to your slave cyl).
I'm with you on not being certain tying the lever back will do any good simply because the lever will go to the bar and may not necessarily be at full stroke in the bore.
When I've had problems with brake MCs in this situation I've removed the MC and took it to the bench.. Already suggested I think but this may be the only way to get it out. I set a dowel or a dull drift in a vice, poured fluid directly down the MC bore via the banjo fitting outlet, (with the resivour already filled) and then used the dowel to push the piston to full stroke while keeping my thumb over the banjo hole. It's seemed to be fairly effective every time. Most times a heck of alot moreso than pumping your brains out with a silly mitey vac.,..
 
Not sure how this is set up but what about bleeding the slave like a temperamental caliper? I'm thinking of cases where you have to push the piston back into the bore with clamps to fully bleed the caliper, maybe you could pull the slave and use three hands and both feet to push the clutch rod actuator back into the slave while you bleed it.

/\/\ac

Is is bad that this was my waking thought today?
 
Thanks for the help. I'm working on it. Can't believe what a pain it is.
Anyway, I'm taking a couple weeks off to take my youngest son on a camping trip through Colorado/New Mexico.
When I get back I hope to fix it. I do appreciate all the help!:)
 
I have read this and its my opinion the only way to get air out is to bleed it out the bleeder nipples. The purpose of tying back the levers really is that with the hydraulic pressure applied and maintained for an extended period, this causes the rubber cups to stretch and reatain that memory so as to effect a tighter and more effective seal against the cylinder bore. This tighter seal in turn makes the lever much harder and sensitive because the cups are sealling positively and not allowing fluid bypass to occur. If air will " leak back" and come out into the resivoir cup then that should tell you right away that the cups arent sealing and doing their jobs in the first place. Thank you.
 
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