Need help troubleshooting an odd issue

[chuck hahn]

3RD paragrah of post 1...Only dipped them for about 2 HRS..replaced all the orings with the kit and also the orings in the intake manifolds...Dont think Chefs air leaks the problem..UNLESS.... the intake manifold orings have gotten pinched and out of the groove somehow. Banshee just had an issue with having to stretch the ones he got to go in the intake manifolds and he had the high rev and die scenario. I informed him he had the wrong ones because they should just slip into the groove without stretching. He has replaced them and all is good again.

 

[TheCafeKid]

3RD paragrah of post 1...Only dipped them for about 2 HRS..replaced all the orings with the kit and also the orings in the intake manifolds...Dont think Chefs air leaks the problem..UNLESS.... the intake manifold orings have gotten pinched and out of the groove somehow. Banshee just had an issue with having to stretch the ones he got to go in the intake manifolds and he had the high rev and die scenario. I informed him he had the wrong ones because they should just slip into the groove without stretching. He has replaced them and all is good again.

If he doesn't have the airbox on then he's got a massive air leak

 

[THE_FATTIE]

As far as behind the carbs, I do have the air box on. When I bought the bike it did not have the filter or lid so I bought one off here. The filter is pretty dry tho.. Could that be an issue? Also I dont remember having any difficulty when putting the o-rings on the carb boots. Then again it was a while ago. I know I did put some engine oil on them...

Also this seems to be the closest feeler gauge set I can find.. Will this do for now?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ler-gauge/_/N-265p?itemIdentifier=466516_0_0_

Also I want to make sure that this is my petcock and my carbboots... Im going to buy the petcock just to eliminate it as a possibility. Im still going back and forth on the boots...

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Carb-Holders--Suzuki-GS550-GS650-4410.aspx
http://www.z1enterprises.com/Petcock-vacuum-Suzuki-1715.aspx

 

[cowboyup3371]

You should definitely purchase the boots if there is any sort of a crack on any of them or if they are hard at all as they are a big issue for the hanging idle problem. I replaced mine as one had a crack around the vacuum screw (where you connect the synchronizer); I didn't have a huge issue but it was enough to warrant it.

 

[Guest]

While it is running spray carb cleaner around the boots and if the idle changes you have an air leak. Use the straw on the can to keep the spray isolated so it doesn't find another way into the air box.

 

[THE_FATTIE]

Not really a success but progress non the less...

While tinkering around today I thought I should get some more gas as I was about out. I got a 5 gallon gas can and filled my bike up. Right when it was almost full I noticed a very strong gas smell. I looked down and had a puddle! Upon further inspection I found out that while the bike was not running and the petcock was in the On position that I had a pretty steady stream of gas coming out between the two left (as you sit on the bike) carbs.

So Im thinking a new petcock and new floats and needle valves are in order. When I dipped them they did not look that bad, but then again I have not messed with carbs much so I really dont know what "good" parts look like. Is it a safe bet to get new ones just to be sure?

 

[TheCafeKid]

The float needles will be due for replacement generally if they have a distinct "groove" worn into the tips that you can feel with your finger nail. It'll be a ringed groove around the tip from where the needle seals in the inlet seat. They're not horridly expensive so if you question them, just purchase new.
As for the petcock, if it's leaking that badly in the "ON" position with the motor off, it's trash. This is assuming its a stock one and not a pingel or other aftermarket that is only on or off. (yours should be a vacuum type stock)
Rebuild kits are generally a bad idea simply because the success rate is rather low. Don't listen to the cheap arses who say "if you clean em right blah blah blah, they can be rebuilt.." The fact of the matter is, once the insides of those taps get pitted from corrosion and varnish, even cleaning them well and installing a rebuild kit is no sure thing. The difference here is you might spend $15 on a rebuild, vs $45-50 on a new petcock. If the rebuild works, great, if it doesn't, and doesn't leak profusely, you may not notice it until your crank case is full of gas, and then you're out another $20 for new oil and filter or more. And worse case it washes your bearings down or you snap a conrod when it hydro locks. Unlike the early (pre-1980) bikes, your carbs don't have overflow tubes to dump fuel onto the ground in this situation. Instead the bowls will fill til the gas flows out of the carb throats and into your airbox and crank case. Like any fluid, gasoline will not compress, and if it overflows into your cylinders, the potential is there for you to come out, try to start the bike with a cylinder full of gas and it will snap a connecting rod. This is worse case but it's not something to play with.
A new petcock will ensure that you have NO leakage. Spend the dough now, and don't worry about it for 20 more years. Or you might end up spending major bucks later. That's my philosophy on it.

If you've already had evidence of a leaking petcock, don't run the bike at all until you've changed the oil and filter. Once you've got the petcock sorted out, and you're sure your float needles and float heights are correct, and you're ready for some shake down runs, change the oil and filter again within 50-100 miles. This will help ensure that you've eliminated all of the gasoline from your oiling system. As I've said here and many have said before, the 8 valve 550 and 750 engines are probably the most near bulletproof of the GS line, but one thing that will kill ANY engine is gassed out oil. It thins the oil, washes the bearings and cylinder walls of precious lubrication and will allow metal on metal contact which will do serious damage in short order. If you fear that your cylinders have fuel in them as well, once you've changed the oil, pull the plugs and spin the engine without the plugs in, and it should blow out most of the gasoline, at least enough to prevent the worst of the damage. Change the oil again as mentioned and you'll be good

 

[THE_FATTIE]

Is this cause for concern? I was working on the bike today, I got the carbs out and decided to take the petcock out. This is where the petcock and the tank meet. It was also covered in orange silicone.

Im about to begin taking apart the carbs again. Hopefully this time Ill be able to recognise things that need to be replaced...

 

[Guest]

What's the inside of the tank look like?

 

[THE_FATTIE]

I cant see much from ether hole... the gas that came out was slightly amber colored... but I have no idea how long its been in there or what additives the PO put in it...

 

[THE_FATTIE]

And progress was brought to a screeching stop just now... I was attempting to dismantle my carbs and they wont come apart. The bowls came off all of them and the needle valves, but none of the brass parts with the filter that the needle valves fit in seem to want to move. I got the top off one, but the rest have the japanese phillips and they are all too stripped to turn, and to stuck to get pliers to move. I got all of the chokes off. And the brass piece under the rubber stopper, 3 came out with little difficulty, but one is starting to break everytime I try to turn it. And now Im finding some black tar looking substance as well as white and green wax like stuff all over then insides. If I would have just dipped them for 24 hours the first time I have a feeling I would not be doing this right now. If I can get them all apart where can I get a set of the alan head screws for my carbs? Ill need 16 for the top, 16 for the bottom and 16 for the two gang bars that hold them all together. Is that all?

 

[chuck hahn]

Got a dremel?? cut slots in them and use a flat tip. take a hammer and kinda gently smack the screwdriver as you try to loosen the bolts. An impact driver will work as well. A few persuasion taps usually break them loose. Any local hardware should have a selection. I have taken the rack right into Ace to get the right ones before.

 

[THE_FATTIE]

I do have a dremel... Not sure why I did not think about that... I guess Im getting a bit tired and wore out... Maybe its the gas fumes.... Thanks chuck hahn

 

[THE_FATTIE]

Almost pure success! Any tips for getting the brass parts out? The thing that holds in the needle valve in. At least I think I know what Im talking about....

 

[cowboyup3371]

I just take a pair of pliers and gently grip and rotate until it pops up. But be very gentle so you don't bust the posts.

 

[THE_FATTIE]

They are pretty stuck... I have 1 that is destroyed already. The brass ripped as I twisted... They are pretty stuck in there....

 

[chuck hahn]

Propane torch to heat the solidified orings and soften them up..then gently grip and twist. See the for sale section and see if Cafe kid has some new float seats for you.

 

[chuck hahn]

Already gave Josh as heads up on possible new float seats for you..just sayin..

 

[chuck hahn]

Youll notice theres a screen on the backs of the float needle seats..be sure they are there for one and clean as well They are an intigrated part of the seat but i have taken carbs apart and some scientist had cut them off. Thats a NO NO.

 

[chuck hahn]

One other thing that may speed up the dip time..still gonna need a 24 session..but if theres as much gunk as you say, then use a toothbrush and some gas or laquer thinner ( whatever ) to kinda prescrub as much as you can before putting them in the dip. Will speed up what the dip has to deal with and keep the dip cleaner for reuse longer.