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Need new swing arm bearings for 82' 1100gk, any known good sources?

  • Thread starter Thread starter urbnbrzln
  • Start date Start date
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urbnbrzln

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Wondering if anyone has found a good source for swingarm bearings, specifically for a 1982 GS1100GK. Took the whole bike apart to the bare frame, found the old bearings to be completely gritty. Engine rebuild will be done over the next week, hoping to get a rolling chassis together to plop the engine into, maybe give it a test run. Been looking online at the major parts retailers, these bearings seem to run at about $40 a pop, kinda steep imo. I know these bearings are an odd size, at 17x40x15.25, however I feel like there may be a much cheaper and suitable replacement out there that I don't know about. Any input is greatly appreciated. Here's a pic of the engine as its coming along just for fun. Thanks for reading!
IMG_20170110_193035.jpg
 
I would classify them as a "performance" item so ill be shopping for OEM
 
Are you SURE about your measurements? :-k

The part number on that bearing is 17012. Virtually all of the online suppliers of that bearing show it as 17x40x13.25.

As much as I like to buy OEM whenever possible, Suzuki does not make that bearing. It is a generic bearing that is available over the counter at any local bearing supplier. Of course, it is also available online. Seems that same bearing is a clutch release bearing at Toyota (online price is $68) or you can get a more-generic one for $20. Your money, your choice.

In addition to the link above for Amazon, you can also take a look at what eBay has to offer.

.
 
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i havent bought any bearings for your specific bike but i get most all my bearings from all balls or boss bearing
 
Hmm, I'll double check the measurements, I was going off what my local bike shop told me, good possibility they are wrong. I'm taking a look at the swingarm now, would it be prudent to swap out the outer bearing races as well? Left side looks okay, however the right has some crud pretty much fused to it, I will try to wire brush it off when I get off work. If so, how would one go about removing these things? They look similar to the steering stem races, however there's not a hole to put a pry bar through to tap them out. Thanks again!
 
bwringer said:
The "trade number" for that bearing is 30203:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ball-and-roller-bearings/=2m7hofngbxixuu9p9e

If you poke around online using that number, you'll find plenty of options.

Too bad your originals got contaminated -- these tapered shaftie swingarm bearings pretty much last forever if they stay clean-ish and greased.
Click to expand...

Found plenty of cheap options with that trade number, how is that different from the part number, and how did you find the trade number? Thanks for the help, I was pretty ****ed at the thought of spending $90 on bearings that don't even go through a full rotation
 
urbnbrzln said:
Found plenty of cheap options with that trade number, how is that different from the part number, and how did you find the trade number? Thanks for the help, I was pretty ****ed at the thought of spending $90 on bearings that don't even go through a full rotation
Click to expand...

One you know the dimensions, you can narrow them down on McMaster-Carr's web site. And there are many other web sites where you can search by bearing dimensions. Compared to what these bearings are designed for (high speed wheel bearings), they're very understressed when used in a swingarm. You'd be fine using a cheaper Chinese bearing.

For many bearings, the Suzuki part number does contain all or part of the standard "trade" number for metric bearings. In this case, it does not, for reasons we'll never know. For example, the Suzuki part number for the front wheel bearing on most GS models is 08123-63027. This is, of course, a very common 6302 bearing. For wheel bearings, the full part number is 6302-2RS, which stands for 2 Rubber Seals. OEM bearings only have a seal on one side, which I guess saved Suzuki a ha'penny per unit back in the day.
 
Replacing the bearings in a 650 I found the "RS" (rubber seal) impossible to find so I went for the plain ones which were a very reasonable cost by comparison!!.

After all, the originals with rubber seals failed, so it's just as well not to take them for granted and regrease the plain- jane ones often .
 
Anyone know of an effective way to remove the bearing races? I thought about reusing the old ones, but after cleaning them up it is pretty clear they need replaced as well.
 
urbnbrzln said:
Anyone know of an effective way to remove the bearing races? I thought about reusing the old ones, but after cleaning them up it is pretty clear they need replaced as well.
Click to expand...

On my 1100E I used heat from a propane torch and a long punch to knock them out from the far side. If your swingarm is steel (mine is aluminum) the heat is much less effective at loosening the fit, though.


Mark
 
mmattockx said:
On my 1100E I used heat from a propane torch and a long punch to knock them out from the far side. If your swingarm is steel (mine is aluminum) the heat is much less effective at loosening the fit, though.


Mark
Click to expand...

Unfortunately there isn't a hole that goes straight through the swingarm to put a punch through, its for a 1100Gk, I think the swingarms might be a bit different. I just replaced the steering bearing races just as you said, however I have a feeling I might need a highly specialized tool for this job... Then again maybe not, hoping someone has some experience with this.
 
urbnbrzln said:
Unfortunately there isn't a hole that goes straight through the swingarm to put a punch through, its for a 1100Gk, I think the swingarms might be a bit different. I just replaced the steering bearing races just as you said, however I have a feeling I might need a highly specialized tool for this job... Then again maybe not, hoping someone has some experience with this.
Click to expand...
If you can get a Dremel in with a diamond cutting disc, and slice / weaken the race track it will be more amenable to popping out. Alternatively, using a stick welder, lay a bead along the inside (bearing surface) and the cooling of the weld will shrink the entire race enough to loosen it. A combo of both techniques will have them out, I would think. The weld trick on its own worked for me on numerous steering head bearings.
 
You can get a bearing race puller from your local parts store it is connected to a slap hammer and bam out it comes, alternatively you can hit with a chisel, weld it, there are number ways to get them but they will not be reuseable. Good luck
 
Grimly said:
If you can get a Dremel in with a diamond cutting disc, and slice / weaken the race track it will be more amenable to popping out. Alternatively, using a stick welder, lay a bead along the inside (bearing surface) and the cooling of the weld will shrink the entire race enough to loosen it. A combo of both techniques will have them out, I would think. The weld trick on its own worked for me on numerous steering head bearings.
Click to expand...

Cool I will try both methods. I don't have a stick welder, but I got a little hobart that might do the trick. Thank you!
 
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