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Need wiring diagram for start circuit

  • Thread starter Thread starter pooleo
  • Start date Start date
Sir, come back when it's fixed and let us know what your mechanic found wrong with it.
 
Not in anyone's defense or an attack of any kind, I always get a copy of the wiring diagram of whatever vehicle I intend to work on. Most of these poor old girls have been around the buoy several times and a host of previous owners make up their own electrical fixes as time goes along. After a few bikes the general layouts are all the same, mainly the colors of the systems are different. For most of my bikes I've rebuild/rewired or constructed harnesses from the diagrams. Sometimes a cheap buy unbutchered eBay harness is a Godsend.

All that crap said, a safety interlock starting circuit has only a few points that can go wrong. The neutral switch lockout - with clutch perch override, the side stand interrupt, start switch and solenoid are the main players. The sidestand switch and clutch perch switch are easily bypassed as you know leaving the starter switch or solenoid.

The 1100 I am working on wouldn't start off the button last going off the previous owner told me. I took the switch apart and found one of the wires from the kill switch was off. Was this the problem? I don't know as he never gave me enough info of what it wouldn't do. Some brands have the kill switch that it will allow the starter to spin the engine but kill the power to the ignition. Others kill the starter system itself and the engine will not turn over. As I am brand new to Suzukis, I'm not sure how they dealt with it. But I know that on the starter switch terminal there are two yellow jumpers and then 5 other wires from the starter/kill switch. I haven't got into the wiring diagram yet, but I'm sure between these points you can narrow it down. I know for some other brands black, black/white stripe, and green/yellow stripe will spin the starter. I'm sure following the wiring diagram you can find the color combo for yours.

And of course you know that jumping the solenoid doesn't rule it out from having a faulty switch. Direct power to it's leads will see if its any good to close the switch and send power to the starter. With the side covers off, you should be able to hear the solenoid click shut just before sending power to the starter.
 
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pooleo said:
Now with that being said, I now have the diagram and can begin to figure out what the problem is.
Click to expand...

Needing a screwdriver to short out the solenoid still counts as not starting on the button, and does nothing to disprove Steve's advice. You are disputing good advice.

Do you know that the solenoid is good? You should jump the skinny wire on it to the positive battery terminal. If that makes the starter crank, then the solenoid is good.

Here is how it works - I'm going by memory on a GS850/1000G, but I'll put a buck that yours is the same:

The starter solenoid circuit includes the starter button, the ignition switch, the kill switch, and the clutch switch. All these switches need to be closed for power to get to the starter solenoid control wire, which is the skinny one. It does not need to be in neutral. That is why there is a clutch switch. Your green neutral light should no bearing on it. I doubt that the color GS850G wiring diagram on Cliff's site would be wrong for your bike.
 
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The problem has sinced been fixed. You can refer to my repair/fix thread if you would like.
 
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