New 1984 GS1150es owner! Now I've got to change the oil...

[Anonymous]

This is my 2nd bike (the 1st was a 73 cb750, totally stock). I love this bike and have had it for about 2 weeks and figured i should change the oil on it (who knows when it got one last)It's got an aftermarket exhaust system, Vance and Hines 4 into 1 and it looks like the exhaust pipes go straight under where the drain plug is. There's absolutely no room to even get a wrench in there much less actually remove the drain plug. So here's my question, Is there some neato trick that you guys use to easily change your oil? or am i going to have to remove the ENTIRE exhaust system everytime i want to change the oil? It also looks like the oil filter is pretty inaccessable with the 4 into 1. If there really is no easy way, can anyone recomend a decent performance exhaust system that doesn't impede the most basic of maintenance chores. I would think a good 4 into 2 setup wouldn't impede much, any recomendations?
Thanks guys! i am sure glad i found this forum, and i'm sure this is just the 1st of many boneheaded questions

 

[Anonymous]

Oil change

Oil change

Mookie, I have an '82 GS1100E but I'm pretty sure the engine cases are the same. It's probably because the drain plug is recessed into the cooling fins that you can't get to it. Taking off the exhaust isn't that much of a big deal but compared to what you would think it would take just to do a lousy oil change, it is a hassle. Make sure you replace the exhaust gaskets as they are not reusable. The gaskets are easily held in place with a small dab of grease, as they tend to fall out before you can get the exhaust on. I would recommend using a good synthetic oil to increase the amount of time between oil changes to decrease the trouble. I run an old fashioned Kerker megaphone that allows access to the drain plug and retention of the center stand. I hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

My 1150 has a Vance & Hines SS R 2, 4 into 1. Easy access to drain plug, still have center stand, Oil fliter is aggrivating to get to, but can be changed without removing entire pipe.

 

[Anonymous]

I recommend not stripping the drain plug. When using a big wrench on an aluminum thread you only need to get it more or less finger tight. Be sure to use a torque wrench so you don't drop your oil onto your back tire as well.

Steve

 

[Anonymous]

Tips on drainplugs

Tips on drainplugs

It should'nt be much of a problem to yank the pipe to change the oil.
fortunately the stock pipe on my 84 1150 ES has the clearance cause it's very heavy- yours is probably very light-and mine is built up in several pieces. Yours is probably one piece.
Be sure to use a new crush washer of either aluminum or copper and use a torque wrench if you have access to one because it's a BAD situation if the threads get damaged and you don't have a "feel" for the correct torque.