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"New" 79' GS1000E w/ some issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mgriz
  • Start date Start date
Just remember...your words "I plan to get a DJ kit but want to get it running right first". Running right may depend on getting the kit first.
If your pod filters are NOT K&N's, you have a chance to make the stock jet needles work, which is the main reason people buy the kits. But it's trial and error. I suggest the kit because of the time that may be wasted trying to get the stock needle to work and maybe 125 to 130 Mikuni main jets, etc.
There's simply no way of knowing if the stock needles will work without trying. Keep in mind the jet kits are designed with K&N filters in mind, not others. But you can usually get the kits to work with any pods.
Be sure of any compression issues and basic tuning requirements before re-jetting. Bench and then vacuum synch those carbs.
Just for your info, #95 main jet is stock on your model, not #90.
 
Your right, I should probably just bite the bullet and buy the jet kit now. The pods are K&N brand, it just bugs me that it ran very well when I went to look at it and in the hour or so it took me to get from the orig. owners to my place. Anyway, slowly but surely Ill get it back on its wheels. Thanks again for the help.
 
Ok. K&N pods it is. In your first post you said "K&N type", which usually means a K&N imitation.
Your filters will make it easier to re-jet with a jet kit. I like DJ myself.
Let us know if you want help.
 
By the way. Many sellers will install fresh plugs in a bike that's running rich or has burning oil/compression problem. Very common practice. Temporary fix.
How many times have we heard a member say "I installed new plugs and it runs great now", only to find out the engine problem will soon re-appear after it fouls up the fresh plugs.
Your richness and oil burning/poor spark didn't just happen as you drove it home. The problem was masked by fresh plugs or the plugs were cleaned very well just before you arrived.
 
Yeah, at first I didn't think that the brand pods would matter. After finding out it would, I double checked the orig. owners reciepts and they turned out being K&N.

Quick update on my progress... I set the timing and the points, first task that didnt uncover another problem. :) Checked the valve tappet clearences, all but one of them were tight, not extremely tight but < 0.04mm (my feeler gauges don't go to 0.03 :(). The one tappet that was not tight was the exhaust side of the thrid cylinder and it was too loose. However, after checking all of the shim sizes and replacing them (with the same size shim) the clearence became within spec :?: . All of the others remained too tight, Im not sure what might have happened but I hope it has something to do with the poor compression in the 3rd cylinder. Anyway, tomorrow I will be picking up the shims I need, installing them, and rechecking the compression.

P.S. is there a good way to go about cleaning the gasket surface without getting a bunch of junk all over the inside of the head? Thanks again for all the assistance.
 
Cleaning left over gasket can be a pain. I use a razor blade in a few places but you have to be careful obviously. I sometimes use a "special" tool I have around. Just a 1/4" stick of round wood with a bologna cut at each end. I'm able to get under most stubborn gasket material. Best way is to prevent or minimize it by applying a very light coat of grease on each side of the new valve cover gasket. Gasket removal should be much easier next time.
Be sure the new gasket is seated right before replacing the cover. The very front/center part of the gasket loves to move a bit off the surface and will leak if you don't see it happen. The light coat of grease also helps here. The little rubber half moons are famous for leaking too. I suggest new ones though even new ones can leak soon. I assist their sealing with a thin layer of gasket sealer.
Hopefully you followed the factory valve adjustment procedure. Many members just rotate the cams so every measurement is taken with the cam lobe pointing straight up. I've found this will give different reads that are also inaccurate. The quickest and easiest way is to follow the factory procedure and you'll get accurate results.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Ok. K&N pods it is. In your first post you said "K&N type", which usually means a K&N imitation.
Your filters will make it easier to re-jet with a jet kit. I like DJ myself.
Let us know if you want help.
Click to expand...

I second the motion to just get the DJ stage III kit first off. Save your time buddy.
 
So I finished up the valves, I did follow the factory procedure and everything turned out pretty good. Unfourtunatley compression in the 3rd cylinder was not affected :evil: I'm not quite sure what my next step is going to be, if it isnt the rings and its not a tight valve what should I check next?

I'm thinking at this point I should give the other engine a shot, the only issue is that its 2nd gear is broken, so that needs to be replaced. I've found a transmission for sale from an 81 GS 1000G would this work? Its either that or rip out the gear from the engine that is currently on the bike.

Before I start with the other engine I need to check its compression, whats the easiest way of doing that with the engine off the bike?

Thanks again everyone.
 
Is the head or block/deck warped?


My 1000S had lower compression in #2 and #3 cylinders.along with dried out valve seals.
During the rebuild we decked the head and cylinder to get them to mate up.

Just another thought
 
I hope not, I have not had the head off so I wouldnt know...

After reading through some of the previous owners notes it seems that #3 has been a problem in the past. Specifically it says that the exahuast side tappet was frozen at one point and repaired by polishing the tappet. This is the very same tappet that I got a strange measurement on when I first meaured things. So maybe before giving up hope on this engine, I should look into that more carefully. It moved fine when I was cranking it by hand but maybe it gets stuck when its moving a little faster???

Its fairly easy to get the tappet out right? Just remove cam chain tensioner, camshaft holders, EXH camshaft, then it should just pull out. Anything I would need to be wary of? Thanks again.
 
Another Update...

I decided it would be best to swap the head in off of my other engine and see what happens. Unfourtunatley I broke the base seal while taking the head off so I think it would be best to just take the cylinders off and have a look at everything. Since this will be the first time rebuilding anything bigger than a lawn mower engine I'm looking for a little direction.

I'm assuming I will need to bring the cylinders to a machine shop to have them measured and they will tell me if I need new pistons/rings. What are the chances that everything will be just fine w/ the rings and pistons (the engine has about 50K miles on it)? Is it possible that all I will need is to just replace the rings with new OE size rings? What else should I be looking into?

Thanks again...
 
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