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New Bike, Trying to get it to start

  • Thread starter Thread starter oohsam
  • Start date Start date
O

oohsam

Guest
G'day guys
I'm new here. I just bought myself a GS1100G and am building it up.
I've been told the engine cranks over and was running strong recently but doesnt start at the moment...

Before I start initial tests, I'm flushing oils and making sure its got the lube it needs.
In my clymer workshop manual there are a few points that are confusing me.

Firstly. I know where the oil filter is, and drain plug, and I can drain and fill this.
I know where the gear oil filler is, and I can drain and fill that.

It then goes to talk about secondary gear oil, and final drive gear oil.
Do i need to fill/change these in order to diagnose the engine start problems?
Am I missing anything?

I've put new spark plugs in already, so hopefully she's not too much effort to get started.
 
It then goes to talk about secondary gear oil, and final drive gear oil.
Do i need to fill/change these in order to diagnose the engine start problems?
No need to change just to get it started. They are for the driveshaft mechanism.
 
Awesome thanks.
I just popped out and get me a new filter, new oil and gear oil anyway. Might as well do the whole flush.
This way I know its got the good stuff in it.

It may be the battery, or the wiring.....
Is it possible to bypass and jump the ignition terminals with the battery to get it started...handbook says something about this being possible...
 
If battery is ok you should be able to lay screwdriver across large posts on starter solenoid. If it starts that way could be bad ground to solenoid, or bad solenoid, or dirty, broken wiring. terrylee
 
Yeah, start at the battery and go from there for a process of elimination and it'll atleast save you from jumping around to find the problem.
 
I've been told the engine cranks over and was running strong recently but doesnt start at the moment...
Does it crank over without going to the trouble of bypassing the solinoid?? I did not see that you mentioned that.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. oohsam,


Check my little website for basic maintenance help. The "Top 10" and "Top 15" lists will also apply to your bike. Just hit the links below. Let me share the love. :)

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....:)

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
hahah Thanks guys.

I have been reading cliffs site for the past 4 days.
It has some amazing information there. The info on the "where do those hoses go" is exactly what I was looking for when trying to work out which one goes where from the carbs.

Currently, the controls are hanging off the bike, as you can see in th epic. There are no handlebars.
It doesn't crank at the moment, from the button, but I think thats mainly because the wiring is a bit flaky on the controls. However. I will be looking at that tonight.

Im also picking up a new battery....will let you know how I go.
 
Ok. Picked up a new battery. And my pods for the carbies arrived today also.
I fitted them and put some fuel in the tank.

Hooked up the battery, and set the tank to prime. I tested that the valve was working before doing this, and fuel comes out so the valve is fine.

The key that I got with the bike is all battered and I cant get it into the ignition barrel, so I cant crank it by using the start button, hence why I need to short the ignition points with a screw driver. The engine cranks over very strongly, but nothing.

Pulled out the sparkplug 1 with the lead, and rested it on the engine block, to ground it, and tried to crank. No spark in coil 1.
Hmm.....
I will post a new post in the electrical area.
 
New Bike

New Bike

Wow - you change the gear oil, buy air pods, but won't mount the handlebars or get the ignition and controls straight.

It won't start and appears to have no spark.
If the ignition is still off, I don't think it'll generate a spark, or start.
Did you check the kill switch on the right control?
Are you trying to start the engine with the petcock on prime?
 
Heya Scott.
I cant mount the handlebars and controls as the bike has no top tripple clamp. So I've been trying to source one for 2 days now. I finally found one today and it is being posted to me so once that gets here I'll hook all that up.

I know it sounds silly, but i wanted to flush the engine first to make sure it is well lubricated. I didn't even know if there was oil in there at all, and I bought the pods because I didn't want the carbs sitting exposed in my garage...and if I did manage to get it running eventually...needed to make sure it wouldn't suck anything in!

However, I think your right. Not being able to turn the ignition on, would probably not be sending any power to the other parts of the engine that are required to generate the spark.
I thought that the cranking of the engine would move the internals to generate the spark. Wasn't sure that it needed the ignition to be on...
 
I thought that the cranking of the engine would move the internals to generate the spark. Wasn't sure that it needed the ignition to be on...
Yes, on our bikes you definitely need to have power through the ignition circuit. You have never mentioned what bike you have, so we still don't know if you are talking Suzuki or Harley, but since you are on a Suzuki site, we'll assume that's what it is.

Up through '79, the bikes had points to control current through the coils. When the points opened, the coils generated a spark at the plugs. From '80 on up, there were transistorized switches called "ignitors" that replaced the points. They had the same function of iterrupting current through the coils, but needed no maintenance like the points did. Either way, THERE HAS TO BE CURRENT THROUGH THE IGNITION. Only on a magneto-based system like many dirt bikes have do you not need to have the key ON.

Please let us know what bike you are working on. In fact, put it in a signature, so you don't have to remember to mention it every time. While you are at it, also add your location. From your terminology, it sounds like you are "Down Under". That decreases the chance that someone lives close to you, but we do have several members down there.

.
 
Ok fixed up the sig, and the location. I am from down under. You were correct. Is it really that obvious ! hehe.

Ok so the news you gave me is very exciting for me, as there is most likely no issue, but it just needs a key that works.
I'll get the ignition barrel off and take it to a locksmith to make a fresh key.
Thank you so much for the info.
As I was reading your post i was thinking to myself..."this makes perfect sense, its like roll starting a car without the ignition on...it may crank, but it sure as heck wont start".

Thanks for the insight steve. I really do appreciate it.
Hopefully this time next week, i'll have the controls installed properly. I might take the time between now and then to clean up the wiring and terminate and label the wires that are for the accessories so it makes my life a little easier.
 
Just an idea that might work:

Sounds like you have a Clymer manual so you should have a fairly accurate wiring diagram. If the controls are hanging, you can use the diagram to "jump" the correct contacts in the end of the harness to achieve ignition, kill switch (engine run), and start. My GS 450 also seems to have a starter interrupt switch on the diagram. If yours does, you can jump that too.

Might get you going without putting the controls back together. I'm in the same boat as you reviving a bike. I understand why you want to crank the engine early in the process.
 
I'll get the ignition barrel off and take it to a locksmith to make a fresh key.

The ignition barrels can be a pain to take off. The seat lock is fairly easy to take off, at least on my GS550. I've had a locksmith make a key to the seat lock, and it worked with my ignition.
 
I got the ignition barrel off in about 5 minutes! heehe...

Agranner, That does not sound like a bad idea at all. I'll decypher it and jump the cables.
 
Heya Scott.
I cant mount the handlebars and controls as the bike has no top tripple clamp. So I've been trying to source one for 2 days now. I finally found one today and it is being posted to me so once that gets here I'll hook all that up.

I know it sounds silly, but i wanted to flush the engine first to make sure it is well lubricated. I didn't even know if there was oil in there at all, and I bought the pods because I didn't want the carbs sitting exposed in my garage...and if I did manage to get it running eventually...needed to make sure it wouldn't suck anything in!

However, I think your right. Not being able to turn the ignition on, would probably not be sending any power to the other parts of the engine that are required to generate the spark.
I thought that the cranking of the engine would move the internals to generate the spark. Wasn't sure that it needed the ignition to be on...

I just re-read my post - hope it didn't come across like a jerk. Very sorry if it did (I was certainly a little confused by your sequence :eek:) After reading your reply, it makes perfect sense.

Good luck, I'm sure once the basics are in place, you'll get her fired up in no time.
 
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