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New bike won't start

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
I see you live in Fishers. Would you like me to come over and give you a hand? It would be a lot easier than all of this.
I will PM you my phone number and we can talk.
 
Thanks again George that was real cool of you to swing by and explain some things so I don't you touture the other gs members with 1000 other questions. Really appreciate it
 
You are welcome. It was nice to hear another abandoned GS come back to life.
 
I am going with the clutch safety switch was out of adjustment. Reset it or bypass it in the headlight bucket. Or it was missing all together!!!
 
Good tries, but it was pretty simple. He had taken his starter switch apart to clean it and did not reinstall it on the bars, so it had no ground.
Bolted it back on the bars and voila.
It started really easy, and sounded really good, considering it had sat for 8 years.
Lots of issues, clearly a project bike, but he seems patient and understanding.
 
It's funny because as soon as you left I wanted to hear it one more time and hit the button and nothing again! So I removed it and reinstalled it and it worked. What contacts should be cleaned that would make the switch intermittent like that? I've already cleaned the copper button, but what else?
 
May be just a tad loose of a fit on the bars..but don't over tighten the screws and strip them!!

I would cut a thin strip of thin sheet metal metal and wrap the bars and then reclamp it.

If that works as test platform, then maybe shim the body under the wiring plate holders inside so they get better contact to the bars??? Use some small copper washers or something as the shims?

I wouldn't leave the sheet metal in because of it rusting and making a mess running down the bars.
 
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So what piece of metal is actually touching the bars for a ground? I see that little metal notch that fits in the groove of the bars, is that it?
 
One time, the bike had been converted at the carbs probably, which made it a must to change the choke setup. See which one leads to the carbs first off.

May not be the original carbs that came with the bike, thus the conversion.
 
Notch is a locator / ground point. The entire housing can be a ground point as well. Just stick some wire, sheet metal..whatever between the housing and the bars to see if it corrects the solid contacting problem. then youll know what to shim.
 
chuck hahn said:
One time, the bike had been converted at the carbs probably, which made it a must to change the choke setup. See which one leads to the carbs first off.

May not be the original carbs that came with the bike, thus the conversion.
Click to expand...
We talked about the carbs. He has early GSXR 750 flat slide carbs. I showed him my BS-34s on my GPz so he knows what they should look like.
I would leave them on, they work at the moment. The petcock, not so much. A real jury rig.
If the carbs need to be rebuilt I can wing it, but it will be time consuming, as I would have to order all the o-rings from McMaster Carr like I did my GPz. Ed helped me figure out what I needed for that, and we got pretty close. I think there was one o-ring that took me 2 tries, the others were spot on.
 
Yeah..I mentioned the choke configuration because you have some with the side pulling plungers and the ones with plungers facing upward. So that's what made me think that. Why otherwise would there be two choke cable points..right?
 
It looks like the one with the lever even though mine is missing. There's just a hole that I can stick a screwdriver in. I assumed that both had levers though. Mine is not out of the tank to know if the insides look the same.
Also, if I want to buy the vacuum and fuel line is that #9 and #11?
 
No. One had levers and one did not. The reason is the one with the lever would hit the tops of the carbs and couldn't be switched from on to resereve etc etc.

If yours doesn't have a lever the you get the leverless one.
 
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