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New build 1980 gs850g aussie

Mate heaps of gaskets out there, but I keep reading on this forum to stick with the original or is that just for the head gasket??? Will have to read again. Thanks

OEM for base & definitely for head. I've replaced my head gasket twice. First time with OEM and it held up great. 2nd time with something else??? and I have a minor leak.

It's not the place to save money.
 
Done, once I start on the engine (couple of months time), which will be a top end rebuild, I think I will get the full gasket OEM kit. I like PartShark in US and have tested the water with them and received some parts without any problems. Is $200 too expensive for full gasket kit??????????:rolleyes:


At the moment I have the frame back from powder coaters. I asked if they could cover the compliance plate before sandblasting. No didnt happen, plate is very soft aluminium and got a bit damaged. With reading glasses on the serial number can just be read. :(

They did a good job and covered most threads before painting the gloss black. I only got the frame and swing arm powder coated and all the other parts I am painting my self from the can. :D

Do you think they are the original handlebars? :-k


P1060019.jpg


P1060023.jpg


P1060020.jpg
 
Frame looks nice and clean all PC'ed like that. I like it. And no those are not the original handlebars. They look like they might be a 'daytona' or 'euro' type that is a pretty popular swap around here.The stock bars are taller and have more pull back.
 
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The frame looks great! Kickin' myself I didn't do enough cleaning up of the nuts and bolts while assembling though, those ones that are nice and shiny on yours make the difference.
 
I've a rear rotor you can have. if you decide to have Chuck send you the final drive, I can ship it to him so it can be included with the final drive.

I can get pictures/measurements upon request.

Dale

Thanks Dale, I think I might just take you up on your wonderful offer. Can you send a pic. My rear rotor is below specs I think from memory without going to the shed its below the 6mm min thickness.
ged,

I just measured the rotor. unfortunately it measures .236 at its thinnest point. (6mm = .2362) I'd start looking for another one...
 
This is the info i can give you for the paint.

It is from 3D paint & colour, so you may need to go to one of their shops?

K&H Paint.

Code:
3180 - 5
3700 - 100
3000 - 20
3120 - 200
3330 - 5

this was written on the back of the label by the chick who mixed it.

I hope this helps.

Ill let you know when i get the number for the stickers guy.
 
I have a few spares that I would gladly send South to save our friend's some $$$.

Daniel
 
Frame looks nice and clean all PC'ed like that. I like it. And no those are not the original handlebars. They look like they might be a 'daytona' or 'euro' type that is a pretty popular swap around here.The stock bars are taller and have more pull back.

I think I like the look of them alot flatter then the originals. Tried them when sitting on the bike. Did not ride it when we got it as battery was flat. Took my sons word that it was running. hmmm:pray:

As long as youve got proof it was registered before, an illegible plate wont be a drama.

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/8...stds_ais_codeofpractice_section3a_feb2004.pdf


P.S thats just some random NEW frame you got somewhere,, isnt it? (looks like)

Looks ok, I read the site, I havent got any rego papers but I am sure Dept of Transport would have it on record if providing the VIN number.



The frame looks great! Kickin' myself I didn't do enough cleaning up of the nuts and bolts while assembling though, those ones that are nice and shiny on yours make the difference.

Thanks Pete, every nut and bolt has been wired brushed. I am sure they will corrode back after a while. Not sure why all the bolts have a number 7 stamped on them. I have been replacing some with new Honda bolts and they have a number 8 stamped on them. I am sure there would be some lovely people on this site that would know.

ged,

I just measured the rotor. unfortunately it measures .236 at its thinnest point. (6mm = .2362) I'd start looking for another one...

thanks mate still looking as well. I think partshark has them for about $194 + postage, still cheaper then here. Boulevard Suzuki had the 1 day special and they were down around $135, un bloody believable,

Metalgear has your rear disc brand new for $249...

Nah not this time mate




I wonder if it would fit the 80 850? Have sent a message about condition and thickness. I think rear rotors wear down quicker than the front two, thats why they are hard to find.

This is the info i can give you for the paint.

It is from 3D paint & colour, so you may need to go to one of their shops?

K&H Paint.

Code:
3180 - 5
3700 - 100
3000 - 20
3120 - 200
3330 - 5

this was written on the back of the label by the chick who mixed it.

I hope this helps.

Ill let you know when i get the number for the stickers guy.

Thank you very much, that was what I was looking for. Did you find that this paint was the match or closest match to the original. Cant wait for the sticker info either. You wouldnt mind telling me the price for the stickers would you. Or PM me.

Much better! And at that price that shipping will be fine :)

I have a few spares that I would gladly send South to save our friend's some $$$.

Daniel

Dan PM sent thank you.
 
Mate, being metallic paint, i didnt go too far into what was closest.
i couldnt find an original paint code, but that was scanned off the best side cover i had.
I think the stickers cost me $100, that included scanning, but i doubt they would be any cheaper, unless you didnt want all the colours.
 
I'm pretty sure the number 7 on the bolts relates to the tensile strength of the bolt... so just take care replacing ones like the crankcase bolts that they're at least as strong as the old ones.

If you think the bolts will end up corroding after the wire brush, just stick some Mothers polish on 'em, should keep 'em nice and shiny :)
 
I wonder if it would fit the 80 850? Have sent a message about condition and thickness. I think rear rotors wear down quicker than the front two, thats why they are hard to find.
She'll fit just fine; I already cross referenced it.
 
Polished front wheel, front rotors painted, new wheel bearings, wire brushed tab washers on rotor and now starting to corrode. Sooooooo went shopping at Boulivard Suzuki got some new ones ordered as well as some other goodies during the 3 day sale. Shipping cost only $40 US to Aus land. Most parts are only small rubbers, seals and gaskets. Anything too big costs an arm and a leg in shipping cost. I can see why the US guys just go out and buy anumber of bikes as spares. Not that easy here when not so many are for sale.

P1060030.jpg




Seat pan not good. Enquiries with overseas shipping cost is destroying the fun.

P1060031.jpg


P1060032.jpg


P1060033.jpg
 
Mate nice work on the wheel! Boulevard is worth the effort I find and I also find their shipping costs quite reasonable. Once or twice I've received my parts only to find a higher shipping cost on the parcel than what they charged me, so they're not profiting on the shipping costs either.

Bummer about the seat pan, although it could be salvageable if you're keen...

Mine wasn't quite as bad as that as it didn't have big gaping holes in it, but it was definitely on its way to it.

I got a wire brush into it and scraped off all the big flaky bits of rust so I had a good idea of what I was dealing with, then I coated it in rust converter and let it sit for a while and do its thing.

Once the converter did its work, it looked *heaps* better and after a lick of paint it was good to go...

I'm thinking if you start off the same way you might be able to rivet or weld some sheeting over the big hole there as that's the only stand out issue to me...
 
Ged, what does your foam look like?
As Dale said, I could possibly help you with a pan as long as your foam is good, my foam and cover are dead, so if yours are good, we may be able to get you sorted out.
 
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