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New carb rack needed for 1978 GS750.

  • Thread starter Thread starter tedwoodstrong
  • Start date Start date
T

tedwoodstrong

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Hi! I just picked up a custom 1978 GS750 about 3 weeks ago, and have since taken it to a shop for some starting issues. It seems that the petcock was damaged and was constantly driven on prime, flooding the carbs.

The technician tells me that I need to find a new carb rack entirely, as the screw kits have been assembled far too tightly. Is this a common problem? I'd like to find the parts I need and help to get this baby back on the road, but if I'm wasting money paying for the service I'd rather learn the repairs myself. Just looking for second opinions or tips.

Here's a pic the bike with its custom bobber mods:

http://i.imgur.com/Oc6ABlr.jpg
 
Congrats on getting a bike, too bad you only got part of it. :oops:

You don't need a new rack, you need a new mechanic, ... YOU.
icon_eek.gif


If the tips of the pilot screws are broken in the ports, they can be removed. New pilot screws can be bought. It's possible to do it yourself.

Where are you? One of my might be close enough to help.

.
 
Listen to Steve. Most bike mechanics in this day and age dont know much about our vintage bikes. I am surprised if he works for a dealer they would even look at it. Now im not saying that there are none of those guys left but you are so much better off using the resources on this site and educating yourself. You will be money ahead and fixing your stuff yourself is very rewarding.
 
Heck..If worst comes to worst get with me. I have 5 sets of VM26s here..will need redone with new orings though. You buy the orings ( cycleoprings.com)and send them to me and I rebuild them. YOU send ME your rack as is and I unplug them and throw in my spares bin for future use. Basically you pay for the kit and we swap even up.
 
Here is a great thread with many informative pictures on the procedure. Check it out and ask any questions you may have.

Note that the thinner you can get then point of the tool you use to poke them back down the hole the better. I have used wire coat hanger wire sharpened to a very fine point on the bench grinder. Did 4 carb bodies in maybe 10 minutes total. That was for a member here and he saved himself a lot of grief and money.

NOTE!!! It doesnt take a huge hard smack...that will deform the hole rather badly. Get the tip of the tool on the broken tip or in the hole a tad and give it genlel taps. Youll know when the tip falls out the hole onto the bench by giving it a tap and then look for the tip and to see if its clear. Shining a flashlight down the hole will help. If the tip is in there you should see the brass color stuck there If its not there, shine the light into the hole while looking at the port in the throat of the carb. Should see a faint hint of light coming thru if its cleared.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=82559&highlight=removing+broke+needles
 
Last edited:
Steve said:
Where are you? One of my might be close enough to help.

.
Click to expand...

I'm in Atlanta. The bike's currently in the shop, and I'm leaning toward towing it home and taking the time to learn the solution myself. I've been searching around for repair kits, and would much rather spend the money trying to repair rather than buy an aftermarket carb rack.
 
I did the right thing by coming to this forum. I will most certainly take your advice and get out of the hole while I still can! I know very little about engines, but I am confident in my capacity for learning!
 
Go here and scroll down on page 6...those are the bottom mixture screws you need. Z1 also sell the needles for the KZ 1000 thatb are the same except the end with the slot is longer..so you've got options.

No other hard parts are needed unless you should break a main jet taking them out.

So in summary, get the tips out using the method in the thread. Get the new pilot screws from either source. Go to Walmart and get a gallon can of Berryman Carb and parts cleaner. Get with Robertbarr here on the forum or at his site cycleorings,com and order the VM oring kit and tell him you also want the new drain plug orings.

Dip the carb bodies for a FULL 24 HRS. Take the plastic parts bucket out of the can and you can do 2 carbs side by side in the dip. Spray all the passages out real good with carb spray and lots of compressed air. Once the carbs are done, dip the hard parts for a full 24 hrs also. Take a fine wire ( bread tie, wire from a wire brush ) and poke all the holes out in the pilot jets and be mindful that theres a hole that goes down the center of them as well..be sure to poke it out too. Poke all the holes in the needle jet too. Rinse it all down with carbs spray and air. That's basically it..dipping, lots of rinsing and air, be sure everything is poked and clean..reassemble and bench sync.

Heres the link to the Mega Welcome. Find the VM rebuild tutorial for pics and explanations. Youll be done in a few days and you can go scold the tool at the dealership.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html
 
I'm not sure what a "screw kit" is supposed to be, but everyone else has guessed that it is the pilot fuel screw

And, yes, it's a common problem, so much so that there's a tutorial on BC's site

Bring your bike home and ask us questions. Post up lots of pictures and someone here can point you in the right direction, or even fix it for you, like Chuck offered


If your petcock was flooding the carbs, you need to see if gas got into the oil. Pull the oil filler cap and see if it smells like gas in there
 
Thanks to each of you for your input. I'll be bringing the bike home on Thursday and will have the needed materials by then. Next step for me is to dive into the resources you've all sent me and read them.
 
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