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New coils - still lose 1&4 after bike is hot

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fergie
  • Start date Start date
Havent had time to trouble shoot it properly, but pulled the cover and snapped a few pictures.

2010-06-25164944.jpg

2010-06-25164956.jpg
 
jaysus its the dyna s ignition!!!!
oh this is complicating

not to worry though

some dyna s guys will step in soon
 
as you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.

Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).

So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.
 
as you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.

Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).

So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.
Ok, so where do I put the probes to test voltage? I've tried every surface of bare metal and can't get a reading. Do I need to pull the red wires or remove a part of the dyna?

Thanks,
Gavin
 
Follow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.
 
Follow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.
Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.
 
Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.
That's a gremlin
 
Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.

Is this bike charging. The correlation is notworthy but the only theory for that correlation is the bike can't flash the blinker when the engine is running powering both coils.

Do a little test.

Let bike cool

see if blinkers work with engine off.
start bike on all 4 test blinker again. If it doesnt work
bike off again see if blinks.

You may just have a bad charging.

Do you have a volt meter?
 
Yep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.

On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.

The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.

I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.

Thanks,
Gavin
 
Yep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.

On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.

The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.

I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.

Thanks,
Gavin

Doesnt sound like you are charging. Are you kick starting? A charged battery is at 12.8ish V
 
Is this bike charging. The correlation is notworthy but the only theory for that correlation is the bike can't flash the blinker when the engine is running powering both coils.

Do a little test.

Let bike cool

see if blinkers work with engine off.
start bike on all 4 test blinker again. If it doesnt work
bike off again see if blinks.

You may just have a bad charging.

Do you have a volt meter?

So, didn't get a chance to check the ignition wires today, but did check the blinkers this morning.

The bike had set overnight, and was plenty cool. Turned key to on position, checked blinkers, no go. Started bike and let it run for a bit, all four cylinders were firing....still no go on the blinkers.

Shut the bike off, tired again, still no blinkers. Wiggled various wires around to see if it might be a connection issue, but noting changed.

I'll check things over with a meter tomorrow.

G
 
So I got around to testing things today, and found this jewel after taking off wads of e-tape:
2010-06-27_152107.jpg


So, on to the info and hopefully a diagnosis.

With the bike just sitting there, no key on or anything, the battery voltage is 11.81. When I run the bike at 4000rpm, the VDC is 121.5.

Resistance between stator wires was:
Y-BW: 8.1
Y-GW: 8.1
GW-BW: 7.9

I swapped in a fresh battery and ran the bike at 4k rpm and tested the voltage at the stator wires and it was only about 8v or so, withing a few V at each wire combo.

So this leads me to think the stator is kaput, no?

Thanks,
Gavin

Voltage reading from Dyna at black and white wires was 11.03 on both of them.
 
Hi,

Is the stator completely disconnected?

Are you getting 8 ohms between the stator legs?

Are you getting 8 volts AC?

Keep up the good work.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
It does sound like a bad stator!!! You did check it as an AC voltage output from the stator ??. I would also check the accuracy of your meter.
 
Hi,

Is the stator completely disconnected?

Are you getting 8 ohms between the stator legs?

Are you getting 8 volts AC?

Keep up the good work.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

The stator was completely disocnnected when I did the tests.

The resistance was between the stator legs.

I measured VDC, not AC, so I'll check that tomorrow.

What brank(Ricks, RM, or Electro) would you all recommend for a stator?

Thanks,
Gavin
 
I've got a stator from Rick's on order, I'll double check the Vac at lunch time.

Do you think that a malfunctioning stator could be causing the other electrical issues? As in 1&4 cutting out when warm, the signlas not working when cold, but working when hot?

On my Landcruiser, I had some alternator issues and since the various other electrical components werent getting the required power, it was causing all sorts of other issues...I'm wondering if this is a similar situation.

Thanks,
Gavin
 
Hi,

If the battery is really low the lights and blinkers can act erratically. I'm not saying that it's the cause of your other issues, but you must ensure that your charging system is healthy before other issues can be worked out. You're doing fine. Keep up the good work.

#1 & #4 not firing intermittently could be an igniter or signal generator. Let's get your charging system squared away, then work on the ignition.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
I checked the AC voltage at lunch, and all three leg combos were reading at ~20v.

That is with a fresh battery and the proper RPMs.
 
Hi,

Yeah, that's not really enough output for a stator. It should be around 70VAC.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi,

Yeah, that's not really enough output for a stator. It should be around 70VAC.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Figured as much.

I've based the troubleshooting off your webpage, and will be basing the R&R of it off your page as well!

Thanks for the tech advice.

Once I get this taken care of, I'll report back on the status of the bike.
 
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