New coils - still lose 1&4 after bike is hot

[Fergie]

Those two O/W wires should power your coils.
The last pic look like either the stator wires or the Regulator.

There is a previously installed coil relay mod on the bike; how would the two O/W wires power the coils if the coils are receiving power from the relay mod? Or I am missing the point completely?

 

[Fergie]

Hi,

The picture of your wiring diagram is a little small. But you are correct in that one leg of the stator connects to both the regulator and rectifier. It seems you do have a loop of wire going to a headlight switch. Is there a physical headlight switch on your bike?

I'll study the diagram some more when I get home from work. I'm just about outta here.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Cliff,

Yes, I have an actual switch for the headlight, as well as a High/Low switch for the light.

I've got the combo unit on order right now, but am really confused on the wiring.

As mentioned in a previous post, someone said that the OW wires should power the coils. However, the previous owner's coil relay mod has a white wire that fed the coils directly from the relay; is that correct, or is it installed wrong?

Thanks,
Gavin

 

[posplayr]

Cliff,

Yes, I have an actual switch for the headlight, as well as a High/Low switch for the light.

I've got the combo unit on order right now, but am really confused on the wiring.

As mentioned in a previous post, someone said that the OW wires should power the coils. However, the previous owner's coil relay mod has a white wire that fed the coils directly from the relay; is that correct, or is it installed wrong?

Thanks,
Gavin

It sounds OK but without a schematic who knows. O/W is the OEM color code for the ignition and coil power. There are different ways to wire the coil relay mod. Your PO apparently hacked his harness and ran extra wires directly from the relay output to the coils after removing the O/W wires from coils (+).

The other way to do it is to disconnect the O/W from the output of the start switch ( this can be done in the headlamp bucker for E's) and find some place to power the entire O/W ignition circuit from the coil relay output. This retains almost all of the stock wiring. I power my ignition circuit at the ignitor plug. Coils and ignitor are the only things on the O/W circuit.

As long as the circuit is connected correctly and your description sounds OK (the bike was running right?) should be OK.

 

[trippivot]

but am really confused on the wiring.

or is it installed wrong?

I see the problem . you need some extra ignition coil smoke from a similar bike to put back into your harness.

no seriously, as it drops 1 and 4 can you get 12V reading at both coil small terminals?
that will tell you which direction to concentrate your efforts.

 

[Fergie]

I see the problem . you need some extra ignition coil smoke from a similar bike to put back into your harness.

no seriously, as it drops 1 and 4 can you get 12V reading at both coil small terminals?
that will tell you which direction to concentrate your efforts.

I'm sorry, I don't follow; extra smoke?

I need to focus on getting my wiring straight before I get back to the troubleshooting portion. In my haste to troubleshoot and fix things, I've just confused myself even more, and mucked up my wiring harness!

 

[trippivot]

yeah smoke!!

there is a little cloud if it inside any electrical device

 

[Fergie]

yeah smoke!!

there is a little cloud if it inside any electrical device

Gotcha...a little levity for a stressful situation wouldnt be bad for me!

 

[trippivot]

laughter is good medicine- next to a california prescription for "smoke"

LOL

 

[trippivot]

just kidding on the last smoke joke

 

[Fergie]

True, but what I really want, more than to be relaxed, is to get my bike back together.

I maybe have an hour's worth of riding time on it, and I want it fully functional to use as my commuter so I can put my LC in the garage for some work.

This wiring thing has me the most concerned, so hopefully these knowledgeable folks like Chef, Posplayr and Cliff can get me squared away and up and running!

 

[Fergie]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

 

[Guest]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

Starter solenoid.

 

[posplayr]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

That is the solenoid. You will notice the Y/G wire that is coming from your start button on the right hand control. The solenoid is activation coil is grounded to it's own case so you have to make sure that side plate to grounded to frame/battery negative or your starter will not turn over.

That thin little wire on the right hand bolt securing it carries all fo the R/R return currents ; that is an OE design flaw. See my thread on grounding to improve things.

Personally would get a Honda R/R from Duanage and get rid of the combo R and R.

 

[Fergie]

That is the solenoid. You will notice the Y/G wire that is coming from your start button on the right hand control. The solenoid is activation coil is grounded to it's own case so you have to make sure that side plate to grounded to frame/battery negative or your starter will not turn over.

That thin little wire on the right hand bolt securing it carries all fo the R/R return currents ; that is an OE design flaw. See my thread on grounding to improve things.

Personally would get a Honda R/R from Duanage and get rid of the combo R and R.

The Duaneage unit is on order, and I've already started on the grounding issues, per your write-ups.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, a combo r/r unit from Mr. duaneage will simplify your wiring issues.

After removing the separate regulator and rectifier you can connect the three stator wires directly to the r/r input wires. The red output wire from the r/r (which is the same as the red output wire from your current rectifier) will go through that 15 amp fuse and to the battery positive. The other two wires on the duaneage r/r unit will be "ground" and "sense". The ground wire (probably green) will get connected directly to your battery negative and the sense wire will connect to a switched 12v source, usually the tail light near the brake switch.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Fergie]

Well, got everything, save those two O/W wires back together, and the bike is running properly(just a quick start up to make sure).

Took some time with the voltmeter and testing continuity to find out what went where, but got it done! I even got the wires from the stator to the R&R done properly!

I've got to sort out those two random O/W, but while the bike was running, they both had 12v to them, so I am thinking they should be the coil returns coming from the handlebars, is that correct?

 

[posplayr]

Now, on to the coil debacle.

The red wire on the right side of the splice connector run from beneath the tank area, back to the relay near the battery:

The white wire with the splice connector on it ran to the coils. There was another splice connector at the end to split the wire to the two coils. I removed the splice at the end, and put on one new connector. The small red wire is coming from the Dyna unit.

I then wired the black wire from one coil and the white wire from the other coil in to one connector, and connected this to the white wire:

I then wired the two orange and white wires from each coil into one connector, and connected those to the orange and white wire below(second one in from left):

I have no clue what the other three wires are for, or if I have mine done correctly.

Here is the other *fun* part to this all...I'm really really red-green color blind, so bear with me if I call things out incorrectly.

So where have I screwed the wiring up? What more info do you need? What needs to change?

Thanks a TON.

Gavin

looking at these pictures it appears as if the PO took the brute force approach to wiring. The coil relay mod and the DynaS. What that means is they avoided the OE wiring (which are now not connected to anything) and ran additional wires from the Dyna and the coil relay.

That means that you will have a spare pair of O/W wires near the (+)coil as well as the spare W and B which were the (-) sides for the coils

 

[Fergie]

Definitely took the brute force approach. I left most of it in place tonight, but when I re-wire the new RR in, I intend to take care of the coil relay mod the right way.

After tonight, I only have the left-over o/w wires, the B and W going to the Dyna have been resolved properly.

 

[Guest]

Sounds like you finally had your moment of clarity.

 

[Fergie]

Sounds like you finally had your moment of clarity.

Somewhat.

We'll see how it goes once the RR is here.