New GS650 Owner. Wanting to Mod. but not sure what I need.

[82'GS650]

Here is a pic of my new old 1982 GS650L. Is is a GL?
I was wondering what you guys suggest getting for a jet kit. I am just looking to do individual intakes and a 4 in to 1 exhaust or maybe the Mac 4 in to 2 turn out. Any light you can shed will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Your best option on jetting is a Dynojet kit. Fiddling around with various jets will just get you frustrated and cause you to go back to stock. Seriously, the Dynojet kits are a known commodity that has proven to work. The part number is: 3310

 

[Grassigrass]

I just ordered the dynojet kit for my 82' GS650GL along with K&N pod filters. Im very interested to hear what you've got planned for your bike along with pictures throughout the process. Nice Bike!!!

 

[82'GS650]

Thanks guys! I will look in to the dynojet kit.
Grass Ill keep you in the loop as long as you do to haha.

 

[82'GS650]

When you install the dynojet kit is there a lot of setting to be done? or is it just install and go.

 

[Grassigrass]

Ive never installed a jet kit before. my carbs are in pieces right now. I dipped them and cleaned all the nooks and crannies because they were super clogged. But i do know that installing a dynojet kit is going to be a long and tedious process. there's all sorts of factors to take into consideration and no 2 bikes are the same. but on the other hand there is a lot of info especially on this site that can help you narrow your search. just search around, but make sure you start from the bottom before you go and start making modifications to the bike (actually clean the carbs, check valves and adjust if needed... that fun stuff) i will keep you in the loop for sure. Im also new to this but message me anytime if you have a question and ill try to answer to the best of my ability. Welcome!

 

[JTGS850GL]

Ive never installed a jet kit before. my carbs are in pieces right now. I dipped them and cleaned all the nooks and crannies because they were super clogged. But i do know that installing a dynojet kit is going to be a long and tedious process. there's all sorts of factors to take into consideration and no 2 bikes are the same. but on the other hand there is a lot of info especially on this site that can help you narrow your search. just search around, but make sure you start from the bottom before you go and start making modifications to the bike (actually clean the carbs, check valves and adjust if needed... that fun stuff) i will keep you in the loop for sure. Im also new to this but message me anytime if you have a question and ill try to answer to the best of my ability. Welcome!

You don't know what you're talking about. The Dynojet kits are VERY predictable. Stage I through III are very well defined. Pod filters with a 4-1 exhaust is stage III. No guess work.

 

[tkent02]

Depends on how much of a perfectionist you are.

 

[Guest]

Several replies later, nobody has answered your other question.

Here is a pic of my new old 1982 GS650L. Is i[t] a GL?

Yes, it is a GL.

The clues:
Chrome fenders (front and rear)
Chrome headlight shell (and smaller light)
Leading-axle forks
Higher handlebars
Smaller, teardrop-shaped tank
Stepped seat
No bodywork covering the tail light
Shorter mufflers

Nice looking bike. :encouragement:

 

[82'GS650]

Ya I suppose a person could tinker and get it perfect. Im sure one would just have to adjust the blend bolts to get it to run. But ya I did some research and the stage three is the way to go. Thank you phydeauxmitt! Haha The sucker only has 8400 miles.
phydeauxmutt

 

[Guest]

One thing to keep in mind is that the headers that are on the bike now are double walled. The 4 into 1 pipes have single walled headers and will discolor no matter what. Unless you get them ceramic coated on the inside. I installed the Mac 4 into 2 by cutting the pipes off, welding a sleeve on and installing the slip on Macs. I also had to pick up a reducer sleeve and some packing. There is a cover shield plate on your bike as well. I installed everything, figured out the placement of the nut assemblies, and spot welded them on. The original exhaust is dimpled to accommodate the rear axle nuts. The Mac cans are not dimpled but they sit about 1/4" from the axle nuts. The Mac cans that I bought have a sliding bracket and I had to modify the original mounting plate a bit. The sliding mounting bracket is important as it keeps everything rigidly in place. Nice looking bike you have there.

 

[Rob S.]

You don't know what you're talking about. The Dynojet kits are VERY predictable. Stage I through III are very well defined. Pod filters with a 4-1 exhaust is stage III. No guess work.

They may be predictable, but I know there's tinkering involved. The racer/builder who jetted mine on a dyno told me, "No two bikes are the same."

Depends on how much of a perfectionist you are.

I think it's so sad that many guys are riding bikes that are not totally dialed in, and that's not even their goal anymore. I'd find it hard to live with a bike that didn't pull all the way to redline without a stutter.

But I guess any bike is better than no bike.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

Looking at the bike now, I see a lot to unbolt, cut down, replace and adjust, before I'd jet the carbs.

Unbolt: windshield, handle bars, front forks, seat, grab bar, rear shocks and signal lights.
Cut down: the high part of the seat and upholster it.
Replace: forks and front wheel with something that has dual discs. Sport handle bars, front springs, rear shocks, and signal lights.
Adjust: all the new stuff you've bolted on, and the carbs too.
After all that's done and you're used to it, replace the exhaust system and jet the carbs.

 

[82'GS650]

Bill when you say front springs they have a set that can get rid of the oil and air?

 

[Buffalo Bill]

HA!!!!
Boy, you need to read a book.

 

[82'GS650]

Thanks, Ill look in to that.

 

[Grassigrass]

You don't know what you're talking about. The Dynojet kits are VERY predictable. Stage I through III are very well defined. Pod filters with a 4-1 exhaust is stage III. No guess work.

thats not what I was talking about.. I was referring to the actual jetting that needs to be tinkered with. If you go on dynojet's site; they only offer the stage 3 jet kit for the 82' GS650. But yes. Pod filters and a 4-1 exhaust would be a stage 3 even if dynojet offered the first 2 stages on their site.

 

[Guest]

Bill when you say front springs they have a set that can get rid of the oil and air?

Can't quite get rid of either of them, but good springs will do most of the work. Your original springs have been compressed for well over 30 years, so will be a bit shorter than intended, meaning they are not as strong as when new. There are progressively-wound springs and straight-rate springs available. There is also air that is trapped when you close the top of the tube. No practical way to eliminate the trapped air, but there is also no need to add any additional air. Since the spring rate of compressed air is progressive, using progressively-wound springs adds to the overall rate in a manner that might be unpredictable. Using straight-rate springs minimizes this effect. The oil that is in the fork is for damping. Without oil, the wheel would keep bouncing when it hits a bump. It just controls the motion. A lighter-weight oil lets the wheel move a bit freer, while a heavier-weight oil makes it harder to move.

In very basic terms, the spring rate will control how MUCH the wheel moves, the oil viscosity will control how FAST.

 

[82'GS650]

Can't quite get rid of either of them, but good springs will do most of the work. Your original springs have been compressed for well over 30 years, so will be a bit shorter than intended, meaning they are not as strong as when new. There are progressively-wound springs and straight-rate springs available. There is also air that is trapped when you close the top of the tube. No practical way to eliminate the trapped air, but there is also no need to add any additional air. Since the spring rate of compressed air is progressive, using progressively-wound springs adds to the overall rate in a manner that might be unpredictable. Using straight-rate springs minimizes this effect. The oil that is in the fork is for damping. Without oil, the wheel would keep bouncing when it hits a bump. It just controls the motion. A lighter-weight oil lets the wheel move a bit freer, while a heavier-weight oil makes it harder to move.

In very basic terms, the spring rate will control how MUCH the wheel moves, the oil viscosity will control how FAST.

Oh thank you. I would have to break down the forks completely to replace the springs. The right oil seal is leaking so maybe thats a good idea to do.

 

[Dave8338]

Bill when you say front springs they have a set that can get rid of the oil and air?

Welcome to the site. Don't worry about little billy-boy, he likes to talk a smart game...

You have a nice looking bike. The L's are my favorite of the GS bikes but some think they have to bad mouth the L, guess it makes them feel important. As for anything you might need help with information wise, I'll be happy to help.
Keep in mind, I like mine stock and running PERFECTLY, likely better than they did new.

Again, welcome to the GSR