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New GS650G Owner with ?'s

  • Thread starter Thread starter Raxus
  • Start date Start date
R

Raxus

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Hey all, great site!

Just bought a '81 GS650G last night. The bike is in pretty good shape but we couldn't get it to start. It turns over good, but she just doesn't want to pop. Has spark..and gas. Previous owner said he had the carbs cleaned 2 years ago. Hmm..he did say that it sat since July of '06, tho I wouldn't think that would be a prob with gas would it? Before that he said it always started and never had a prob.

Also in a related question..what kind of spark plugs should I get? What is the gap for them to be at? I am a total newbie to bikes so please bear with me. I ordered a shop manual from Ebay just a coupole of hours ago, so no help with that for a few days. Any and all help would be much appreciated!


Rax
 
if it's been sitting since july '06 the gas in the carbs will either have dried up and turned to dust residue or if it kept moisture in there would be a nice goopy molasses looking substance... Pull the carbs and have a look at em...

Heck if I leave my bike in the unheated garage over the winter (2 - 3 months) I gotta pull the carbs and at least give em a quick once over...
 
Welcome!

Welcome!

A few suggestions if you're really new to these bikes,

- to get my 650 to start I usually have to give it full choke.
- when it had been sitting in the garage for several weeks I had to set the petcock to 'prime' for a couple of minutes to get fuel into the carbs before it would start. (NOTE: When having sat for awhile, I almost always start it while the battery is still on the charger, cranking it takes some pretty good power outa the battery and the charger help kept it up to full strength).
- depending on where you live, not sure from your post if you have put fresh gas into the tank or if its June 06 gas still in there. If not stabil-ized you may have to drain it all out.
- might not be a bad idea to go a bit higher with octane for the first tank?
- check your air filter once you get the starting issue resolved. It probably needs a wash an some air filter oil.

-if that all fails, then I'd pull out the carbs. If you do get it started I'd run some fuel system cleaner through with the first tank.

I'd also take a good look at the tires to see if they need replacing.

Lots of other stuff but just my 2 cents.
 
Sparkplugs: NGK D8EA gapped 0.6 -0.7 mm (0.024 -0.028 inches)

One other tip to try, lightly blow air into carb vent hoses that go over the air plenum that connects air filter box to carbs. You will have to pull one of these hoses up from rear. Air blown in displaces gas from bowl into carb throat and usually will make bike start quicker. It is easier than it sounds and works great for my finicky dirt bike.
 
Thanks guys, she started right up with choke and setting on prime! Just wanted her to start and get warmed up. Next thing I want to do is change oil. Also the clutch is pretty stiff, what can I do to loosen it up? (I ordered a new clutch cable just in case) Any other suggestions I should do? Am also wanting to change plugs. BTW the tires are in excellent shape, so that was a blessing.

OH..any ideas on where I can get an owners manual? I see one on EBay but I am kinda dubious about that one. The one that came with my bike is pretty ratty.


Rax
 
congratulations on the new bike!

check the clutch again after you change the oil, as the clutch might be bathing in old filthy oil (the oil is essential to proper clutch actuation, i believe). if it is still stiff you can probably adjust it via the crankcase end of the cable. on my GS450, there is a cover held by two screws on the crankcase and you can adjust the clutch in there. basically slack the cable all the way out on both ends and adjust the screw within the 10mm nut in until it JUST hits the plunger (you'll feel it) then another 1/4 turn. the rest of the slack can be adjusted via the cable at the crankcase. the manual you buy will tell you for sure, and it is extremely easy. and those on here better informed with your bike specifically can correct me if that is not right!

you can get a Clymers manual for fairly cheap at any chain motorcycle shop or amazon.com. usually about $20-30 used, in the AUTOMOTIVE section for some reason. or ebay, of course.
 
Thanks for the tips! I already have the shop manual ordered for the bike. Just would like to get my hands on an original owners manual for easy quick reference.
 
My bro-in-law is coming over today to take a look at my new baby and help me with some oil changing. Got me to thinking..should I change out the brake fluid? If so, how do I go about doing that?

Rax
 
Brake inspection

In order to change the brake fluid open one of the bleeder valves on the caliper and put a plastic tube on it into a container. Brake fluid is nasty. It stains concrete, eats asphalt, and removes paint.

Open the master cylinder cover and slowly pump the brake lever while adding fluid. Do NOT allow the reservoir to go dry or you will get air in the lines.

When the fluid runs clean tighten the bleed valve and do the other side.
Bleed the brakes by closing the bleeder while aplying pressure and pumping up the lever. Do both sides to get the best handle. Bleeding is a skill, works better with two people.

The rear is easier. On the center dtand check the pads and make sure the caliper swings back when the lever is operated. Look for missing safety wires and there should be a dust cap over the caliper to protect it. Your looking for 3/4" of free play in the pedal, although the brake light should come on if a mouse steps on the pedal.

This would be a good time to inspect the brake pads for wear and make sure the calipers are not sticking. The rear brake lever goes through the frame and it sometimes rusts up. I would remove it and clean/grease the pivot. I have seen two bikes where the lever hung up and kept the rear brakes on, ruining the rotor and wearing the pads out.

Inspect the lines and banjo blts. If they are cracked or swelled replace them, no matter the cost. Stopping is not optional.

Last, look at the master cylinder rubber boot and make sure no fluid is leaking past where the lever operates it. This can cause a bypass problem and sponge brakes.

Front rotor is 4.5 mm minimum, most are just under 5 mm. The rear is 6 mm and most are around 6.5mm today.
 
Raxus said:
Thanks guys, she started right up with choke and setting on prime! Just wanted her to start and get warmed up. Next thing I want to do is change oil. Also the clutch is pretty stiff, what can I do to loosen it up? (I ordered a new clutch cable just in case) Any other suggestions I should do? Am also wanting to change plugs. BTW the tires are in excellent shape, so that was a blessing.

OH..any ideas on where I can get an owners manual? I see one on EBay but I am kinda dubious about that one. The one that came with my bike is pretty ratty.


Rax
Click to expand...

You can order a book from www.motorbookstore.com and get it in 4 to 7 days.Change your oil and filter soon.You can get spark plugs and oil filter at just about any auto parts store plus check your battery and make sure it's in good shape.A bad battery will give you all kinds of mystrious problems to try to solve.This is a very good bike and you will enjoy the heck out of it.All around good bike for speed and handling and gas mileage! I ought to know,I have one too!Also clean and re-oil your air filter These are the best things to start with on any bike .Any other questions, you know where to come!
 
What type of brake fluid should I get? Any brand recomendations? What little I have of an owners manual does not say. Just for a refresher it's for a 1981 GS650G..thanks!


Rax
 
Raxus said:
What type of brake fluid should I get? Any brand recommendations? What little I have of an owners manual does not say. Just for a refresher it's for a 1981 GS650G..thanks!


Rax
Click to expand...

Whatever is new and from a sealed container. Any DoT 3 or 4 will do just fine. Some will tell you to get only DoT 4 with a brand name, etc. Nonsense. Been using cheap DoT 3 for 21 years of GS ownership, changing it every year, or two at the most. Never a braking problem of any kind.
 
DOT 4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 fluid. More expensive too. Couldn't hurt if you are going to ride the bike hard but a waste if you aren't.
 
In order to go DOT4 you have to purge DOT3, I would not mix the two. Your not going to notice a difference with DOT4 anyway.
 
UM..I just got the bike and have no idea what he used for brake fluid. Do I need to do some special procedure to flush out the system before putting DOT 3 in?


Rax
 
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