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New guy, any ideas or thoughts on rewiring?

  • Thread starter Thread starter metalist25
  • Start date Start date
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metalist25

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I am new to this forum but not bikes, I have a 82 gs 850 which I bought for 300$ and it had the whole wirin harness pulled apart. My project I going to be a rat rod, so I figured I would start from scratch and wire just what I want. So my question is what do you guys think is the most refined or simplistic way. I am a automotive tech so I have lots of supplies.
 
Go to BassCliff's website here and grab the wiring diagram for the 80 850G. Eliminate anything you are not going to have (such as turn signals and associated components) and see what you have left.
18 gauge wire is fine for most of the wiring, except for high current items such as the starter circuit, R/R output and headlight.
 
AFA what?
Perhaps a list of what you wish to leave wired up, and a list of what you wish to eliminate?
You will need your charging system and your ignition system just to run.
Everything else could be optional.
 
koolaid_kid said:
AFA what?
Perhaps a list of what you wish to leave wired up, and a list of what you wish to eliminate?
You will need your charging system and your ignition system just to run.
Everything else could be optional.
Click to expand...
This pretty much sums it up. Since youre in automotive tech, you should be good at reading wiring diagrams. My suggestion, which is in other words of what Koolaid said. Is to build your bike with what you want on it. Then youll know what you'll be eliminating. But IMO what is electrical that your not gonna be using? Most of the things are needed in most states per the law..
 
So, to further clarify:
You'll need a way to switch it off/on. That could be a rocker switch.
You'll need a brake light. Most operate on both the front and rear brake.
You'll need instrumentation lights and a tail light.
You'll need a headlight. I suggest one with a high/low switch. By law it must always be on.
That will make you legal.
 
If you search there is a thread called "minimal 550 bobber schematic" it is a stripped down no light schematic you can add your lights to
 
koolaid_kid said:
You'll need a headlight. I suggest one with a high/low switch. By law it must always be on.
Click to expand...

Not in my state. "Always on" is only required for motorcycles built after 1986. Before that, it can be off.

Not that I recommend leaving it off - the law is for safety. But just sayin'

Hell, PA doesn't even require turn signals either.
 
O.K., so that could be a rocker switch as well. Depending on where he lives, which we have no clue.
 
Hey guys I have noticed that the stator has three wires that are all black and wanted to know the reason and how it must hook up to the r/r
 
metalist25 said:
Hey guys I have noticed that the stator has three wires that are all black and wanted to know the reason and how it must hook up to the r/r
Click to expand...

You should read The Stator Papers on the main site. The fact that all three stator phase wires are going to the r/r means your bike has been fixed against the charging system problem that GSs had.
 
The wire sheathing is black because it is an aftermarket stator. That is, it has already been changed at least once.
 
Ok because I was line how do I figure out to hook them in the correct order
 
There is no order. Electrically they are identical. 3 stator output wires connect to 3 R/R input wires.
 
So I turn it's like a car alternator which has a regulator and converts the ac current to dc current but one direct line. But the stator has three identical lines/ output!
 
Any idea how to bypass the turn signal module because I am not using any of the old electronics, or will the system work with just the relay?
 
metalist25 said:
So I turn it's like a car alternator which has a regulator and converts the ac current to dc current but one direct line. But the stator has three identical lines/ output!
Click to expand...
This is how our system (and alternators as well) works. There is a 3 phase AC output (from the stator in our case). This is rectified into DC. (That is the rectifier part of a Regulator/Rectifier.) This DC voltage is then regulated to be ~14.5 volts (or less, at lower RPM) to prevent overcharging the battery or frying DC components. This is the Regulator part of the Regulator/Rectifier.
In an alternator, there is an R/R internal to the alternator, which also converts the AC voltage into DC, so the output is pure DC (with an AC component, which we ignore). In our bikes, this is done external to the stator. There are minor differences between our system and an automotive alternator, but they are unimportant to this discussion.
 
metalist25 said:
Any idea how to bypass the turn signal module because I am not using any of the old electronics, or will the system work with just the relay?
Click to expand...
Just unplug it and remove it. The system will not care if it is present or not.
 
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