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New member, new 'old' bike

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi all,

I just received a 1978 GS1000 for free. It took me awhile to load it and unload it, but I got it.

The biek does not run, it's been sitting in the previous owners backyard for a year at least but not 2. It was in Ottawa, Canada, so it experienced an unprotected winter.

I am trying to find out what should I do first about this bike. It looks to be in good enough condition with a little TLC to get it back on the road. There's little rust, and the forks and frame look straight.

What should I do?

T.I.A.
 
I think you should give it to me!! I love projects like that. I would prefer that you pay the shipping but if you insist I guess I could spring for the shipping charges. WHAT???? What did you expect me to say?

What you do will depend on two things in general (no pun intended). Why the bike doesn't run and how much you know about bikes and /or mechanics in general (still no pun intended).

First: Is the engine seized? A lot of old bikes that are allowed to sit out in the weather for extended period so THAT is the first thing to determine before spending any of your hard earned cash. If the engine is not seized and all the parts seem to be there, make sure there is oil in it, before hooking it up to a battery and cranking it over. What you do from there depends on whether the engine is seized or will turn over.

More info needed!!

It may be a gem or it may be a parts bike but regardless of that, the price was right.
 
When I was trying to load or just move it around, I couldn't get it into neutral!!

However, because the bike was in gear, and was extremely hard to move does that mean that the engine is not seized or just that my clutch is stuffed?

Second, everything looks like it's their. There's even gas (probably not good anymore) in the tank. All the body peices are there, stock exhaust, stock everything.

How can I test for a seized engine if can't get it in neutral?
 
It is unlikely that the clutch is stuffed but its hard to tell from where I am. That would not be my first suspicion. Check to make sure the clutch cable is not adjusted too tight. There should be a little play in the cable. The gearboxes tend to stiffen up especially after prolonged sitting. You should be able to get it into neutral if you sit on the bike and rock the bike forwards and back while pressing down a few times rather sharply on the shifter lever. This may or may not produce a clunking sound from the gear box. Once you have determined that it won't clunk any more times going down, you will probably be in first gear. Now while continuing to rock the bike forward and back reach down with your left hand and pull slowly but firmly up on the shift lever. A gentle click means your now in neutral and the bike should move freely. A larger clunk may mean that you have gone right through neutral into second gear. Once you are there you can put a battery on it to see if it turns the engine over. If the back wheel was turning reluctantly without the clutch pulled then you were trying to load it my guess is that it isn't seized. If it's seized the wheel goes nowhere unless the clutch lever is pulled.
 
If bike ran OK, within the past two years, getting it going shouldn't be a big deal. Definitely oil change, new gas, & a lot of chain lube Probably a good carb cleaning and a new battery. Possibly a couple of sets of breaker points (or convert to electronic ignition). You never know, but less than two years, engine shouldn't be stuck. We expect to hear you have it running, within the next few weeks. Good luck
 
Get those cilynders wet!!!!!
Pull the spark plugs and squirt in some oil. An ounce or two will do. let it sit for at least a day. My choice for this is ATF. Seems the tranny fluid is real good at un-sticking rings and loosening gummy stuff. You can do some damage to the cylinders and rings if your turning the motor over dry.
I don't know how mechanical you are or how much you know so I'll cover some basics.
Drain the tank and carbs. Go to a Yamaha dealer and get Yamaha fuel system cleaner. You'll mix it with gas to use when you try to start it.
Get new plugs and battery. Don't even try to mess around with the old ones. Don't try to jump start the bike with a car. This would be bad.
Unplug all the electrical conectors and inspect. Clean off any corosion and reconnect. Do one at a time, that way you can't mess up.
Check to see what's under your air filter cover and in your airbox. Carbs don't work well with mice sucked into them.
Put in the battery and see if it'll crank. If it does, stick your finger in each of the spark plug holes and see if you have compression. If not add more oil and crank again. Hook up a new spark plug and ground it while cranking to see if you have spark. Once you verify compression and spark, you can put the new plugs in.
Now put some gas/cleaner mix in the tank and set the pecock to prime or put vaccum on the port and see if gas flows. If it does, install the tank and put in about a gallon of gas mix. Open that petcock again and then open each of the carb bowl drains to make sure they're getting gas.
If all went well, it should start right up. But you'll still have a lot more to check. Brakes are pretty important, and change the oil, and the points...
Steve
 
rphillips said:
Possibly a couple of sets of breaker points (or convert to electronic ignition). Good luck
Click to expand...



You may want tp look at ebay under "gs1100" , they have an electronic points convert (titled 'electronic ignition') that may fit your bike, and would solve alot of problems with points.
 
I got a free 78 GS750 last fall. It had been sitting outside for almost three years. I removed, disassembled, and cleaned the carbs, replaced the plugs, drained and refilld the tank and it started great. I have since been doing some appearance mods, and I am going to go replace the mufflers today. I'm having a blast with this project. Good Luck!

Bob
 
Please do keep us posted on how things go for you with the bike.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for the awesome points. I've done cars before that have been sitting for years, but this bike is slightly different.

In looking at the bike, I think I'll just replace the chain, tires, rims, exhaust, battery, and plugs. Everything else I'll try to clean-up and see if it can work. I won't be able to spend any time on it until the spring though. It's too cold to work on it without a garage. Plus my car needs to be e-tested.

Should I get the Haynes manual or is there something better?
 
Get as many different manuals as you can. None of them (nor even all of them together) contain everything you will want to know. The manuals will contain most of the specs but are often severely deficient in other area. The carb adjustments (ie. pilot mixture screw adjustments) are often inadequate in the manuals so when you tear down your carbs for cleaning be sure that you note the exact existing settings before removing these screws. This will increase the chances of the bike actually starting when you reassemble the carbs.

Your biggest resource will be the brain trust on this site.

Regarding check for engine seizure: Like Wheelie says, remove the plugs, put a couple of tablespoons of oil or ATF into each cylinder, put the bike into neutral. Remove the points set cover (chrome cup over the right end of the crank). Once in there, you can use the larger hex-nut type thing to turn the crank in a clockwise direction. (don't use the smaller hex nut as it may twist off) If at this point you still don't have it in neutral you can at least visually see if the crank turns while rocking the bike forward and back while in gear.
 
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