New member with a few questions for ya.

[Anonymous]

Hi there guys and gals of the GSResource! I have been lurking here since September when a friend of mine gave me a 1978 GS750. I had been pestering him to sell it to me for a while, but then he called me and just offered it to me. A few things about me.....I have a 1988 convertible Corvette which I am constantly trying to modify for speed and performance. I also have a 1969 Ford Bronco which I am in the midst of converting to fuel injection, and a 1972 full sized Bluebird schoolbus. I work as a welder/fabricator and custom woodworker from my garage when I am not earning a living as a whitewater rafting guide and kayak instructor. I just got back from a great trip to Costa Rica to learn to surf, an awesome trip. I have spent a total of about 20 mins on a motorcycle in my whole life. about 10 mins on a budy's dirt bike when I was 15, and about 10 mins on a Honda 450 going around my VERY quiet block in 1995. As a result of this inexperience I want to keep this bike pretty stock for now as I learn to ride. I want to take care of immediate needs to get this running well, and then work on upgrades to brakes, suspension, etc. Any suggestions for a plan of mods, or reactions to my comments below is welcome.

Now on to my questions about bike. It was parked by my friend almost three years ago when the clutch cable broke. I finally have gotten around to working on it and in the last three days have done the following:

1) removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and re-installed carbs.

2) Flushed brake lines. Boy were those front lines full of NASTY stuff!

3) I pulled the plugs, but other than being a bit dark seemed in pretty good shape so I left 'em in.

4) Changed the oil and filter

5) Cleaned and lubed chain.

6) When I removed the foam air filter from the housing to clean and re-oil it I saw that it was essentially falling apart. I have seen the individual cone-type filter conversions and heard that they would require a carb jet change. I have also seen a chrome filter housing that holds a single rectangular paper element filter. Would this require a jet change? I would rather leave this bike totally stock for now due to my motorcycle inexperience.

The bike came with a Vetter fairing which I have removed, thinking that it would be easier to learn to ride on a lighter bike that I can see the front tire. The fairing is pretty cracked, but holds together, if anyone wants parts and can come get them they are yours. Perhaps I could mail some small ones if you pay me the shipping. I need to get a headlight and turn signals on the front. I was thinking about going and getting a pair of small halogen driving lights and mounting them on a home fabbed bracket with the turn signals. I know the GS charging system is notoriously weak, would these new high power lights be too much of a draw? Has anyone done this? Or would I be better served to get a standard automotive headlight with replaceable halogen bulbs? Does anyone have any headlight ears they can part with?

Well that seems like enough for now. The main issue is getting an air filter that will work well with my carbs? Any suggestions about that and other issues are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Bob

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Everything sounds good. I would think about new tires also. I would also get the original air filter. It's about $30 depending where you buy it. but it is washable and will last a long time. Unless you have lots of time to play with the jetting to get it right.

 

[Clone]

You can get a headlight bucket that takes a halogen bulb for less than $50. They are black plastic with a chrome ring, glass, relector and bulb. They will mount into any stock ears, does your bike have ears? You can also pick up some signal stocks for about $15. I would try to match the rears or replace all four. I wouldn't use an auto light, I've seen it on a few bikes and in my most humble opinion they look like a hack job.

 

[argonsagas]

Safety consideration for you


This is not to rain on anything, but if you are getting rid of the fairing in order to see the front wheel/tire, your thinking is off a bit.

Not only do you not need to look at the front tire you should NOT look at it while riding.

Admittedly, riding the first time with a fixed fairing is different, but you will adapt to it quickly.

Also admittedly, looking at the front tire is a common mistake made by novice riders, as they are unaware that they have a huge need to focus elsewhere. Once the bike is moving, your attention needs to be elsewhere.

You should be watching what is well ahead of you, NOT looking at your front tire.

Apart from where you are going, you must be constantly attentive to everything else around you, and be aware of what is in fron, beside and behind you. You cannot do that and observe the front tire.

Your twin lamps would work on the front, but might be too much amperage draw for your system. None of the GS systems has a lot to spare, but some have less, and it only goes down from there as dirt and corrosion take their toll on every connection on the bike. Driving lights would also not give you the mandatory high/low beams most states and provinces demand.

 

[Anonymous]

On the airfilter...you can get a Unifilter brand foam filter for your bike from Dennis Kirk for about 15 bucks. it is superior in every way to stock. It breathes better, and will fit pefectly. It doesn't require rejetting like a pod conversion would.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I got it run yesterday. I drained the gas tank and put in new gas, spent a bunch of time cranking and using starter fluid. The bike started, but won't idle. When I removed the needles and jets I carefully screwed them down, counting the turns and put them back in the position they were in. I have used the idle adjuster to get the bike to idle at about 1200 rpm. It doesn't like going under that. A friend who has owned many motorcycles took it for a cautious spin around the neighborhood and said it seems pretty good. The fork is VERY soft, I am going to check and replace the fork oil. It seemed like there a cylinder that was not always firing, and if I spray the header with water one of the pipes is clearly no where near as hot as the others, but when I pull the plug wire for that cyilinder it motor barely runs, so it must be firing at least a little. THe points look very worn, so I am going to replace them. I am also going to pull the plugs and see what they look like now that the engine has run and been driven a bit. Any tuning suggestions would be great. Now since it runs, it is time to shop for a helmet and a "Motorcycles for idiots" class.

Bob

 

[Hap Call]

Now since it runs, it is time to shop for a helmet and a "Motorcycles for idiots" class.

Bob

Bob,

If you have the sense to get a helmet and go to a motorcycle class, that tells me that you are anything but an idiot...maybe deranged for hanging out here but definitely not an idiot! :wink:

Welcome my friend to our sick world!
Hap

 

[Anonymous]

Bobs' new ride!!!!

Bobs' new ride!!!!

Hey ya Bob!
Doing all the right things from what I can tell!
Not to get down on ya or anything like that but you may yet still have some clogged up carbs...

Have you picked up a service manual yet.....don't bother with anything but a factory manual...you may have to pony up more but they are far better than the alternatives.
I DO see where you are coming from about the being able to see the wheel....Its' more open without that goofy fairing anyway.
Give us all a picture or two when your up & running..OK?
Rick......
(P.S. I did the headlight conversion as noted and it does work wonders)

 

[earlfor]

Bob, you can get a Clymer book for the 750 fours 1977-1982. The book number is M-370. It isnt as thorough as a factory manual, but it is more than sufficient for the things you basically need to know. The factory manuals can be difficult to come by. I have a 79 750E, so we have the same bike.

Change the fork oil to 30 weight non detergent. It will make a major difference in the fork stability and dampening. It takes 6 ounces of oil in each fork. The drain plugs are at the bottom on the side of each fork. You will need to remove the fork caps on the tops of each fork for the old oil to drain. Let them drain for about 10 minutes as it takes a little while for all of the old oil to drain out. You refill at the fork caps.

That the bike will not idle even on three cylinders says something is not quite right as mine will idle with two spark plugs disconnected. The settings for the carbs: fuel pilot screw (underneath the carb and protrudes outside the float bowl) VERY gently turn it all the way down and then back out 1 5/8 turns. Air screw: (on top of the intake between the carb and air filter) VERY gently turn all the way in and then back out 1 turn.

The correct air filter (amount of restriction) must be installed as the bike will not run properly with a filter arrangement that noticably flows air more freely. (with stock jetting) This is one of those times when more is NOT better.

Your bike was manufactured with points. Assuming the ignition is stock, you will need to set the ignition timing. (points wear resulting in timing changes and they also pit causing sporadic firing of the plugs) There are two sets of points mounted on a breaker plate under the right crankshaft cover (round cover that says Suzuki on it) remove the point sets (NOT the plate theyre mounted on) Note that the wire on the left set is white and the right set is black. Each will also have a condenser wire. The wires are held in place by a small bolt. There is an insulator on this bolt. Be sure to reinstall the wires in exactly the same way. There is a screw on the points holding them down...remove it. Lift the points out.
check the point surfaces to be sure they are flat and smooth. There can be no high spots/spikes on the mating surfaces. File any raised spots off with a fine file and dress/polish the points with #1000 wet/dry paper using soapy water. Rinse points under faucet. Blow dry. (hair dryer works well...dont tell wife you have it Reinstall points. The points breaker plate (big round plate aprox 7" diameter) has three mounting screws located at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. Loosen them. The 12 o'clock screw is in a slot. Rotate breaker plate until the screw is centered in the slot. Tighten all three screws locking breaker plate down. At the 12 o'clock position, there is a timing window. The timing marks are F1--F4, and F2--F3. F1 is the no advance mark for the left set of points. F2 is the no advance mark for the right pointset. You will see F1| The line is the set mark. There is a line/arrow on the engine case that this must be aligned with. Take a 19mm wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you see the F1| marked on the advance counterweight aligned with the arrow on the crankcase. If you pass the mark, go around again. Do not back up.
With the F1| aligned, loosen the mount screw on the left point set allowing it to close. Insert a .0015 feeler guage (1 1/2 thousandths) between the points. Gently snug down the mount screw on the pointset. This should result in a gap of less than .001 Use a continuity light to check setting. Clip lead of light to battery NEGATIVE terminal. Touch the tip of continuity light to the bolt that retains the black wire and condenser wire. If there is a gap, the light should be on. If you press the point contacts together VERY lightly, the light should go off. The setting is correct when you can open the points with your finger (and then release them)and the light stays on and you can press the points lightly together with your finger (release pressure)and the light stays off. The points must "break" on the F1| mark.
Next, rotate the crankshaft 180 deg and repeat this for the right set of points. You will set the F2| mark aligned with the same arrow on the crankcase. Static timing is complete. (NOTE..the arrow on the crankcase is located at aprox the 11:45 o'clock position. ) If you do not have a crankcase arrow (my bike does not), The crankcase timing mark is a point 1/8" to the left of the left edge of the 12 o'clock screw head on the breaker plate.

The black and white leads that supply positive power to the point sets are plugged into two connectors located under the left side cover. These two connectors are in turn fed from the coil neg terminals. Check the connectors for corrosion.

If your points sets are held in place by a single mounting screw, they are ND (Nippondenso) points. If they are held in place by two mounting screws, they are Kokosan points. Condensers are the same for either set.
I buy my points from Cycle Recycle online. They are at
http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/interest.htm
You will need to order right and left sets. If your points are the two mount screw Kokosan type, let me know. I have new sets of those that I have no use for and will send them to you for free.

Earl

 

[Anonymous]

Isn't it all Just fun.. Have you been to Ebay.com Anything you ever wanted in life is there for sale uncluding any part for your bike, as long as you have the funds. Yes, get rid of the fairing. Also, regarding your cold exhaust pipe.. Did you syncronyze your carbureators?? Just a thought. Yes get a manual.. even a cheapie version is well worth it and check your tires.. Do they have cracks around the sides?? If so replace them... You can get a cheap (but new) set of tires for $80 or so for the pair... Welcome to motorcycling.. Too much fun

 

[argonsagas]

On your carbs, my guess is number 2 (2nd from left side) is off.

Let us know, please.

If you stay on the Forum or a while, you will see an occasional disagreement between members. Not to worry....we all stay friends.

No question about the need for tire replacement if you see the rubber broken, but I cannot accept the idea of installing something just because it is cheap.

Two infallible rules:

1-Literally everything your bike does depends entirely on your tires

2-You get what you pay for


See Earlfor's posting about cheap tires in the rain.

 

[earlfor]

Re: Bobs' new ride!!!!

Re: Bobs' new ride!!!!

I ride a bare bike and even so, the instrument cluster blocks my being able to see the front wheel unless I stand up.
I have occasionally ridden through some curving road standing up, but its tiring. In any event, forget about the front wheel.
You will never see it when youre riding. Your focus will usually be about 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road anyway.

Earl

[quote="Richard Ellis"
I DO see where you are coming from about the being able to see the wheel....Its' more open without that goofy fairing anyway.

 

[Anonymous]

A cheap (less expensive) set of new tires is far far better than riding on old ones waiting to save the money for the Dunlops or Metzlers.. Just my opinion on the topic... Variety is the spice of life... Owning more than one bike if the spice of riding... JOE

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the welcome an the great input guys! I am going to go try to do a static timing. I tried yesterday using the Clymer Manual, but I couln't get continuity to break across the points. I'll try again using your instructions.I am going to get new points soon, but I'll go give a try with the olds ones, just to get some practice. It's been years since I fiddled with points. Also the bike currently has no air filter installed. I have a Unifilter ordered at a local parts place. I know that this is contributing to the rough running right now, I'll let ya know how it runs when I get the new filter installed. Also the mufflers are pretty rusted, one is pretty much hollow, so I assume that that has a considerable effect on the engine's tune also. Once I get the new parts on, I am going to have a shop sync the carbs for me. Happy Super Sunday!!


Bob

 

[Anonymous]

You can get a halogen bulb for your stock headlight. I put one on my the 750 last summer, boy what a difference! No problem with pulling extra current to date.
When I got back into riding after a 15 year break, it was on the 78 750. New tires was the best money spent, not that I bought expensive tires, but they do help in gaining confidence. Have fun, be safe

 

[Anonymous]

Sadly, I don't have a stock headlight. There is no light on the bike right now, also I need to get turn signals, as the stock ones are broken.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

Parts

Parts

Say Bob you may try this place. I found it when I was looking for a new tail light. This guy has darn near everything. I hope this helps. http://www.oldkawman.com/gsparts.html

 

[earlfor]

I've bought a lot of stuff from these people and they are great to deal with.
They stock turn signals, headlights, halogen bulbs, vesrah pads and LOTS of goodies for the GS's.
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

Earl

Sadly, I don't have a stock headlight. There is no light on the bike right now, also I need to get turn signals, as the stock ones are broken.

Bob

 

[Anonymous]

no break in continuity

no break in continuity

Just a suggestion....had the same problem with my bike, and I determined that the wires running from the points to the coils were shorted. One half shorted in the main loom that runs under the tank, the other shorted down where they make the turn to go to points, on the underside of the engine. Left the main loom half along and just made a new "two wire harness", and then made a new section to snake down behind and underneath the engine to the points. Something to check. Good luck, and have fun,

Ryan
-----
mueller@xta.com

 

[Anonymous]

OK guys here is today's update, not much good news.

I did a static timing using Earl's post, which was MUCH more clear and easy than the method in the Clymer. However, the bike still didn't want to start. I think new points are in order, but the ones in there don't look that bad.

I adjusted carbs per Earl's advice, still won't start.

I went to the parts place to get the Uni filter I ordered last Thursday. It was the wrong one. I bought some bulk filter foam and made a filter, gluing it together with silicone. I then reassembled airbox.....bike still won't start. Even with ether.

I am going to go get new plugs and go from there. During today's efforts at starting I pulled the plugs and it seems that they were getting pretty wet with gas. Well, three of the four were, #2 was not as wet, sometimes not wet at all when #1 seemed soaked with gas.

I drained the forks and filled with ND30. This made a HUGE difference in the way the fork moves. It used to feel as if there was no damping at all, depressing 4-5 inches just by leaning on it, now it is much more firm.

The brake light switch was not working at the front lever, I disassembled cleaned and reassembled. Now the brake comes on, but won't go off. I can't seem to adjust the switch to go on early enough in the squeeze and still go off when the lever is released. I put a flat washer between the lever and master cylinder and it is ok now, but not great.

It is coming together, but I am a bit disappointed that it started on Friday after a lot or trying and a lot of ether, and then started very easily on Saturday, but won't start now. Sometimes it seems like it is trying, but it just won't quite catch. Thanks for the help, You have all been very helpful. I am going to try and trace the ignition loom and make sure there are no shorts or very dirty connections.

Bob