New OEM size sprockets and chain, chain too long?

[scott]

I bought a new chain and sprockets for my 1980 GS550E in the stock size from Z1 (15T / 50T / 530-110 ). I have the new sprockets installed (not torqued down) and the chain laying on the sprockets. With the rear wheel all the way forward, the chain seems very loose. I think I could remove at least 2 links and still have enough slack.

Should I have to cut off links if I'm using stock sizes / no conversion? I was assuming it should start off close to the correct tension with the wheel all the way forward so there would be the most room for adjustment as the chain stretches.

If I do need to shorten the chain, I have a Dremel that I used to cut off the old chain. Will I also need to get a chain breaker to remove the extra links?

 

[Guest]

I bought a new chain and sprockets for my 1980 GS550E in the stock size from Z1 (15T / 50T / 530-110 ). I have the new sprockets installed (not torqued down) and the chain laying on the sprockets. With the rear wheel all the way forward, the chain seems very loose. I think I could remove at least 2 links and still have enough slack.

Should I have to cut off links if I'm using stock sizes / no conversion? I was assuming it should start off close to the correct tension with the wheel all the way forward so there would be the most room for adjustment as the chain stretches.

If I do need to shorten the chain, I have a Dremel that I used to cut off the old chain. Will I also need to get a chain breaker to remove the extra links?

Well for one, your chain is going to real loose if you have the wheel all the way forward. Before you do anything, just tighten up the sprockets some, though not torqued down and pull the wheel back and start adjusting it to specs. Then see how much adjustment you have left and go from there. Just taking out one link can make a big difference. This way you'll know for sure if you need to shorten the chain or not. "Measure twice cut once"

 

[scott]

I should have said: the rear sprocket is installed, torqued down and the washers bent. The wheel is installed with the shocks in place but not tightened (since I'll have to remove them again to torque the axle nut) and the axle nut is hand tight but not torqued. The wheel is slid forward in the adjuster "slots".

These pics have the chain with 2 links "out":

The front sprocket is hand tight.

Not sure how to show the slack in the chain but ... even with the 2 links out I'd have to tighten it some with the adjusters.

It sounds like you're saying this is normal and that I'll be good if I install it without removing the links. And using the chain adjusters will take up all that slack and get it into spec with room to adjust when it stretches. I would have thought that would be the case since I ordered the stock sizes but it just seems like a lot of slack.

 

[earlfor]

Leave the chain as is. The adjusters are for adjusting. LOL The axle is not supposed to be all the way forward anyway. Also, the maximum adjustment within the stretch limits of the chain specifications is approximately one mark on the adjuster scale on the swingarm. Just slide the axle back until the chain tension is about what it should be and then fine tune the tension and alignment with the adjusters. Adjust the chain tension to about 1 1/4" play above and below the chain on the lower run.
You should be able to move the lower chain run about 2 1/2" up and down total when done. You MUST have slack in the run.

 

[Guest]

You know what's really weird though, your back foot pedal looks like a throttle grip.

 

[Guest]

I should have said: the rear sprocket is installed, torqued down and the washers bent. The wheel is installed with the shocks in place but not tightened (since I'll have to remove them again to torque the axle nut) and the axle nut is hand tight but not torqued. The wheel is slid forward in the adjuster "slots".

These pics have the chain with 2 links "out":

The front sprocket is hand tight.

Not sure how to show the slack in the chain but ... even with the 2 links out I'd have to tighten it some with the adjusters.

It sounds like you're saying this is normal and that I'll be good if I install it without removing the links. And using the chain adjusters will take up all that slack and get it into spec with room to adjust when it stretches. I would have thought that would be the case since I ordered the stock sizes but it just seems like a lot of slack.

I just installed my new 530 chain, I had ordered it with 120 links and I had to remove 3 links for the adjustment to be right.

The way I figured it out was push the wheel all the way forward, wrap the chain around both sprockets then pull the chain as far around as you can get it and see what link lines with the open link hole. Then take a zip tie and tie them together and check your slack by pulling the wheel all the way back, if you run out of the adjustment slots, your chain is still too long, When I got finished with mine I have about 1 inch of adjustment slot at the front which leaves me plenty to adjust with, When I push the wheel all the way forward there was maybe 2 inches of slack in the chain. It doesn't take to many turns of the adjustment screws to get it set right.

I just ground off the tip of the rivets where they were flush with the outside link to shorten my chain, then used a punch and the link was off. Oh yeah, save the orings never know when ya might need one.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Personally, I would shorten the chain. You have plenty of slack with those two links out of the way. Otherwise, you can run it like it is and be prepared to shorten the chain once it stretches a bit. Your call, it is your bike.

 

[scott]

Thanks for all the tips guys.

The way I figured it out was push the wheel all the way forward, wrap the chain around both sprockets then pull the chain as far around as you can get it and see what link lines with the open link hole.
Then take a zip tie and tie them together and check your slack by pulling the wheel all the way back, if you run out of the adjustment slots, your chain is still too long, When I got finished with mine I have about 1 inch of adjustment slot at the front which leaves me plenty to adjust with, When I push the wheel all the way forward there was maybe 2 inches of slack in the chain.
It doesn't take to many turns of the adjustment screws to get it set right.

Ok - I put the chain on the sprockets using the full length of the chain and used a zip tie. While it seemed extremely loose with the wheel all the way forward, I tightened the adjusters and at just over 4 marks from the back, the chain has about 1" of slack (from rest, pushing up).
At 4 marks, it definitely felt too tight.

Also, the maximum adjustment within the stretch limits of the chain specifications is approximately one mark on the adjuster scale on the swingarm. Just slide the axle back until the chain tension is about what it should be and then fine tune the tension and alignment with the adjusters.

If at most I should expect "1 marks" worth of stretch before it needs to be replaced, with 4, it sounds like I have enough adjustment room without removing any links. From what I remember the old setup had about 4 marks as well so that would make sense since I'm using stock sizes.

Personally, I would shorten the chain. You have plenty of slack with those two links out of the way. Otherwise, you can run it like it is and be prepared to shorten the chain once it stretches a bit. Your call, it is your bike.

It seems like I'm ok without shortening but is there an initial chain stretch that I'm not accounting for?

You know what's really weird though, your back foot pedal looks like a throttle grip.

I'm planning to impress the neighbors by having my wife do a handstand as we ride down the street I assumed they were stock but couldn't say for sure.

 

[tkent02]

T


It seems like I'm ok without shortening but is there an initial chain stretch that I'm not accounting for?

No, a decent quality chain on new sprockets shouldn't stretch at all for many thousands of miles.