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new reg/rec here I come

mvalenti

mvalenti

Forum Mentor
Just performed the quick chaging test and failed....  11.8 at idle and headlamp off... 12.4 at higher revs not climbing much higher than that Voltage wise..<br><br>I have an incandescent headlamp, led turn signals, and an incandescent tail light. Is there any relation to coil performance and a poor charging system? In other words can one see any more power in a properly charging system as opposed to one pulling of a slowly dying battery? I sprung for the dynamic coils and ignition last year, and just replaced the battery with an AGM.
 
Before you order an R/R, verify your stator is putting out enough, too.

Testing it is relatively quick and easy, unless you have soldered the wires from the stator to the R/R.

.
 
I did test the stator to ground and between each leg and that tested fine. I didn't test output of stator though.
 
The static electrical checks that you have done will do nothing to verify the strength of the magnets and their resulting effect on the stator windings. Run the engine at 5000 RPM, check the AC voltage between all three pairs of stator leads. I think most of the manuals call for at least 75 volts, but it's more important that they are all about the same.

.
 
Will do.. this should be easy as I have spade connectors on the stator. all other wiring connections on the bike are solder shrink.
 
Do VAC leg to ground tests at 5000 they have the highest success rate.
 
Times like this I want the stock exhaust back....

Looking on ebay, seems stator range new from 48bucks to over 100... if it comes down to it what is the opinion as to make/vendor? I seem to recall discussions based on Rick, we're good....
 
Last edited:
Before you get into what and where to buy, verify the volts AC from each leg to leg at a "moderately high" RPM since you don't have a tach. It's not that critical that you measure the voltage at EXACTLY 5000 RPMs. Anywhere above 3500 will get you in the ball park. Just make sure you disconnect the R/R from the stator during the test. You might also want to measure the voltage from ground to each leg. Should measure close to zero.
 
JTGS850GL said:
Before you get into what and where to buy, verify the volts AC from each leg to leg at a "moderately high" RPM since you don't have a tach. It's not that critical that you measure the voltage at EXACTLY 5000 RPMs. Anywhere above 3500 will get you in the ball park. Just make sure you disconnect the R/R from the stator during the test. You might also want to measure the voltage from ground to each leg. Should measure close to zero.
Click to expand...


If you could only do one test, that is the one to do. Or in other words, it is the best test and does not rely on a precise RPM to give a proper answer, only a high RPM to better test the insulation breakdown.
 
:-[Have just resistance tested the stator....

1-2 .9 ohms
1-3 OE
2-3 OE

1 phase was 8v @ idle rising to 20v when revved
other phases....nothing

Stator is stuffed.

Battery is:

unloaded 12.3v
main switch on 12.07v
headlight on 11.7v

more tests to come because the Reg is brand new..... or maybe the stator fried it too...

Can anyone clarify how to do the ground to leg test.
Is this a AC volts test because thats how i got the above figures

 
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