New regulator, voltage too high?

[BigMattyD]

I just replaced my failed regulator with a used one from a GS450 that I bought on Ebay.

I have already followed the testing procedures to determine that the original r/r was defective, and that the stator was okay. In fact, all three leads were putting out over 70 volts at 5000 rpm. When I got the new regulator, I tested it per the diagram in the stator papers, and it passed all the regulator tests.



I attached the new regulator, making sure the connections were tight and that the grounds were good. At idle to low rpm, the bike produces normal voltage, but as I rev the engine higher, the voltage rises to a peak of 16 volts. None of the connecting wires get warm, but the regulator itself gets warm to the touch in 1 minute, and hot to the touch after 2 minutes (in the garage with no airflow.)

I am wondering if the voltage peak could be a normal condition, perhaps if I had a poor battery? What else could cause the voltage to go high? I hate to think I wasted my money on this regulator, but it was about 1/4 the cost of a new one. If this doesn't work, I'm trying a honda...


I am using a good quality digital multimeter which is performing normally. I do not question its accuracy. When I tested the voltage drop on the positive and negative wires to the battery, the voltage level was supposed to be below 0.2 volts, and mine was about 0.01 volts, so I think the connections are secure.

Please help if you can.

Matt

 

[earlfor]

Re: New regulator, voltage too high?

Its normal for a R/R to momentarily exceed the the 14.9 volt limit when you first twist the throttle. When you hold the throttle at 5K rpm, the R/R should adjust and drop the voltage to 14.8 or less in about 1-2 seconds. If it maintains a voltage higher than 14.8, it is faulty. (probably nurned out transistors). Its ready for the trash can if it holds a level higher than 14.8 v. The higher voltage will shorten the life of your headlight and other bulbs, boil the battery dry causing increased electrical system resistance, and more heat. It will also eventually cost you a new stator too.

Earl

I just replaced my failed regulator with a used one from a GS450 that I bought on Ebay.

I have already followed the testing procedures to determine that the original r/r was defective, and that the stator was okay. In fact, all three leads were putting out over 70 volts at 5000 rpm. When I got the new regulator, I tested it per the diagram in the stator papers, and it passed all the regulator tests.



I attached the new regulator, making sure the connections were tight and that the grounds were good. At idle to low rpm, the bike produces normal voltage, but as I rev the engine higher, the voltage rises to a peak of 16 volts. None of the connecting wires get warm, but the regulator itself gets warm to the touch in 1 minute, and hot to the touch after 2 minutes (in the garage with no airflow.)

 

[duaneage]

If the battery is not the problem I agree with Earl that it is toast. I would recommend the Honda Mod.

I love the idea of a shaft drive 450 automatic, let me know if you ever want to part with it. :wink:

 

[BigMattyD]

How long can I run the bike with the system at 16 volts?

I would like to run my bike over to the shop to get it inspected tomorrow, and I know I will not have a new r/r by then.

It's about a 15 minute ride, each way, and I'm afraid to go without the regulator running, because you never know how long the charge on the battery will last.


Matt

 

[earlfor]

I dont know how I can be accurate with an answer. For a 15 minute ride over and 15 back, plus an inspection, you're probably talking 45 minutes.
16 volts will blow out bulbs and boil a battery. You will probably be OK for that short a time. Realistically, the system could fry at any time.

Earl

How long can I run the bike with the system at 16 volts?

I would like to run my bike over to the shop to get it inspected tomorrow, and I know I will not have a new r/r by then.

It's about a 15 minute ride, each way, and I'm afraid to go without the regulator running, because you never know how long the charge on the battery will last.


Matt

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you want to try it I would NOT ride it that way If you must disconnect the regulator & just run it off of the battery. The likley problem with the 450's is that the ignitor will burn up when running on 16 volts

 

[frosty5011]

I'm running into the same problem here. The R/R (Electrex) on my 850 died - would not charge the battery at all any more.

Did the stator papers check, stator passes with flying colors, the R/R did not.

I ordered a CX500 r/r off of ebay. Hooked it up as follows:

3 yellows from r/r to 3 stator wires
1 green from r/r to ground (battery neg.)
1 red from r/r to the original red connector on bike (battery pos.)
1 black from r/r spliced to rear tail light connection (supposed to connect to a wire that is live when ign. is turned on)

During idle, the bike is fine, low 14's, but when revved to around 5k, voltage goes up to almost 18 volts. Figured I got a bad r/r off of ebay (regulator portion seems to be shot).

Even tried with the black wire from the r/r hooked up directly to the battery (+) terminal, no change.

Was able to obtain a r/r from a Goldwing yesterday. Hooked it up as follows:

3 yellows from r/r to 3 stator wires
2 greens from r/r to ground (1 to battery neg, other to solonoid ground)
2 reds from r/r to original red connector on bike (battery pos.)
1 black from r/r spliced to rear tail light connection

Again, identical results as with the CX500 r/r. It will charge up to around 18 volts. Also tried putting the black from r/r directly to battery (+), again, no change.

What are the chances of getting two bad r/r's in a row?

Is there anything else which might cause this, such as something else on the bike being miswired? I really doubt that anything is connected wrong, everything else works flawlessly.

Could the stator be putting out too much voltage for the r/r to convert into DC? I do get over 100 volts AC when revved up in the 5k-6k range. The voltage across all 3 yellows is always consistant, they all seem to be identical (although this is somewhat difficult to check when revved if - you kind of need 3 hands.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Do you have a brown wire ?? hook it up to the taillight instead of the brown.
I would also try a different meter, what does your meter read on the battery with the bike off

 

[frosty5011]

Well, you got to give credit where credit is due

I would've never thought that my #$*&^@# *&&$ @#$%#+&* ^%&$@! *&$^% ^$&%*^%& piece of shit multimeter would have gone bad. OK, it isn't the best of them, but nevertheless a Craftsman multimeter (roundabouts $30).

I had an old cheap $10 multimeter somewhere in storage, popped a fresh battery into it and tested, sure enough, it reads lower. Tried the Craftsman again on AC current, shows my house as having 145 volts AC 8O 8O 8O 8O , my cheapo shows 120.

Put the original CX500 r/r back on the bike, checked it while running (revved up to 5k), shows a beautiful 14.8 volts.

*&#%^$ %&*&#@!% Craftsman! :!: :!: :!:

Thanks Lynn - I guess sometimes you just need to see things from a different perspective. I just never thought to doubt the multi-meter, since it did serve so good in the past (only about 3 months old).

 

[focus frenzy]

Well, you got to give credit where credit is due

I would've never thought that my #$*&^@# *&&$ @#$%#+&* ^%&$@! *&$^% ^$&%*^%& piece of #### multimeter would have gone bad. OK, it isn't the best of them, but nevertheless a Craftsman multimeter (roundabouts $30).

I had an old cheap $10 multimeter somewhere in storage, popped a fresh battery into it and tested, sure enough, it reads lower. Tried the Craftsman again on AC current, shows my house as having 145 volts AC 8O 8O 8O 8O , my cheapo shows 120.

Put the original CX500 r/r back on the bike, checked it while running (revved up to 5k), shows a beautiful 14.8 volts.

*&#%^$ %&*&#@!% Craftsman! :!: :!: :!:

Thanks Lynn - I guess sometimes you just need to see things from a different perspective. I just never thought to doubt the multi-meter, since it did serve so good in the past (only about 3 months old).

ROFLAO!!!!! Sears just don't make them like they used to.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

OK!! Now get out their and go riding :lol:

 

[frosty5011]

As thanks for your pointing me in the right direction, Lynn, you now have a 3 month grace period, where I will NOT pick on you.

Might not seem like much, unless you happen to hang out in the "Off-Topic" or the "By Special Invitation" sections of the forum........there it could come in pretty darn handy!!!

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: