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New Ricks Stator and Regulator and still issues...

  • Thread starter Thread starter dezlpwr
  • Start date Start date
nejeff said:
Another stator, R/R saga on the forum, damn near more argued around here than tires or oil...

I run an 80' GS850G, original equipment R/R's, stator unknown (maybe original, maybe not) 77,000 miles, 20K with me on it no issues

My son's 83' GS850G, replaced with Caltric stator & Duaneage Honda R/R kit, 2 years later no issues

Have replace a couple other R/R's with used SH775's, no issues


Not sure what kind of R/R Duaneage's kits were but he has had excellent results over time and the SH775 series type R/R's have had excellent results over time here with forum members.
I have no idea what any of it means anymore...
Click to expand...

I am pretty confused myself. There seem to be tons of SH775s out there and many imitations as well. How do I know I am getting the right one. I've already ****ed away $120 on the Ricks R/R. I have no interest in ****ing away any more $$$. How do I hook up the SH775? Looks like it takes modification.
 
dezlpwr said:
The prices have obviously gone up since 2014...  I did not wire the r/r directly to the stator. Not sure how to do that? Just not connect anything to the factory wire harness? 
Click to expand...


He sent you a link for a $25 SH-775????
 
dezlpwr said:
The prices have obviously gone up since 2014...  I did not wire the r/r directly to the stator. Not sure how to do that? Just not connect anything to the factory wire harness? 
Click to expand...

Used ones like $45 bucks or so
 
Triumph part number T2500676

Get one of those used Polaris RZR units for $45 shipped.

Take your stator wires and connect them to the input wires for the R/R. Bypass the bikes harness.

Take the power output from the R/R and feed it into the red wire feeding your fusebox. Take the R/R ground straight to the battery. That's as simple as I can make it.
 
Nessism said:
Triumph part number T2500676

Get one of those used Polaris RZR units for $45 shipped.

Take your stator wires and connect them to the input wires for the R/R. Bypass the bikes harness.

Take the power output from the R/R and feed it into the red wire feeding your fusebox. Take the R/R ground straight to the battery. That's as simple as I can make it.
Click to expand...

Thank you! Even an idiot like me can do that. 👍👍
 
Nessism said:
Triumph part number T2500676

Get one of those used Polaris RZR units for $45 shipped.

Take your stator wires and connect them to the input wires for the R/R. Bypass the bikes harness.

Take the power output from the R/R and feed it into the red wire feeding your fusebox. Take the R/R ground straight to the battery. That's as simple as I can make it.
Click to expand...

Who knows he mighty even get away without frying a harness ground.TWT.
 
tom203 said:
It's ok, just not great.. Sometime measure what you get at battery after startup- this is when the battery needs the most recharging.Above 14v would be best and then it might taper off as battery is refreshed. This is how mine behaves...( I use an onboard meter)
Click to expand...
That's what I said to the OP, maybe my wording wasn't correct?

I'm no electrical guru, but isn't 13.7v charging your battery? Shouldn't the regulator just give the battery what it needs? I think normal battery voltage is around 12.8v so I would hook up your voltmeter to the battery when it's not running, then fire up the bike and see what it's putting out. I would think that would be when it will be sending a higher voltage to recharge after the draw from the starter, then after a while see if it lowers to what would be needed to maintain the battery. I'm thinking anything between 13.5 and 14.5 would be a normal range for above idle to 5k which is around cruising rpm for most bikes, readings below or above would be when I'm concerned.
Click to expand...
 
dezlpwr said:
Thanks for the replies. I will be doing some more testing today when I have someone else available to assist me. Some of these tests require two people, and I was by myself last night. If it does turn out to be a bad R/R, this makes me a little leery of Rick's products and their reliability and quality control. I paid $120 for their "Hot Shot" regulator and IF it turns out to be DOA, my confidence in their products will be low. From the research I did prior to purchase, it seems like people have been generally happy with their products. I will keep everyone posted.
Click to expand...
If it is a bad or defective product, don't write Ricks off on just one bad item. I've heard they stand by their products.
 
posplayr said:
Ground to SPG-Single Point Ground (or not)
Click to expand...

What is this foreign language you speak of?
I ordered the used Polaris R/R on EBay from the link and a triumph wiring harness. Anything else I need?
 
gsrick said:
Just read closer. ;)



It would be a point on the frame that all ground wires are secured to.
Click to expand...

The same point that I was told to avoid and mount directly to the negative terminal of the battery? 😳
 
If your battery has been grounded to the frame, which it should be, then it is really doing the same thing. You're basically turning your frame into a big wire. Some components like ignition coils, starters, starter relays don't have ground wires, so the ground goes through the frame directly or through the engine case then to the frame. What I think they are implying is the a direct ground to the negative post, will eliminate a possible bad ground through the frame. Everything electrical has to have a path back to the negative side of the battery, this would just be shortening the path.
 
gsrick said:
If your battery has been grounded to the frame, which it should be, then it is really doing the same thing. You're basically turning your frame into a big wire. Some components like ignition coils, starters, starter relays don't have ground wires, so the ground goes through the frame directly or through the engine case then to the frame. What I think they are implying is the a direct ground to the negative post, will eliminate a possible bad ground through the frame. Everything electrical has to have a path back to the negative side of the battery, this would just be shortening the path.
Click to expand...
Guess what , the current does not return to the battery unless the battery is the source . When you are charging the battery cannot be the source!!! The R/r is the primary source so how does current get back to it?? What is the best way?? See the SPG configuration I described in gs charging health.
 
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