New Ricks Stator and Regulator and still issues...

[dezlpwr]

Sooo, wanted to eliminate electrical issues and installed a brand new battery, Rick's stator and their upgraded hot r/r and I am still having issues. After install of everything, voltage was not too bad, 13.0v at idle, 13.7 at 2500, and 14.0 at 5000. Wasn't too happy with that but much better than 12.4 at all RPM prior. Now after a 30mi ride I am seeing 12.4 at idle, 13.0 at 2500, and a max voltage of 13.7 at 5000 or higher. Could it be my connections? Used plenty of dielectric grease. Some of the bullet connectors seemed a little loose so I crimped them down a tad and made sure all were tight. I'm at a loss that it was at the bottom end of OK after install and now the voltage seems to be dropping off to unnaceptable levels. I am hard pressed to believe I was sent a bad stator and R/R from Ricks but who knows... Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[posplayr]

Did you look at the stator pages?

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Start: Look at Phase A to measure the voltage drops.

If nothing there then: Look at Phase B to test the stator especially leg to ground.

 

[Guest]

I'm no electrical guru, but isn't 13.7v charging your battery? Shouldn't the regulator just give the battery what it needs? I think normal battery voltage is around 12.8v so I would hook up your voltmeter to the battery when it's not running, then fire up the bike and see what it's putting out. I would think that would be when it will be sending a higher voltage to recharge after the draw from the starter, then after a while see if it lowers to what would be needed to maintain the battery. I'm thinking anything between 13.5 and 14.5 would be a normal range for above idle to 5k which is around cruising rpm for most bikes, readings below or above would be when I'm concerned.

 

[Steve]

Technically, yes, 13.7 will charge the battery, but it's more a matter of how well it charges the battery.

Anything over 12.8 will keep it from running down, but it won't be building the reserve that it really needs to survive.

To properly charge the battery, you need sufficient voltage to reverse the chemical reaction that takes place in the battery, and you really need to have over 14 volts for that to happen.



DEZLPWR, it's nice that you used dielectric grease, but please keep in mind that it does not necessarily enhance any poor connections.
Its purpose is to coat the metal so that it does not oxidize, which will destroy a good connection.
You need to have clean, tight connections, then protect them with the grease.

.

 

[dezlpwr]

Did you look at the stator pages?

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Start: Look at Phase A to measure the voltage drops.

If nothing there then: Look at Phase B to test the stator especially leg to ground.

I did look through the stator pages thoroughly. I do not believe the stator is the problem. 60v AC per leg at 5000rpm... Bad "new" R/R?

 

[posplayr]

I did look through the stator pages thoroughly. I do not believe the stator is the problem. 60v AC per leg at 5000rpm...  Bad "new" R/R? 

60VAC at 5K RPM sounds like the stator is going out. With that few of miles, that R/R was probably bad at conception.

Get a SH775. See GS Stator in my signature.

 

[posplayr]

I'm no electrical guru, but isn't 13.7v charging your battery? Shouldn't the regulator just give the battery what it needs? I think normal battery voltage is around 12.8v so I would hook up your voltmeter to the battery when it's not running, then fire up the bike and see what it's putting out. I would think that would be when it will be sending a higher voltage to recharge after the draw from the starter, then after a while see if it lowers to what would be needed to maintain the battery. I'm thinking anything between 13.5 and 14.5 would be a normal range for above idle to 5k which is around cruising rpm for most bikes, readings below or above would be when I'm concerned.

The Quick Tests defines a set of acceptable voltages for various tests conditions. The purpose is to diagnose potential issues with teh charging system; there are characteristic signatures (voltages at each test) associated with various failure modes.

 

[posplayr]

Technically, yes, 13.7 will charge the battery, but it's more a matter of how well it charges the battery.

Anything over 12.8 will keep it from running down, but it won't be building the reserve that it really needs to survive.

To properly charge the battery, you need sufficient voltage to reverse the chemical reaction that takes place in the battery, and you really need to have over 14 volts for that to happen.



DEZLPWR, it's nice that you used dielectric grease, but please keep in mind that it does not necessarily enhance any poor connections.
Its purpose is to coat the metal so that it does not oxidize, which will destroy a good connection.
You need to have clean, tight connections, then protect them with the grease.

.

Yep, lathering dielectric grease over corroded contacts won't do anything. OP said he tested according to the stator pages but never saw any mention of voltage drops from Phase A.

 

[Guest]

Maybe I'm just hard headed, but about 6 months ago I asked about the findings I was getting with a GSXR600, which is very similar to what the OP is stating. 13.8v at 5k was acceptable then, why not now?

 

[tom203]

Maybe I'm just hard headed, but about 6 months ago I asked about the findings I was getting with a GSXR600, which is very similar to what the OP is stating. 13.8v at 5k was acceptable then, why not now?

It's ok, just not great.. Sometime measure what you get at battery after startup- this is when the battery needs the most recharging.Above 14v would be best and then it might taper off as battery is refreshed. This is how mine behaves...( I use an onboard meter)

 

[posplayr]

It's ok, just not great.. Sometime measure what you get at battery after startup- this is when the battery needs the most recharging.Above 14v would be best and then it might taper off as battery is refreshed. This is how mine behaves...( I use an onboard meter)

Without applying a subjective label, I note that the Battery charging at 13.8V at 5K RPM is 0.7V below R/R factory specifications as measured at the R/R.

The main questions are:

Why is it so Low?
Should I expect it to get any better?
Is being low doing any damage?

 

[dezlpwr]

Thanks for the replies. I will be doing some more testing today when I have someone else available to assist me. Some of these tests require two people, and I was by myself last night. If it does turn out to be a bad R/R, this makes me a little leery of Rick's products and their reliability and quality control. I paid $120 for their "Hot Shot" regulator and IF it turns out to be DOA, my confidence in their products will be low. From the research I did prior to purchase, it seems like people have been generally happy with their products. I will keep everyone posted.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks for the replies. I will be doing some more testing today when I have someone else available to assist me. Some of these tests require two people, and I was by myself last night. If it does turn out to be a bad R/R, this makes me a little leery of Rick's products and their reliability and quality control. I paid $120 for their "Hot Shot" regulator and IF it turns out to be DOA, my confidence in their products will be low. From the research I did prior to purchase, it seems like people have been generally happy with their products. I will keep everyone posted.

That HOT Shot is a misnomer; It stays cool while giving your stator a "Hot Shot". Based on the descriptions, it sound like a MOSFET SHUNT R/R; the worst possible for your stator.

Did you read GS Stator in my signature?

Or that money you could have bought a Compufire, but maybe you can settle for an SH-775 and be done with it.

 

[posplayr]

Do these things actually look any different? I can't believe that Ricks rebranded a MOSFET SHUNT R/R as "Hot Shot" and sells it for double the market and for the worst thing on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/Mosfet-Regul...rd_wg=1Ekvz&psc=1&refRID=W3CQEXJCAWD47TS36BT5

https://www.amazon.com/Ricks-Motors...rd_wg=1Ekvz&psc=1&refRID=W3CQEXJCAWD47TS36BT5

 

[tom203]

I can believe it! There are probably warehouses full of these shunt r/r's (both shindengen and knockoffs) and they need to move! I'll bet that shindengen is holding off on the bigger amp version of the sh-775 till the mosfet shunts are almost gone .

Fortunately for me , clicking on the amazon link said that Rick's r/r wasn't compatible with my model.

 

[dezlpwr]

Well, a friend of a friend also has a 1982 GS750 and he let me borrow his spare used OEM R/R. Installed it and bingo, works like a champ. Gets hot pretty quick, 150*. Not sure if this is normal?? Goes up to 14.6v pretty quickly off idle and holds there close to it throughout the RPM range. So now I apparently have a new $120 Ricks R/R that is basically a boat anchor from what you guys are saying. I looked at the Polaris one that you guys recommend and it is expensive, ($180 at Partzilla)which I don't have an issue with, but what about mounting and the wiring harness/adaptation needed? Electrical is not my expertise area so I don't want to buy something that takes extensive modification to mount or hook up.

 

[dezlpwr]

So a Mosfet R/R is not good because it allows the stator to heat up vs the R/R, correct? Pardon my electrical ignorance. There is so much varying info on these R/Rs that my head is spinning right now. hehe I just want to get a reliable R/R with minimal or no modification required to hook up.

 

[Nessism]

You are looking at the wrong part number for the SH775 if you are getting $180. Check this thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-R-prices-(SH775-Polaris-part-number-4012941)

If money is tight order this and find one of those Triumph harness pigtails for the connectors... http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-POLARI...ash=item21111aa2c7:g:KDMAAOSwnFZXWrFO&vxp=mtr

Search ebay for "Polaris RZR regulator" if you want a prettier sample. Just be sure to verify the unit you are considering has the "SH775" lettering printed on the top.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+rzr+regulator&_sop=15


Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R bypassing the factory wiring? If not, you need to do so. Also, use Jim's guide to check for voltage loss in the + power back to the battery. That will tell you about the wire circuit quality. Lastly, make sure your ground goes straight to the battery or a very solid frame point.

 

[Guest]

So a Mosfet R/R is not good because it allows the stator to heat up vs the R/R, correct? Pardon my electrical ignorance. There is so much varying info on these R/Rs that my head is spinning right now. hehe I just want to get a reliable R/R with minimal or no modification required to hook up.

Another stator, R/R saga on the forum, damn near more argued around here than tires or oil...

I run an 80' GS850G, original equipment R/R's, stator unknown (maybe original, maybe not) 77,000 miles, 20K with me on it no issues

My son's 83' GS850G, replaced with Caltric stator & Duaneage Honda R/R kit, 2 years later no issues

Have replace a couple other R/R's with used SH775's, no issues


Not sure what kind of R/R Duaneage's kits were but he has had excellent results over time and the SH775 series type R/R's have had excellent results over time here with forum members.
I have no idea what any of it means anymore...

 

[dezlpwr]

You are looking at the wrong part number for the SH775 if you are getting $180. Check this thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-R-prices-(SH775-Polaris-part-number-4012941)

If money is tight order this and find one of those Triumph harness pigtails for the connectors... http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-POLARI...ash=item21111aa2c7:g:KDMAAOSwnFZXWrFO&vxp=mtr

Search ebay for "Polaris RZR regulator" if you want a prettier sample. Just be sure to verify the unit you are considering has the "SH775" lettering printed on the top.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+rzr+regulator&_sop=15


Did you wire the stator directly into the R/R bypassing the factory wiring? If not, you need to do so. Also, use Jim's guide to check for voltage loss in the + power back to the battery. That will tell you about the wire circuit quality. Lastly, make sure your ground goes straight to the battery or a very solid frame point.

The prices have obviously gone up since 2014... I did not wire the r/r directly to the stator. Not sure how to do that? Just not connect anything to the factory wire harness?