New RR installed w/Triumph leads Question?

[Carter Turk]

So I put a new SH775 on last night & previously had the orange...apparently unswitched wire hooked to the old shunt Honda RR going to the positive leg of the battery.

Not sure if this was correct to begin with or not, but it was the pig tail on Duanages Honda RR's that this orange wire was plugged into.

I just recently installed this used 1150 engine & only rode it 60 miles before the battery drained to 8 volts almost stranding me, hence the new RR.

I am trying Grimly's method of not replacing stator just yet.

So when rewiring the new RR, I had this same orange wire hooked to + side of battery.

When hooked up, all the lights n dash illuminated with no key. So I disconnected it, lights went out, put key in, turned to the key to the on position & the bike

turned over like it should. Not sure what this orange wire is supposed to go to near the fuse box?

I did have a brake light issue a while back where the brake light would stay on, so a friend bypassed this somehow, unsure if this is related or not.

RR is hooked directly to stator & +/- directly to the battery. Any advice/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Steve]

Is that a STOCK orange wire, or has it been added?

If it's STOCK, that is the switched wire that comes back from the ignition key to feed the fuse box.

If it's been added, all bets (and guesses) are off until you find what's on the other end of the wire.

First test is to see if it comes live with the ignition key ON.

.

 

[Carter Turk]

It is a stock orange wire, no mods.

Will report back if it's live with ignition on tomorrow.

The bike would have been able to start w/o key with this wire connected to the + leg of battery , at least the engine turned over pressing the starter button.

 

[Guest]

You certainly do not want to replace something you do not need to replace, but a visual check of the stator will tell you a lot about it. If the same thing happens right away and it is not a battery problem you will be replacing it anyway. When I installed my Compu-Fire Years ago I disregarded the popular advise to replace mine (the insulating varnish had turned dark). A year from the day I installed my Series R/R, it died on me. Replaced the stator and it is still working fine ten years later.

 

[Gorminrider]

So I put a new SH775 on last night & previously had the orange...apparently unswitched wire hooked to the old shunt Honda RR going to the positive leg of the battery.

Not sure if this was correct to begin with or not

to paraphrase what steve said, NOT.
look for the red and the orange wire in your manual's wiring diagram...("R" and "O")

 

[Carter Turk]

First test is to see if it comes live with the ignition key ON.

Yes, it does come on with test light.

 

[Carter Turk]

Well,

I looked at the wiring diagram & it appears the Orange wire only goes from the ignition switch to the fuse panel.

I peeled back the electrical tape near the fuse box & apparently a Y on the Orange wire was spliced in.

So an Orange wire to nowhere?

 

[Gorminrider]

That's all the orange wire is supposed to do... the key switches red onto orange and orange runs back to power the fusebox , thereafter it supplies all the branches out as striped orange wires .(Ignition,Lights,Brake and turn signals....)

You should not attach the reg's DC output to Orange, as I think you are describing(?) .Because, the bike will not stop if you turn the key off! You'd have to use the kill switch! Because, until you open the ignition circuit with the kill, the motor will run, and the output of the stator and regulator are still powering the ignition and everything else as long as the motor spins...this is bad. The output of the regulator will be choppy, under or over voltage. Plus, it'll only charge the battery and the power only smooth out when the key is on!


The Suzuki plan is that your regulator output attaches to RED...the same red that goes to your key before it gets to orange. That way, if you turn the key off, the bike will quit entirely, because the orange is depowered and therefore the fusebox is de-powered. Plus, when the motor is running, the charging is direct to the battery.

There's likely a red stub somewhere about the middle of the harness where it's been cut off or it's just hanging loose. Attach the regulator's +DC output to it...or,to the battery+post, if you really can't find it.

 

[Carter Turk]

I rode the bike today to top off the gas tank, since it's just mostly hibernating in the garage.

3 wires from RR to Stator, +/- directly to battery, orange Y taped off by fuse box, but main Orange going to connector in fuse box.

Will need to have a look at the stator sooner than later as the bike seems to lose voltage while just sitting in the garage.

I trickled charged the AGM battery yesterday, showing 12.8 ish, before I topped off the gas this morning, it was 12.33V.

When I returned, voltage was down to 12.15V, after maybe only 10 miles.

The wiring harness is in pretty good shape (not molested) so I don't think there's a wire rubbing thru the insulation anywhere on the frame rails.

The old original "loop de loop" connector for the stator is still there coming off the main wiring harness, but unplugged to anything.

Signals, headlight, brake light, instrument cluster lights all worked fine on the short little ride. Any other place to suggest looking for draining voltage

while sitting in the garage?

 

[Redman]

. . . . . . . on Duanages Honda RR's that this orange wire was plugged into.

. . . . . .

I am not really following all what was discussed here, but I can say that the "extra" wire that the Dunnage Honda R/R had that the stock R/R (nor the new SH775) R/R dont have, is the "sense" wire to monitor the voltage. If followed the Dunnage instructions that wire plugged into the brake light circuit right before the switch on the rear brake lever, the dunnage kit came with two connectors (maybe the Y you mentioned) on the end of that wire so could disconnect an existing connector in the brake light circuit (org/grn) and then plug in the two connectors. That brake ligh circuit was just a convient nearby place to tap into a circuit that is swtiched on/off with the key.
You said you tapped off the wire. What could also do is follow it, and if find two connectors on the end of that wire, you could diconnect them and plug the original two org/grn wires back together.

 

[Gorminrider]

Yes, ^^^that's a good point if he's talking about the old honda sensewire, but I thought he's putting a new R/R in with out an extra wire...

So I put a new SH775 on last night & previously....

??

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Have I missed something? If the rectifier output has been connected to the battery there should be a fuse on the+ wire I belive 30amp.
i would have favoured connecting the + from the rectifier to the loom where the original connection was made.

 

[Redman]

Yes, ^^^that's a good point if he's talking about the old honda sensewire, but I thought he's putting a new R/R in with out an extra wire...??

And he was asking about wire that seemed to be leftover, and he just taped it off. I was suggesting it probably is the sence wire from the dunnage honda R/R (not used on SH775), and he will find it tapped into the brake light circuit, and could be removed, and brake light circuit put back together.

 

[Gorminrider]

I rode the bike today to top off the gas tank, since it's just mostly hibernating in the garage.

3 wires from RR to Stator, +/- directly to battery, orange Y taped off by fuse box, but main Orange going to connector in fuse box.

Will need to have a look at the stator sooner than later as the bike seems to lose voltage while just sitting in the garage.

I trickled charged the AGM battery yesterday, showing 12.8 ish, before I topped off the gas this morning, it was 12.33V.

When I returned, voltage was down to 12.15V, after maybe only 10 miles.

The wiring harness is in pretty good shape (not molested) so I don't think there's a wire rubbing thru the insulation anywhere on the frame rails.

The old original "loop de loop" connector for the stator is still there coming off the main wiring harness, but unplugged to anything.

Signals, headlight, brake light, instrument cluster lights all worked fine on the short little ride. Any other place to suggest looking for draining voltage

while sitting in the garage?

Well,very very possibly the battery is no good. Happens to AGM too believe it or not. Disconnect a battery cable from a battery post either will do-or both to be superduper sure ! and see if it loses that much overnight. A good battery will test above 12.5 after being left overnight and longer.

Freshly charged batteries always test wonderful just after charging. But by definition a bad battery won't hold a charge. After the charger and you let them rest, they settle down to what they really are able to hold.

If it seems alright with the voltage good after sitting unconnected,it's good. If it tests 12.2 or less it's on it's way out. That done, Only then look for leakage...which there really can't be unless the keyswitch is full of corrosion crap or the red wire attached to it is somehow doing it....

As to charging, the old old saw is to test the voltage across the two terminals when motor running. 13.8->14.5 or so...depending on rpm.

 

[Carter Turk]

Have I missed something? If the rectifier output has been connected to the battery there should be a fuse on the+ wire I belive 30amp.
i would have favoured connecting the + from the rectifier to the loom where the original connection was made.

No missing anything, I've been around here since 96, but still struggle with electrical diagnosis of issues, obviously...
Guess I've gotten away for the most part w/o ever connecting a fuse, between the RR & battery.

The original connection suggested is where most GS electrical issues reside, in the redundant loop thru the loom, unless I'm missing something.

The battery was purchased in November of 2020, though I suppose it could be a lemon with only 70 miles on it.

Could the stator have a parasitic draw from grounding of the wires in the windings?

Otherwise, where else in the harness, would be drawing down voltage overnight if the battery is good?

 

[fastbysuzuki]

The original connection suggested is where most GS electrical issues reside, in the redundant loop thru the loom, unless I'm missing something.

Yes you are missing something, the +red wire from the rectifier is connected into the wire in the harness where the original rectifier was connected. The black would connect to earth or (single point ground) the three wires from the stator are connected to the rectifier this way you would have two wires no longer in use as they are the headlamp loop now redundant.
when I put " am I missing something " in my post I was not trying to be smart I simply could not remember any mention of a fuse in any of the posts.