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New speakers/covers for the Vetter

ddaniels

ddaniels

Forum Sage
While contemplating what to mount in the Cyclesound as far as a stereo and speakers, I got the bright idea that maybe I could comehow mount some speakers that were bigger than the 4" round ones I'm limited to in the cycle sound. But, I can't mount a speaker in the soft cover on the left. I have to make something. So, maybe I can make something out of fiberglass to kinda match the lockable one on the right, I thought. So, I headed to Lowe's to look around. I was thinking maybe I could by some sheet metal to cut to shape and form to the desired shape, then wrap fiberglass matt over it and apply the resin. Sounds simple enough. But, while at Lowe's I found some small sheets of thick 16 gauge steel and started thinking maybe I can just form this and cover it with black vinyl?? So, that was the new plan.
Here's the first sheet with the shape drawn on:
cover1.jpg

The top/left after formed and hole cut for 4x6 speaker:
cover2.jpg

the bottom/left:
cover3.jpg

Applying the black vinyl with contact cement:
cover6.jpg

test fitting a speaker:
cover5.jpg

bottom/left after vinyl is on, bottom painted black and red trim applied:
cover7.jpg

top/left:
cover8.jpg

Covers on before dealing with the radio:
cover9.jpg

cover10.jpg

More to come:
 
It was a bit of a challenge how to mount the stereo I bought since it didn't have the standard old post mount design, but I finally figured it out using the included sleeve that came with it. I ended up buying a complete Boss system with a 320 watt Boss stereo that has a usb port and a slot for a sd card. So, I have to get busy ripping some cd's. Also has 18 fm presets and 12 am presets. I have the 4x6 3 way speakers in the covers and 4" round 3 way's in the cycle sound. I'm satisfied with the setup. So, what do you all think?
cover11.jpg
 
Also, the stereo has a pop-out drawer where the readout is where you can stick in an adapter (comes with several) for your ipod. Pretty cool I think. I'm out about $175 for the whole deal.
 
I had one on my 850 Used to vibrate a lot. Not real secure mounting
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
I had one on my 850 Used to vibrate a lot. Not real secure mounting
Click to expand...
I figured out that if I tuck it back into the "dash" as far as I could, and make the mounting tabs to fit accordingly(I made some), it removed most, if not all of the bouncing. I took it for a test ride and it wasn't bouncing at all. Plus, there's no cd to worry about.
 
Nice work on making the left side cover, locking to boot too. I like that idea for having the four speakers, I bet it makes a huge difference.
 
That is OUTSTANDING, Dave, and it solves the biggest problem with the Cyclesound's limited speaker size ... volume at speed with quality bass and midrange!! I had considered using five or six inch round speakers in the cyclesound itself and building spacers to accomodate the larger speakers, but concluded that doing so might interfere with handlebar travel and other clearances ... so I simply put in a decent set of four inchers and called it good.

I also considered your solution, but didn't want to sacrifice storage space in the fairing. My long term plan was to add similar speakers to the rear of the bike, similar to what you might see on a 'Wing, but ultimately I decided just to leave things alone because I wasn't convinced I'd get the sound quality from the rear that I wanted.

Frankly, I think you've hit a home run with your solution, and I think the execution is terrific! I have no doubt it sounds great. On a related note, I am in the process of putting up the LED brake light pics I PM'd you about, and will send you a link to the thread when it's ready...

Awesome job, Pal!

Regards,
 
dr_fosg8 said:
Nice work on making the left side cover, locking to boot too. I like that idea for having the four speakers, I bet it makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...
I made both right and left covers as I didn't want to mess up the right one, and I wanted them to match. Thanks.
 
Thanks Steve. It does solve the volume problem nicely and the 4x6's add the missing bass frequencies. Not as good as 6x9's, but good enough. My only remaining problem, which I ran into on the way to work this morning, is that at low rpm's the stereo cuts out. I read earlier in the owner's manual that came with it that the stereo requires something like 15 volts to operate, which I think explains this. It also won't turn on with the bike off, which is not really a problem. But, it was very annoying when sitting there idling at a stop light to have the thing cut out on me. I'm not sure what I can do about it. Anybody have any thoughts?
 
Wow! Now that's odd. 15 volts required on a 12V system? Makes no sense...

I wonder if using a storage capacitor might help eliminate the drop-out when the bike voltage dips at idle? They're commonly used to help high amperage motors (like washing machines, etc.) start up without causing the line voltage to dip throughout the rest of the house.

On a high draw item like an upscale stereo I wouldn't be at all surprised if similar 12V capacitors were available for exactly this problem. Check with an autosound specialty store to see what they suggest. Large caps are usually somewhat pricey, but it would most likely solve the problem while the bike is running.

Regards,
 
Dave..I like the revamping of the radio..the idea of the speakers in the glove box covers is great. How hardf was it finding a unit to fit into the housing ? That is the housing i sent you isnt it?.. Did you need the antenna too? Oh and my leg where i slashed it making the box to send it has healed very nicely..LOL
 
I made a mistake in an earlier post. The stereo requires 13.8 volts, not 15. Sorry for the mistake.

Also, as I was riding home from work, I discovered that the radio does not cut out at low rpm's, rather, it cuts out when I turn on the turn signals. I tried riding it without using the signals and it never cut out. So, I need to take a look at what the two hots are wired to and see how that relates to the source for the signals I guess. One hot is connected to the ignition switch while the other is a connected to a constant source so the clock and presets aren't lost.
 
chuck hahn said:
Dave..I like the revamping of the radio..the idea of the speakers in the glove box covers is great. How hardf was it finding a unit to fit into the housing ? That is the housing i sent you isnt it?.. Did you need the antenna too? Oh and my leg where i slashed it making the box to send it has healed very nicely..LOL
Click to expand...
Yep, it's the housing I got from you. I had to cut out the front since the radio is not a post mount. Then, I had to attach some metal strips inside for the tabs on the sleeve to bend and grab onto. It was a bit of a pain in the rear to get it to work, bit it works. I used your antenna at first, but it was so dang big and heavy that I didn't like the looks of it. So, I got one of those small whip type ones.

Glad to hear your leg is healing up good. Sorry for that. :oops:
 
ddaniels said:
I made a mistake in an earlier post. The stereo requires 13.8 volts, not 15. Sorry for the mistake.
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter ... 13.8 volts STILL makes no sense. I'd complain to the manufacturer for failing to properly design their sound system for the vehicles it's going to be installed in (ANY of them).

Requiring an input of over twelve volts for ANY device designed for a twelve volt system assumes that the vehicle will ALWAYS be running, and that the charging system is up to the task of pumping enough current to not only charge the battery but also run the device ... Nutty, in my opinion! After all, a twelve volt battery at rest only puts out ... twelve volts! Ok, maybe 12.5, depending on the individual battery, but no twelve volt battery that I know of runs at 13.8 volts.

Regards,
 
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Actually, when my car is running, the battery is reading right around 14.5 volts, and that's not uncommon at all.
 
ddaniels said:
Actually, when my car is running, the battery is reading right around 14.5 volts, and that's not uncommon at all.
Click to expand...
...But that's not the battery voltage, Dave ... that's the voltage coming off the charging system. If you shut the car off the battery voltage is generally no higher than 12.5 volts. The stereo should be designed to work when any vehicle it is connected to is turned off and the voltage is only 12 volts. Personally, I call "foul!"

Regards,
 
Last edited:
Planecrazy said:
...But that's not the battery voltage, Dave ... that's the voltage coming off the charging system. If you shut the car off the battery voltage is generally no higher than 12.5 volts. The stereo should be designed to work when any vehicle it is connected to is turned off and the voltage is only 12 volts. Personally, I call "foul!"

Regards,
Click to expand...
Point taken, but I like the stereo and am going to keep it. I don't see as I need to have it on with the bike turned off anyway.:o
 
ddaniels said:
Point taken, but I like the stereo and am going to keep it. I don't see as I need to have it on with the bike turned off anyway.:o
Click to expand...
Of course that's your prerogative, but one thing I'd mention is that occasionally on GSR rallies it's been convenient (and enjoyable) to be able to run my unit while we were in the parking lot "shooting the $hit..." ;)

Regards,
 
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