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New to the GS can someone give me a little advice

  • Thread starter Thread starter rocz
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rocz

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I just picked up a GSXR that has had a GS1100 motor stuffed into it, its going to need a starter, and possible a starter clutch. But before i begin I'm a little confused about all letters after they seem to have alot to do with getting parts, would someone pleas explain them to me. I know i need a starter so what model would i be looking for.
Also right before the starter went belly up it was spinning but the motor was not so i pulled the cover off and found that the nut on the end of the crank was no more than finger tight. I tightened it up but don't really know if its better because the starter is smoked now, the motor is punched out to 1428 so i would image that it would kinda be hard on the starter and starter clutch. Is there any starter that is better than another??
Thanks in advance Ben
 
I just picked up a GSXR that has had a GS1100 motor stuffed into it, its going to need a starter, and possible a starter clutch. But before i begin I'm a little confused about all letters after they seem to have alot to do with getting parts, would someone pleas explain them to me. I know i need a starter so what model would i be looking for.
Also right before the starter went belly up it was spinning but the motor was not so i pulled the cover off and found that the nut on the end of the crank was no more than finger tight. I tightened it up but don't really know if its better because the starter is smoked now, the motor is punched out to 1428 so i would image that it would kinda be hard on the starter and starter clutch. Is there any starter that is better than another??
Thanks in advance Ben

Sorry Ben,

U came to the wrong place. It will not be possible for you to just get a "little" advice. Be prepared for an onslaught.

Your only hope is to post a picture of that 1428 GS/GSXR :rolleyes:
 
Engines with higher than stock compression and big bore kits are hard on starter clutches. There's been discussions before about killing power to the ignition so you get a few cranks, then power up the ignition while still cranking so it will fire.
 
Is this a drag bike or a street bike?
First I'd find out the compression ratio on the pistons. Do a compression check. This will tell you if you need a more than stock starter. To do a compression check without a starter will be a neat trick.
How do you know it's a 1428?
Ask Rapidray or blowerbike about a stronger starter.
You'll need to check the starter clutch to see if it's good. The previous poster has the know how when it comes to this.
If the starter clutch is good you'll need to red loctite the starter clutch onto the tapered end with at least 80lbs on the nut.
 
Last edited:
Sorry Ben,

U came to the wrong place. It will not be possible for you to just get a "little" advice. Be prepared for an onslaught.

Your only hope is to post a picture of that 1428 GS/GSXR :rolleyes:


That's what i like to hear!!! I don't know for a fact yet that is a 1428 but even if its not i got the whole bike for a little of nothing so i not going to be out anything here's a picture of the beast, do those jugs look aftermarket to you guys?? thanks for the locktight tip ill do that when it goes back together
 
Is this a drag bike or a street bike?
First I'd find out the compression ratio on the pistons. Do a compression check. This will tell you if you need a more than stock starter. To do a compression check without a starter will be a neat trick.
How do you know it's a 1428?
Ask Rapidray or blowerbike about a stronger starter.
You'll need to check the starter clutch to see if it's good. The previous poster has the know how when it comes to this.
If the starter clutch is good you'll need to red loctite the starter clutch onto the tapered end with at least 80lbs on the nut.


I'm not really sure what to call this thing, maybe a street bike with a drag bike heart lol, i want to try to keep it more of a street bike but some times thats not how it works, will this thing stay cool on the streets with the 2 oil coolers, seams like kinda of an over kill but i don't know much about these GS's yet.
 
Does the oil have to travel from the oil sensor to the oil cooler to the head???:eek:
 
Does the oil have to travel from the oil sensor to the oil cooler to the head???:eek:


That line comes out of the block right under the carbs, i take it by your reply that it should be run another way, if so do tell how it should be run i wound hate to mess the motor up because of something dumb, if you see any other problems feel free to point them out ill try to get some more pictures of it tomorrow so you guys can see what im working with.
 
Judging from all the bolt on goodies I'd say that engine has been heavily modified. RS flatslides and the drive sprocket cover are just a couple of the hints.
 
Well, if the oil from the sensor is Y'd off to the two coolers into the head you may be OK. This is how top end oilers work w/out the coolers. I would run extra oil in the galley to make up for the lines and coolers. You'd have to fill the lines and coolers by running the bike and then filling to the top of the window.
 
I just picked up a GSXR that has had a GS1100 motor stuffed into it, its going to need a starter, and possible a starter clutch. But before i begin I'm a little confused about all letters after they seem to have alot to do with getting parts, would someone pleas explain them to me. I know i need a starter so what model would i be looking for.
Also right before the starter went belly up it was spinning but the motor was not so i pulled the cover off and found that the nut on the end of the crank was no more than finger tight. I tightened it up but don't really know if its better because the starter is smoked now, the motor is punched out to 1428 so i would image that it would kinda be hard on the starter and starter clutch. Is there any starter that is better than another??
Thanks in advance Ben

Your engine is somewhere between 1980-1983 GS1100E. 16V TSCC

Look at the valve cover to see if there are two bolts right in the cam chain gallery (front and back); if so that is the 24 bolt pattern of the 82-83 GS1100E.
More than likely the crank has been welded, with the big block so not much difference there.

The Suzukis have year coding in the lettering so:

1980 GS1100ET 20 bolt valve cover
1981 GS1100EX 20 bolt
1982 GS1100EZ 24 bolt
1983 GS1100ED/ESD 24 bolt

The Katanas are
1982 GS1000SZ ???
1983 GS1100SD 24 bolt

Ther was also a 1980 GS1100L 16V 20 bolt

Your bike is a 2nd generation GSXR, not sure if it was 750(started in 88-91) or 1100(started in 89-92)? Since you seem to have RSU forks maybe an early 2nd Gen
 
Your engine is somewhere between 1980-1983 GS1100E. 16V TSCC

Look at the valve cover to see if there are two bolts right in the cam chain gallery (front and back); if so that is the 24 bolt pattern of the 82-83 GS1100E.
More than likely the crank has been welded, with the big block so not much difference there.

The Suzukis have year coding in the lettering so:

1980 GS1100ET 20 bolt valve cover
1981 GS1100EX 20 bolt
1982 GS1100EZ 24 bolt
1983 GS1100ED/ESD 24 bolt

The Katanas are
1982 GS1000SZ ???
1983 GS1100SD 24 bolt

Ther was also a 1980 GS1100L 16V 20 bolt

Your bike is a 2nd generation GSXR, not sure if it was 750(started in 88-91) or 1100(started in 89-92)? Since you seem to have RSU forks maybe an early 2nd Gen

Cool thanks for the info ill have to check that stuff out tomorrow. From the story i got from my friend who got the bike from the guy that was building it the frame was bought from suzuki as a replacement frame with no vin numbers and they had an Iowa vin given to it, and it it titled as a 1982 so they may of used the year of the motor for the rest of bike build. I have 3 other 2nd gen gsxr's and its tough to tell the frames apart but I'm not to worried about it at this point. Thanks again for that info i can use all the info can get on these GS's. motors.
 
ok a lil chub going on here...
GS in a GSXR!!!!!
very cool!:dancing:


lets get past my excitement for a minute:o

i believe your crank snout is the 80-82 small diameter and that your alt. rotor has spun on the crank till the crank has shrunk up and the alt. rotor has enlarged.
the reason i say this is because when this happens the large crank nut becomes finger tight.
when you tighten it up the entire starter clutch assembly locks up and becomes direct drive (no free wheeling)(sometime locks starter motor also).
this is just a guess because of the work i see done to your engine(big block).
if this is the case there is only a couple options...
let see what you find out when the alt. rotor is removed.
 
Very cool bike! Someone put a lot of effort/money into that.....first time I've seen the RC-51 style 2-cooler mod on a GS (maybe the gurus here have seen it done before), but it probably helped to keep temps at a sane level. Please post up some more pics!:)
Tony.
 
ok a lil chub going on here...
GS in a GSXR!!!!!
very cool!:dancing:


lets get past my excitement for a minute:o

i believe your crank snout is the 80-82 small diameter and that your alt. rotor has spun on the crank till the crank has shrunk up and the alt. rotor has enlarged.
the reason i say this is because when this happens the large crank nut becomes finger tight.
when you tighten it up the entire starter clutch assembly locks up and becomes direct drive (no free wheeling)(sometime locks starter motor also).
this is just a guess because of the work i see done to your engine(big block).
if this is the case there is only a couple options...
let see what you find out when the alt. rotor is removed.


Man i hope your wrong but who knows the starter clutch "seams" to be working properly now it will freewheel and when i tried spinning it over with a screwdriver it felt like it was trying to turn the motor over. It is suppose to be a fresh motor and when I had the plugs out of it the top of the pistons looked nice and new, but that doesn't mean it wasn't junk when it was put together.
 
If you can see the top of the pistons you will either see flat pistons with slight indentations for the valves (normal compression) or deep pockets for the valves with a rise in the center of the piston (high compression)
 
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