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Newb mistake, used the wrong oil!

  • Thread starter Thread starter exzachtly1
  • Start date Start date
E

exzachtly1

Guest
So I made a mistake and put regular 10w-40 motor oil in my bike when I changed the oil about a week and a half ago. It's the "energy conserving" kind which I now know is BAD BAD BAD. I didn't know that you were not supposed to use this type of oil. :oops:

So I'm going to go pick up some proper motorcycle oil and change the oil again. I've only ridden about 7 miles around the neighborhood on the bad oil. Haven't noticed any shifting issues so I hope I haven't affected anything. My question is: do I need to change the filter as well? The manual says 2.6q for a normal oil change, 3.4q if changing the filter (this actually surprises me, is there really that much more oil draining out when you pull the filter?).

I don't want to buy 4 quarts if I don't have to. Thoughts?

And yes, you can all point and laugh now :) I'm just glad I realized my mistake before I rode it a lot.
 
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Why would you want to leave any (besides what hides in every corner/pocket inside the engine) of the other oil in it to save a couple of bucks? :confused:

Eric
 
You're right, I don't really mind buying the extra oil I just didn't know if I had to. Would you recommend replacing the filter too?
 
You might get by with simply draining the filter for a period of time.
If you can keep it from getting dirty.

Eric
 
Then I guess I replace it ;)

It's only 5 bucks after all. Can't believe I did this :rolleyes:
 
Are you going to be replacing with a form of Rotella or something else?

Eric
 
Please tell me what brand of oil you used.

Until now, I have not heard of ANY 10w-40 oil being the "energy conserving" type, they have all been -20 or -30 oils, but no -40 or -50.

Are you SURE it was "energy conserving"? Did it have those words in the API "donut" on the back panel?

.
 
I used this oil

Scroll down in the description, you will see this:

Standards: API SM/SL, ILSAC GF-4 & GF-3, Energy Conserving
 
Rotella is good stuff, and way cheaper than motorcycle oil. I'd remove the filter and dump out any oil inside, then replace the filter and button up the engine. The shaft drive 650 has a second oil drain location, under the secondary transmission gears. Be sure to drain both areas before adding fresh oil.
 
Thanks guys, will be doing this right away after work. Will probably use the Rotella 15w40 unless anyone has a reason to use something else.
 
The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.
 
exzachtly1 said:
Thanks guys, will be doing this right away after work. Will probably use the Rotella 15w40 unless anyone has a reason to use something else.
Click to expand...

You got it (it turns out there's some juices (additives) which our wet clutches really like (and are missing from today's regular oils.) And the stuff is cheap!
We call that ... winfinity.
 
exzachtly1 said:
The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.
Click to expand...

No. But you might want to use NEW lock washers.

Eric
 
exzachtly1 said:
The manual calls for applying thread lock cement to the nuts on the oil filter when putting it back on. Is that necessary? Is Loctite blue appropriate for this application? There's no mention of doing this on Bikecliff's oil / filter change tutorial.
Click to expand...

Never used it. Just a cross-pattern tightening procedure (but NOT too tight!) and you should be golden.
 
i use rotella 15-40w in my bike just started using it with the last oil change and its about time for another one soon but i love it so much better then the adverised motorcycle oil, never had an issue with it and it seems like is has improved engine workings, i didnt say performance but what i mean is the working of the motor everything felt smoother and seemed to quite a hair as well
 
7981GS said:
No. But you might want to use NEW lock washers.

Eric
Click to expand...

What size are the lock washers, or is there a good place to find a parts manual with all of the nut, screw, bolt, and washer sizes in general? If I remember correctly from the first oil change, there may not have been lock washers on there in the first place.
 
exzachtly1 said:
I used this oil

Scroll down in the description, you will see this:

Standards: API SM/SL, ILSAC GF-4 & GF-3, Energy Conserving
Click to expand...
That is the FIRST time I have seen anything thicker than 10w-30 with the "Energy Conserving" rating. :o

Looked on Valvoline's site, can't even find that oil for any details, will have to loof at the store this evening.

.
 
Steve said:
That is the FIRST time I have seen anything thicker than 10w-30 with the "Energy Conserving" rating. :o

Looked on Valvoline's site, can't even find that oil for any details, will have to loof at the store this evening.

.
Click to expand...

Looks like I hit the newbie lottery then, lol! Just my luck :dancing:
 
ptexotik said:
c'mon guy:p take one of the nuts off and get to Hardware store for a fit that's slightly larger than thread circumference!
Click to expand...

Haha, OK will do! I was planning to stop on the way home but I guess I can do it that way too. Trying to save on the runaround is all :D
 
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