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No rear brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter shameless
  • Start date Start date
Make sure you get replacement copper washers for the lines. You can re-use copper ones if you anneal them, but better to go new. Dead cheap, though.
 
You should get new copper washers with any set of premade replacement lines, but it doesnt hurt to check they are included in the hardware.

Alos, checke your caliper pins (the pins the calipers slide on) for corrosion, pitting, etc...these can get bad enough to cause binding.
 
Can I get the washers and caliper pins at just any auto parts store?
 
shameless said:
Can I get the washers and caliper pins at just any auto parts store?
Click to expand...

Not in my experience...but the caliper pins are available through online Suzuki parts suppliers, dealers, Ebay, etc. The washers might be easier to find, but being metric might present some difficulties. If you are going to build your own lines then just order the crush washers at the same time as the rest of the plumbing.
 
Don't order anything until you tear down the whole brake system and see what you need first. You will need seals but other parts (pistons, pins, whatever) are unknown until you see them with your own eyes.
 
eil said:
Don't order anything until you tear down the whole brake system and see what you need first. You will need seals but other parts (pistons, pins, whatever) are unknown until you see them with your own eyes.
Click to expand...

I'm getting a lot of mixed feelings here. lol I value all of your opinions, however I've been told by so any people, replace everything, then others say you don't have to replace the pistons, seals, etc, if they're ok. but definitely replace the lines. I'm trying to wrap my head around this, please be patient, but I'm not sure what to do lol
 
Just strip it and see.
Pistons badly pitted? Junk.
Old rubber lines? Junk.
The seals are of unknown age and likely junk (or do you feel lucky?).
The pins are probably ok, but they get junky with lots of miles and the holes they slide into get worn and there's no way back for them, so the mounting bracket can be junk, too.
On the bright side, if you have a relatively low-mileage bike and it's not been abandoned outside by the sea, the chances are the calipers only need a strip, clean, new seals and new lines and you'll be good to go for another two or three decades.
The master cylinder likely only needs new seals, too. Again, you won't know until you strip it.

What works in your favour is the majority of these bikes were weekend and summer toys, and usually serviced regularly for the first decade or two of their existence, so the odd application of grease here and there did wonders for the longevity of various components.
 
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shameless said:
I'm getting a lot of mixed feelings here. lol I value all of your opinions, however I've been told by so any people, replace everything, then others say you don't have to replace the pistons, seals, etc, if they're ok. but definitely replace the lines. I'm trying to wrap my head around this, please be patient, but I'm not sure what to do lol
Click to expand...

Okay, so your current brake system is comprised of two kinds of parts:

1. Those that need to be replaced for your own well-being and peace of mind.
2. Those that might need to be replaced because they may or may not be serviceable any more.

The parts in the first category are the rubber bits like seals and brake lines. They're old and since you don't know their history, that automatically means you need new ones.

As for the the parts in the second category, you won't know whether or not they need to be replaced until you tear open all calipers and master cylinders to clean and inspect them. That's why I advised doing that step first. You certainly can order the parts you know you need first, wait for them to arrive, and then tackle the rebuild only to find that you have to order yet more parts (which will take another two weeks or so to arrive). Or you can clean and inspect your brake systems first to find out which parts from category 2 that you need, which will save you time and shipping costs.

Make sense?
 
I posted, and deleted cause I was wrong, all 4 pistons have small pits in them, anyone know what size they are for front and rear brake pistons?
 
I found a listing for a piston cup for a GS1000S and a GS1000 gt, is there really a difference in the brakes, or are they all the same for GS?
 
There are differences, especially pre-1980 and post- 1980 have completely different calipers. Check on a parts diagram for both models.

What kind of shape are the rubber seals in?
 
the dust boots were basically dry rotted, one of the pistons was stuck in its main seal, I've ordered all new seals just to be certain. along with new lines, master cylinder kits, basically everything but the pistons. my mechanic friend said the pits were so small, they'd do for a little while till I can find the right ones if nothing else comes along soon. I'll be checking the local parts store though.
 
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