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No spark at plugs 1978 GS1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter matt8874
  • Start date Start date
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matt8874

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So I found out that my '78 GS1000 has no spark at the plugs. I turned the key to on, put the switch on run and touched two of the plugs to the block and got no spark. Tomorrow I am picking up a multimeter so I can check voltages and what not. I think the problem may be the points, unfortunately. I do not know much about points, just that there are condensers with them and they make contact to create spark, and that they have to be gapped.

First question is how do you get the correct gap amount? I have a spark plug gapper, will this work?
Second is how do I know if my points need replaced?
Last question is how do I know if the points are working correctly?

It may be hard for me to follow written directions, so if there is a video that could explain things along with the written directions that would be awesome!
 
Thank you Chuck for all the help you have given me so far, including my other thread.
Heres an update.

Points tested roughly 9v while at the open crank position, meaning not contacting the other point, when contacting the voltage dropped to 0v.
I bought a feeler gauge and gapped them to 0.014", as recommended in the service manual on BikeCliffs website.
The wires that are connected to the coils get 12v (more like 11.89v) but when testing each coil wire, whether the points for the corresponding coil were touching or not, had 0v.
So I am thinking that the coils are no good, but I need to know if that is most likely the case before I buy two new coils that will cost $100 for both.
I did cut about an inch off the end of one wire, tested it twice, again whether or not the points were touching, still nothing.
Key was "on" and "run" was also on during all testing.
 
I don't mean to be ignorant but you are hitting the start button to have the engine turn over when you are testing for spark at the plugs....right? You don't need your ignition on to test your coil wires (secondary) or to test your primary (across both contacts on the coils). And to test both your primary (across both contacts) and your secondary (coil leads) you don't have the voltmeter on Volts (you have it at 20 volts in the pictures)...you need it at OHMs. Do a search on "testing coils"
 
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I cant remember how I tested it to be honest, its been a couple weeks. And I thought I would be measuring the current in volts, ohms is resistance so why do I need to know resistance if I am looking for power? Not saying youre wrong, I just dont get it, but I can try it.

Edit: So an update...
I removed a spark plug and laid it on the block and turned the motor over, no sparks at plug #1, so I continued to test with the multimeter.
I did the ohm test as azr mentioned. I used this video and got the exact results from the first test he did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c
When testing primary wires I got 4.4 Ohms while testing at 200 Ohms.
When testing the secondary wires on 20k Ohms I got no reading, exactly as in the video.
So apparently I will need two coils.

Also, I bought the same spark plugs, NGK B8ES, and the tops are different. The ones that were on it had a screw like tip on the top, the new ones have a bowl like tip and the wire caps do not fit these...
 
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Why do you think your coils are toast, the numbers your posted show the coils are fine, primary and secondary. That was a very good, straight forward video you posted. With your new spark plugs, simply take a pair of pliers and you can screw off the "bowl like tip" and bingo you've got a "screw like tip"
 
He tested two coils in the video, the first one was bad, which I had the same results as. So I ordered two coils to be safe

Edit: I know this was posted a while ago on 9/3, its now 9/15.
But I didnt want to bump this post up since the issue is resolved.
I bought two new coils and it now has spark. Thank you for the help guys!
 
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Right, I read your other thread wrong, thought you got a result on the secondary. It's very odd that both your coils are not reading a secondary on any of the plug wires. This is from cliffs site

From Basscliff's site

"With the coil plug connectors disconnected, use an ohm meter and measure the resistance of both windings on each of the coils. Exact resistance measurements are not too important, but continuity of the windings close to the approximate resistance values given indicates that the coils are in good condition. It must be noted that it is possible for the coils to only show up a fault when at higher operating temperatures, but this does not happen frequently.
Ignition coil resistance:
Between the two HT plug caps of the same coil, secondary HT winding, approximately 30 - 35 K ohm
Between the orange/white and white on the first coil and orange/white and black/yellow on the second coil, primary winding, approximately 2-5 ohm. If this test is within limits you likely have two good coils."

if you unscrew plug caps from a coil, you should measure about 12000 ohms plug wire to plug wire.
Make sure you understand your multimeter scales.

The video you watched was a bit different in that he put one probe in the plug wire and the other to the frame, try putting both meter wires into the 2 different plug wires and see what your reading is.
 
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