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No spark to negative sides of coils

timebombprod

Forum Sage
Gonna go pickup fuses and replace all the ones in the fusebox first before anything, had a spare one but its bent inside so probably not a good one and all the rest being used have been there before I had the bike, it sat for 2 years atleast during that period.



So I replaced the leads and retwisted on the plug caps I recently bought, and my negative charges on the coilpack have zero to one spark every blue moon. I dont think it's the coilpacks because at one point all four were sparking. What could it possibly be?
 
Switched the fuse and I do have a more consistent spark on the negative coils, but still they are VERY weak spark, making me think there's possibly a bad connection somewhere.

I cleaned plenty of connections and the one I'm gonna question is the wire that is grounded on the negative screw on my fusebox, but what are other things to check, is testing the coilpacks worth it if they still seem to work, but have a possibly bad connection somewhere?
 
Cleaned connections for the negative fusebox ground and clipped the wire back some to reveal fresh wire, didnt do anything sadly. Is there somewhere else I should be looking at?
 
Is there any way i can test for voltage on the connections that go to the coilpack to make sure it's something before the coilpack
 
The ground for both ignition coils comes thru the ignitor....make sure the ignitor has a good ground. The plate the ignitor and r/r sits on has a weak ground connection,easily corroded.
 
The ground for both ignition coils comes thru the ignitor....make sure the ignitor has a good ground. The plate the ignitor and r/r sits on has a weak ground connection,easily corroded.

What's the ignitor? Does it have a wire that is used as the ground?
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesnt the ignitor have a built in ground? Black wire all the way to the left
Yes....the four connector plug (under seat) contains a ground wire. Make sure this connector is clean. I suspect that ignitor case is also grounded, but the primary ground is thru the connector.
 
Is there any way i can test for voltage on the connections that go to the coilpack to make sure it's something before the coilpack

Look up "voltage drop".

Everycomponent of the circuit has its own voltage drop. Every switch, wire , connection,coil, ignitor ...that's included in the loop "from" and "returning to" the battery has its own "voltage drop"...therefore, your coils will never have exactly the same voltage "across them" (aka "voltage drop") as across the battery's + and - terminals. BUT wires, switches and connections should ideally be so small as to be invisible.
The ignitor has a voltage drop.
It's a little different than points, which, when closed, ideally would have nearly 0 vd. When open, however, the ignition circuit is open and so no voltage across any thing in the circuit ..It gets a little more complicated on an operating engine, when capacitors and semiconductors and coils are in play and of course the generator too, but the drift of it should help ensure that things are as well connected as they can be.

remember that the sum of all the voltage drops in a circuit = the power source's output potential and all circuits connected to the power source have the same sum.
 
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Gonna be charging the battery making sure that it has enough juice, it spins the engine fine but just making sure. When I get all my parts in I'm gonna be putting the bike together and starting it up seeing how it idles
 
Batteries showing an error with the charger I'm using, gonna take it to an auto parts store in the morning and have then charge it see if it still reads an error.

R/R and stator have been changed and nothing but good results have been shown.
 
Any way faulty coilpacks can slowly mess up a battery? Was reading up about bad coilpacks and saw that smoke coming out the exhaust is an effect, when i run on 3 or 4 cylinders I do get smoke coming out ththe exhaust but not alot, and its blackish smoke too.
 
Looming up the error code on the charger says I have a possible short in the battery, gonna bring to oriellys either way, if the R/R and stator have been working as accordingly, what's to check for causing this?
 
BIG UPDATE

Theres a guy working on our backporch and we got to talking first about fishing, and then motorcycles and he has his fair share of old cool bikes, 2 triumphs, an ironhead, a knucklehead engine, and I believe a Norton 750. I was telling.him how I was having issues with my electrical stuff and explained what's happening, and he said pull out a multimeter and he got to work, super lucky for this guy to give out a hand and it only took him about 15 or 20 minutes to troubleshoot most of the bike, he checked for continuity throughout the bike and everything was clear, and then he got to the ignitor and said he couldn't do anything without a test light there, but this helped A BUNCH. So now it's down to testing the ignitor and the wires that run to it. The blue and green specifically.
 
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