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No Start Frustration

  • Thread starter Thread starter crash-harris
  • Start date Start date
C

crash-harris

Guest
Been having a bad day since I got home. Started out good as a got the gasket made for the stator cover and got oil in the bike and everything back together. Then it started raining as I wheeled it outside and noticed that the oil filter cover was leaking and that somehow the freggin' gasket had fell out of the cover's groove and gotten smashed when I put the cover on so I had to try to make an RVT gasket for that cover too, but it's still leaking a little now, but not as bad. I'm not really sure if there is any oil that has made it to the stator cover from the sound of it when cranking.

I had gas in the tank already so I tried to prime the bike/get it started. Nothing. I have to be doing something wrong here. I turned the arm on the petcock towards the back of the bike where it would normally say "prime" (though mine doesn't, came off an E bike). I've tried it on "reserve" and "on" and nothing still. Even tried to pour a little bit of gas through the spark plug holes into the cylinders and still nothing. I tested for spark, good, tested voltage, good. When I put the tank on I had to use a male-male fitting and some new hose to extend the fuel line a little bit since the tank is slightly different then the lost stock one. tried to start with choke one and then off. Plugs were wet when I pulled them so I cleaned them and reinstalled. Pulled the outlet tube on the petcock just enough to get some gas on my hands and the ckutch cover so there is gas flowing through it.

Any ideas why my poor GS450LZ isn't moving?
 
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First full choke and no gas, second if that doesnt work try push starting it with choke.
I dont rember what I was doing to my bike but the thing wouldnt start I tryed everthing thing and checked everything, but nothing. every thing checked out but no start. I turned it over till the battery was almost dead. so I tryed to push start it I took three times for the first pop, the fourth time it fired right up. I dont know why or what ???? good luck.
 
I've been trying to start it mostly on full choke. I will try to push start her tomorrow if it stops rainin, that is if I can push her past enough on flat ground. I don't want to try to put it in the bed of my truck again and drive it up hill since my truck is lifted on 33's and I had enough trouble last time without 1/2 a tank of gas involved.
 
One thing that probably needs done. This morning I pushed and threw it in 2nd and it started right up and took off. Apperently the shift fork rod that I had to make for the clutch isn't working. Started with the starter after that. Idle was a little strange on choke and off choke (not as bad off). It would randomly rev itself a little, throttle control does nothing (hooked up, going to readjust it and see if it helps). Air filter and top where off at this point. Started smoking from the stator cover area, hopefully just the high temp paint but I'm still not sure if there was any oil that had gotten into the cover. I didn't let it run long. Going to go attempt to make a new RTV gasket for the oil filter cover. At one point she revved up to 3K on choke on her on for a second and then back down. Other than that the idle is actually pretty smooth, just revs for no reason every now and then (will try to get a video tonight).

Before I fried most of the ignition electronics like a moron a few months ago, the bike ran fine (aside from eventually frying things from using a charger instead of a battery...). Only reason why I haven't adjusted the valves yet...that and you can't get gaskets or gasket paper easy around here at all.
 
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Only reason why I haven't adjusted the valves yet...that and you can't get gaskets or gasket paper easy around here at all.
You are quite correct. Not available anywhere. :-k

Suzuki part# 11173-44112
Alpha Sports $24.64
Babbitt's $16.42
Bike Bandit $20.53
Carolina Cycle $17.06
Full Throttle $18.07
MotoGrid $17.45
MR Cycles $19.71
PartShark $16.69
Parts-n-More $8.00 (but they have a $35 minimum order)

:eek:

:oops:

.
 
I was having starting problems.It turned out to be a bad connection at the rectifier.
 
You are quite correct. Not available anywhere. :-k

Suzuki part# 11173-44112
Alpha Sports $24.64
Babbitt's $16.42
Bike Bandit $20.53
Carolina Cycle $17.06
Full Throttle $18.07
MotoGrid $17.45
MR Cycles $19.71
PartShark $16.69
Parts-n-More $8.00 (but they have a $35 minimum order)

:eek:

:oops:

.

Can't get any local and I don't have a credit card due to the lack of any credit history.

Turns out that the smoke is from the engine heating up and burning the leaking oil off the pan. Also turns out that my memory failed me a 5 am this morning :lol: The bike was not idling smooth, more like really high. Before I drained the oil in the pan (light colored now, think I may have flooded it and gotten gas in the oil), I started the bike and tried to turn the idle screw thinking maybe it got moved a bit. No matter how much I turned it, nothing was affected. By this time I have had the filter and top back on the airbox. The bike acts like it's getting gas, almost too much. Made a new gasket for the oil filter cover and I took my time (and pics). Finger tightened to oil filter cover and letting the RVT setup a little more before I tighten it down.

Looks like my shift fork rod is *kinda* working, still resistance when the clutch lever is pulled in, but the rear tire isn't locked up. My airbox is sealed with GOOP to make sure that there aren't any leaks but I don't have any clamps on the intake or airbox boots. I wouldn't think that should cause such a high idle and random revs and still not allowing the throttle to control anything though.
 
............ I wouldn't think that should cause such a high idle and random revs and still not allowing the throttle to control anything though.


Wrong. That is exactly what would cause an high idle. You're getting too much air, not gas. Needs fixed, running lean will cause terrible problems.:)
 
I'll clamp down the carbs/box when I get home then and see if it helps. Still don't understand why drastically toying the idle screw didn't change anything.
 
Now I am at a total loss.

I filled every hole and seem in the airbox minus the holes for the carbs and even made a gasket for the top of the airboxand siliconed in the drain hole in the bottom of the airbox and clamped my boots. Vent line from the head is connected to the airbox as well. But now when I start the bike, it runs idles at an even higher rpm than before with the choke off and the idle screw all the way out. It also seems like I'm not getting gas or something to the right side carb (while sitting on the bike). Apperantly it hasn't been firing at all, but there is spark. I got it to fire onceand run for awhile, but it mostly just backfires and the pipe doesn't get as hot as the left side.

Other things that have been done to the bike that may be of interest.

New Honda R/R from Duane installed and a new ignitor and I did the coil relay mod along with new stock coils to replace the factory set (I fried the left one on the factory set along with the R/R and later the ignitor). New cleaner foward controls with soldered connections, cleaned most of the other connections. Clutch safety switch bypassed. Bike had mufflers cut off when I got it so I just welded on another 36"-38" of pipe onto the stock downpipes.

Checked compression, ran up to about 145-150 psi on both cylinders. I left the hoses off the small vents towards the inside of the carbs as I did before when I had the bike running and idling lower on choke (I was told to let these vent to the atmosphere). Checked the voltage at the battery before the bike wanted to idle at 6K+ with the idle all the way out/no choke to see if my stator was problematic, 12V+ 2,000-4,000 rpm's, 13V+ 4,000 and up, even when the bike wanted to scream above 6K.

I am very confused to say the least.
 
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Some pics...

Fuel line and petcock vac hose routing


Idle all the way out and bike still screaming at high rpm's with no throttle


Carb


I guess my one cylinder no-fire problem is fuel related for this reason. The one cylinder that was firing is on the kickstand side and the uphill side would fire every now and again. So earlier I kicked the bike over in the other direction and leaned the footpeg on a small jackstand so it would tilt the onther way and guess what? No the kickstand side cylinder puuts and fores now and again while the other side that was leaning on the jackstand ran constantly. Help me...please...
 
OK, I have not bothered to look back at some of your previous posts, so I will just ask. Have you cleaned the carbs? Not just dropping the bowl and spritzing some cleaner in the general direction of the jets, I mean CLEAN, as in "dipping" the carbs. I am thinking not, mainly because your carbs are still black. The dip will tend to remove the paint, but it can be re-applied. If the carbs are not perfectly clean, you will have problems. Another possibility as to why it's running so fast with your idle screw all the way out could be carb sync. If the sync is WAY OFF, the one carb that is open could be open far enough to over-compensate for the one that's closed.

.
 
Sounds like?

Sounds like?

Sounds like carbs, maybe assembled wrong.. Need good cleaning..
 
Try a walmart prepaid visa card. You have to pay 8 bucks for the card and three bucks when you put money on it, but if something goes south nobody can mess your credt up and you cant spend past your means.
 
OK, I have not bothered to look back at some of your previous posts, so I will just ask. Have you cleaned the carbs? Not just dropping the bowl and spritzing some cleaner in the general direction of the jets, I mean CLEAN, as in "dipping" the carbs. I am thinking not, mainly because your carbs are still black. The dip will tend to remove the paint, but it can be re-applied. If the carbs are not perfectly clean, you will have problems. Another possibility as to why it's running so fast with your idle screw all the way out could be carb sync. If the sync is WAY OFF, the one carb that is open could be open far enough to over-compensate for the one that's closed.

.


Carbs haven't been cleaned because all our parts stores swear up and down that they don't have barrymen's and the gunk brand dip is $50 for a gallon and the carbs were fine and synced up nicely when I took them off. Didn't bounce them around or anything. With the idle screw, it doesn't matter how it's adjusted, the bike still screams. Please chek out post #11, it has some infoartion pertaining to making everything air tight.
 
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Have you checked Auto Zone? I just got a second can there two nights ago, so the chain should have it in their inventory. Don't know how your store is laid out, but at my store, the carb chemicals and brake fluid and all that kind of stuff is just inside the door (not more than about 10 feet from the door). Look on the bottom shelf.

.
 
Have you checked Auto Zone? I just got a second can there two nights ago, so the chain should have it in their inventory. Don't know how your store is laid out, but at my store, the carb chemicals and brake fluid and all that kind of stuff is just inside the door (not more than about 10 feet from the door). Look on the bottom shelf.

.

Yeah, at least where I live Auto Zone carries Berrymans dip.
 
Have you checked Auto Zone? I just got a second can there two nights ago, so the chain should have it in their inventory. Don't know how your store is laid out, but at my store, the carb chemicals and brake fluid and all that kind of stuff is just inside the door (not more than about 10 feet from the door). Look on the bottom shelf.

.

Asked Advance first and then asked AutoZone, I informed both that their sites stated that they are autherized dealers (at least Advance is for sure) and both times I was looked at like I was a total idiot.
 
Found out that the throttle cable was to blame! Now that I've fixed that, I started trying to dial in the idle screw and started out down the driveway and the rear tire (bald) caught some wet grass and I laid it down at slow speed (idle).

NEW PROBLEM.

Since I did that about an hour ago, the bike just does not want to start. It would fire every now and then like it was going to start but fire once, loud and be done. I was checking my plugs, pulled them, cleaned them, put them back in started it, it started. I then realized that I had left right side wire off the plug so I put it back on a gave it just a little gas and it started to fire, then it fired once, oud, almost like a backfire and now I have NO SPARK.

Checked the R/R and it checks out. Voltage on the battery is good, voltage at the coils is the same as when I first did the coil relay mod, none of the electronics are hot or burnt, all conections are hooked up on the battery. What gives?
 
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