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non abrasive/ invasive aluminium/mag dip

timebombprod

timebombprod

Forum Sage
oh guys i know its been way too long for this bike to get finished, unfortunately it is not a joke when i say cleaning parts has been the reason its taking so long, i have cleaned everything pretty damn well except the cylinder head and cylinder walls and scrubbing with a brush is taking too long with not enough effect.

my cylinder walls have been bored and cross hatched already and my cylinder head has been lapped so the machining is already done, so i was wondering if their is a certain chemical or dip or liquid that i can use to make a bath for the cylinder head and walls to gett all the crap off of them without being too rough that it would affect the cylinder walls or valve port seats.

on the upside, we do have a roller that does look pretty darn good.
 
Glass bead blasting. That's how I get my bikes down to the aluminum without affecting the aluminum. You must thoroughly clean anything you blast. :)
 
Mask off the bores and machined gasket faces then depending on the nature and severity of the corrosion etc blast them with glass bead , aluminium oxide or baking soda.
You can also jet wash or have them aqua or vapor blasted which has corrosion inhibitors to prevent flash rust if it weeps onto the bores..
 
Soda would be my recommendation. Less punishing if anything gets inside.

Making proper plugs is no trival matter. Don't fool yourself into thinking that some tape over the exhaust and intake ports is adequate, for example. Do it right or don't do it.
 
As they say theres more than one way to skin a cat. For what its worth I use a spray bottle with 50/50 water and muriatic acid. I have the hose at the ready. I shoot the area with the sauce and it will fizz. MAYBE 5 seconds or so and rinse and inspect the corrosion. Reapply as needed. I dont doddle about it. Squirt then rinse.It looks scary when it fizzes up but once you got it down youll have the entire engine corrosion free in just a few minutes and ready for repainting.

I strongly suggest you find a crusty stator cover or other cover for some self timing training. Thats what i did. Found a piece i didnt mind ruining and experimented. I would tape off the tops and bottoms of the cylinders before doing the block. Dont want sauce in the barrels.

And the aluminum will take on a grey tone from the chemical etching
 
With this being my first complete rebuild of a bike its taught me a few things, one of those being clean and prep before you machine, itll make a lot less of a risk of messing up machining if you use something too corrosive or abrasive.

That being said i ended up using an aluminum cleaner spray and soaked the head and walls overnight, worked pretty well but they're nothing to boast about. Did a rinse, scrub, and soak with warm water and dried off all I could especially the important areas of the two pieces, and then oiled them to stop rusting from happening.



I'm not gonna try and get them perfect unless i take the top end off again, everything else is gonna look new as well as the bottom end and all external cases that go to it, it'll look great. Also since the top end might now be the weakest link, why should I spend so many hours on it if it's possible gonna blow up in that area lol. I already have plans if the top end does take a crap, an 850 top end is almost a straight swap with a little bit of dremmeling, and if I'm really ambitious I can make a 1000 top end fit giving me a 963cc.

This should be the last post for a while, hopefully the next post has a picture of the bike with the motor in it.
 
chuck hahn said:
As they say theres more than one way to skin a cat. For what its worth I use a spray bottle with 50/50 water and muriatic acid. I have the hose at the ready. I shoot the area with the sauce and it will fizz. MAYBE 5 seconds or so and rinse and inspect the corrosion. Reapply as needed. I dont doddle about it. Squirt then rinse.It looks scary when it fizzes up but once you got it down youll have the entire engine corrosion free in just a few minutes and ready for repainting.

I strongly suggest you find a crusty stator cover or other cover for some self timing training. Thats what i did. Found a piece i didnt mind ruining and experimented. I would tape off the tops and bottoms of the cylinders before doing the block. Dont want sauce in the barrels.

And the aluminum will take on a grey tone from the chemical etching
Click to expand...

Truckers use muriatic acid on dump trailers and fuel tanks to brighten me.
not sure if the wheel alloy would respond as well but a test patch would be advised.

no doubt a youtuver has a demo

extreme caution its horrible stuff and the vapour will choke you
 
Please don't use muriatic acid. Only guys like chuck, who burns gas tanks over an open flame to strip bad Kreem jobs, are allowed to do crazy chit like that. ;)
 
I polished all of the brushed aluminum covers that wear corroded after the clean coat allowed water underneath I used jewelers rouge. They look like chrome, that's how bright the aluminum polished. I did not clear coat them. I can hit it with the route wheel, and it cleans right up, no need to do anything to them. An oily rag wipe (clean oil) offers much protection (very little, almost non existent oil wipe). :).
 
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