not charging...

[Redman]

...
....

My meter says anywhere from 12.65 to 12.88 while shes running-about the same as when the battery is out of the bike.
Now, keep in mind I wasnt revving to high, maybe about 3k rpm.

...
... T

T,

We could talk about what voltage is good.

But lets also say that the charging system should make the voltage go higer at mid rpm than it is at idle or at bike not running.
And, by what you say, it is not, so, your charging system is not working.

At mid rpms like, 4K or so, the voltage should go up to over 14 volts (but not high 14s). BUt you can probably get by at mid to high 13s (many have for years and years).

Dave

.

 

[t-money]

Hi Again.

Hi Again.

Okay..
First off...
I did buy the manual..even before I got the bike home.
I did do google searches for hours...before I got the bike.
I changed the starter.fixed a non functioning turn signal..and brake light switch.
Its funny, the manual doesnt cover 30 + years of crust/corrosion etc...the manual is great if your bike is like new..(Or for the specs)..
Trouble shooting can be tricky on these old machines..so I call on the experts.

Anyway, I read alot of info on Cliffs site..and its quite awesome actually.I even bookmarked it as I'm sure I will be using as a refernce as long as I own the bike.


About the charging system:

In the "Cliffnotes"(lol) for testing stator..it mentions "stock suzuki" multi colored wires to test when checking the stator.

Now, my bike is an 80 gs1000gl, so maybe thats why, but the colors are not the same as mentioned.

I'll attach a photo, so maybe it'l be easier to see.

What I have , appears to be 2 yellows, a green/white and 2 White/blues.
The 2 lower wires (1 yellow and 1 white blue) were just hanging, not connected to anything.

I did the continuity test between what I "guessed" would have been the three wires (ref cliffnotes), and I was reading about .7-.9 on the meter.

On a side note..maybe related:The rubbery connector cover/sheathing apprerd "burnt" on the white/red wire (toward the top) ..so I cleaned it up as the connection was corroded a bit.It still gets pretty hot while the bike is running.
Still NO CHARGING while shes running.(About 12.5V, regardless of how much throttle I give her)


Please help.
Thanks
T

 

[cowboyup3371]

Run the rest of the stator paper tests. I'd be willing to bet you probably will have a shot stator.

 

[tom203]

You might not have a stock stator- someone might have changed it , so ignore colors and just follow the three wires coming from stator (most likely coming up thru starter cavity). Mark them as such and test for about .9 ohm between them. If one of the stator wires was disconnected, you'd only get about 12.5 volts -this is what the on/off headlight switch did .

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

There's no telling what the previous owners have done to the wiring on your bike. You'll have to trace them yourself to be certain where they originate and make sure they are connected properly.

You have only three stator wires (output wires) that should connect directly to the three input wires of the regulator/rectifier (whatever color they are). From Phase B of the Stator Papers Fault Finding Chart:

On the GS models, Suzuki used different colours for the three output-wires of the stator. They are the only manufacturer doing this.The only conscious reason for this would be a desire to cause confusion, because the output of all the three wires is the same. The colours on the wires from the stator are : Yellow, White/blue and White/green. On the RR (input) we're talking : Yellow, White/blue and White/red. JUST THINK THEM ALL BEING YELLOW, and then go on with the checks below.

Your bike likely has a loop of wire running up to a non-existant headlight switch. This loop is designed to disable one leg of the stator when the headlight is turned off. That's why the white/green wire comes back as a white/red wire to connect to the r/r unit. This is covered in the regulator/rectifier replacement guide on my website. These days we bypass that loop of wire and connect the stator outputs directly to the r/r inputs thusly:

The above is actually a diagram for an r/r upgrade using a Honda regulator (a Shindengen FH-012 or similar). That's why you see a 6th wire, or "sense" wire used to help keep the regulator output constant.

The stator output wires exit the lower engine case via the starter cover. That brittle sheath should have only three wires in it. These three wires get connected directly to the input wires of the r/r unit.

Connect the ground wire from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. A lot of voltage can be lost between the r/r output (red wire) and the (+) terminal of the battery as it makes its way through the fusebox, and possibly connected to the starter solenoid, and finally on to the positive terminal of the battery. Every connection must be clean and corrosion free.

For more information see:

GS Charging System Health+Quick Test

The Stator Papers

More On The Stator Papers

Cleaning Your Wiring Harness

Fusebox Cleanup

Stator Test

​

Stator Replacement

​

Regulator/Rectifier Replacement


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[t-money]

Thanx..
Well did all tests..according to paper..it seems im only getting 40 volts ac..while shes running.all 3 measurments are the same thoigh.
Do they ' wear out" slowly?paper says shld be 60 v min..but equal.

Thanks..

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

If the electrical system has lots of corrosion and resistance the r/r and stator run hot. As the insulation on the stator windings melt and short out, the AC output diminishes.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[t-money]

Yeah..even though all 3 meaure the same. 0.9 resistance test..and 40v ac test..the green/white wire always gets hot..regardless of which rr wire i connect it to.
So would you suppose i replace stator before rr?


Thanks

 

[t-money]

O well.Just bit it and ordered a new stator and R/R.

Thanks

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

That's what I've done in the past, replaced both components at the same time. Be sure to clean ALL of your electrical connections, from fuse box to blinker stalks, from headlight bucket to taillight assembly, in order to cut down on the heat caused by 30 years of corrosion. I burned through a couple of stators because I didn't do a complete job when cleaning my wiring harness.

Let's see if I can find one of my toasty stators...

Yep, I ruined two stators because I thought I had cleaned all the connections "good enough". It was an expensive lesson. I recommend the Rick's stator over the Electrosport and RM Stator parts.

The Rick's Electrics stator has the good sheathing that will not turn brittle, has bullet connectors already soldered (which I cut off anyway), AND includes the rubber grommet seal for the stator cover. Plus, the wires are plenty long enough. Sometimes the others can be too short.

Then try to find a good used Shindengen r/r unit (like from a Honda) from Ebay. The $100 r/r units sold by Electrosport and others, that are similar to the stock parts, are not any more robust than the original Suzuki parts.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[t-money]

Thanks much for all the hlp and advice.ive been living and breathing your site..thanks for having it.
I got my starter from..bike bandit...but the box said ricks..either way i received it less than 20 hours later.awesome.

Thanks

 

[Souske]

Thanks much for all the hlp and advice.ive been living and breathing your site..thanks for having it.
I got my stator from..bike bandit...but the box said ricks..either way i received it less than 20 hours later.awesome.

Thanks

Fify!

Also consider replacing some connections, 30 year old bullets start to give up. Gave me a heck of time trying to get my bike charging.

If one contracts to do electrical work, does that make them a "solder of fortune?"

 

[t-money]

Fify!

Also consider replacing some connections, 30 year old bullets start to give up. Gave me a heck of time trying to get my bike charging.

If one contracts to do electrical work, does that make them a "solder of fortune?"

Yeah..i tested continuity and sanded a little corosion here n ther already..
Ill prolly jist go wit new ones when installing the new stuff

 

[posplayr]

Yeah..i tested continuity and sanded a little corosion here n ther already..
Ill prolly jist go wit new ones when installing the new stuff

sanding bullet connectors doesn't do a thing for the corrosion in the crimps

 

[t-money]

sanding bullet connectors doesn't do a thing for the corrosion in the crimps

That is true.


Just want to say thanks for the help everyone... Especially Basscliff.

I Put in the New stator & R/R. Charges like a champ.


Now...on to that pesky Oil leak.

Thanks eveyone.