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fyarl666
Guest
So it is indeed an 81 GS400L, yes? So why is everyone so confused whenever Im trying to find parts for it?
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So it is indeed an 81 GS400L, yes? So why is everyone so confused whenever Im trying to find parts for it?
It's probably an imported model. (Canada?)
http://www.suzukicycles.org/GSX-series/GSX400L.shtml
Seat on Ebay (located in Kanada)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/S1108-SEAT-...DefaultDomain_210&hash=item51be747666&vxp=mtr
http://www.suzukicycles.org/GSX-series/GSX400L.shtml
Seat on Ebay (located in Kanada)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/S1108-SEAT-...DefaultDomain_210&hash=item51be747666&vxp=mtr
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fyarl666
Guest
I am indeed in Canada. I can only assume that the bike was originally purchased new in Canada, as it used to have a dealership sticker on the back fender that was from Melfort, Saskatchewan.
Also, I noticed there was a black box next to the R/R that says TR.IGNITER. I'm assuming that this is indeed the igniter I may have inadvertently fried?
Well lets not assume anything at this point in time. I think it best 5o figure out what is wrong with it.
See if there is a part number on that igniter and if there happens to be one, post it up in this thread.
See if there is a part number on that igniter and if there happens to be one, post it up in this thread.
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fyarl666
Guest
It says BB1201?A 12V TR.IGNITER NO3290 47020 KOKUSA DENKI
Gonna grab some better tools in a bit and try to get that plate off to see if it's got a points plate.
It wouldn't have both points and an ignitor. It would have little magnetic pick ups around the crankshaft end, which has a rotating magnet on it. This sends a signal to the ignitor so it can tell the ignition coils when to make a spark. The weak point is the ignitor, it's the only thing that can really be hurt by a failed regulator allowing the wrong voltage.
This should be you igniter part number ill see what models it fits when I get a bit more time.
The part number for a 1981 GS450L igniter is 32900-47020
Find a shop manual for a GS450 or any other model that uses it and get started testing the SYSTEM.
Find a shop manual for a GS450 or any other model that uses it and get started testing the SYSTEM.
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fyarl666
Guest
Yeah I couldn't get that cap off the right side of the crank case, all i did was strip two if the screws holding it on, but I see it has a gasket in there, so it's probably got crank case oil in it, not the points plate.
So what's the next step? I need to get it home first of all, but I still want to get the tank off to get at the coils.
As far as doing a full system text on a bike that won't start, how do I go about it? Am I just doing resistance tests all over the whole bike?
So what's the next step? I need to get it home first of all, but I still want to get the tank off to get at the coils.
As far as doing a full system text on a bike that won't start, how do I go about it? Am I just doing resistance tests all over the whole bike?
Get an impact driver, the hand held type you hit with a hammer. Needed for any screw on any old motorcycle. There's no oil in there with either ignition type, in fact that cover is vented. The gasket is just to keep water out if you go deep.
The pickups in there are probably OK, there's no system voltage going to them so they wouldn't have gotten hurt by your over voltage. It's just a magnet and a couple coils.
There are ignitor tests shown in the service manual as Rusty says.
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fyarl666
Guest
Anyone have a .pdf version? Finding stuff like that locally is more of a challenge than finding out what's wrong with the bike.
I have a suzuki manual, but it's really just basic spec stuff and schematics, it doesn't really explain how to do voltage tests and whatnot.
Bikecliff's site....
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
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fyarl666
Guest
Okay, I got the damn thing trucked back to my house finally, thanks to the help of several friends.
Gonna start by checking the coil after I get the tank off.
If those are good, should I be tracking down a new ignitor box?
Gonna start by checking the coil after I get the tank off.
If those are good, should I be tracking down a new ignitor box?
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fyarl666
Guest
Wasn't able to do any testing yet. It's been a rainy week here and as soon as I had all the tools outside to take the tank off, the sky opened up again I didn't think it was a good idea to have all the electrical exposed to all that rain so I cleverer everything up and came back inside.
I'm just trying to think ahead a few steps. I'm thinking it's either the coils or the CDI box that is the culprit.
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fyarl666
Guest
Wait, is the CDI box the same as the ignitor box? Or is that something different?
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fyarl666
Guest
Okay, so it still might be the ignitor box that is guilty.
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fyarl666
Guest
Okay, Ive been quickly trying to compile a list of test data in between cloud bursts, and here is what I got so far (keep in mind THE BIKE WON'T START, so I did all the tests I could think to do with a dead engine.)
Battery at Start: 13.3 volts.
I then did a quick key start to double check that indeed the spark plugs weren't sparking, and the battery dropped to 12.6 volts.
Left side coil:
Ohms @ 200: 3.7 primary,
ohms @20K: 1 secondary.
The service guide I got from Bike Cliff's site indicates that the primary should be 3.5 - 4.5, and the secondary should be 23 - 25,
right side coil:
ohms @ 200: 3.8 primary
ohms @ 20k: 0 secondary
service guide states primary should be 3 - 5 primary, and 21 - 25 secondary.
So that's bad.
Next, I did a diode test on the new RR.
1. Red Lead to red wire, Black Lead to all the yellow wires, all three readings just said 1.
2. Black Lead to red wire, Red Lead to all the yellow wires, 508, 505, and 507.
3. Black Lead to Ground wire, and Red Lead to all yellow wires: all three said 1.
4. Red Lead to Ground wire and Black Lead to all yellow wires: 515, 498, 464.
New stator test, Ohms @ 200, between all three yellow wires: .8, .9 and .9.
Between all three yellow wires and touching the engine case, it just stayed
at 1.
After all this, checked the battery again, 12.7 volts.
So there, everything I could get at the time.
Obviously the secondary for both coils are bad, but what could cause both coils to go bad all at once?
Any other tests I should be doing (keeping in mind the bike doesn't run)?
Battery at Start: 13.3 volts.
I then did a quick key start to double check that indeed the spark plugs weren't sparking, and the battery dropped to 12.6 volts.
Left side coil:
Ohms @ 200: 3.7 primary,
ohms @20K: 1 secondary.
The service guide I got from Bike Cliff's site indicates that the primary should be 3.5 - 4.5, and the secondary should be 23 - 25,
right side coil:
ohms @ 200: 3.8 primary
ohms @ 20k: 0 secondary
service guide states primary should be 3 - 5 primary, and 21 - 25 secondary.
So that's bad.
Next, I did a diode test on the new RR.
1. Red Lead to red wire, Black Lead to all the yellow wires, all three readings just said 1.
2. Black Lead to red wire, Red Lead to all the yellow wires, 508, 505, and 507.
3. Black Lead to Ground wire, and Red Lead to all yellow wires: all three said 1.
4. Red Lead to Ground wire and Black Lead to all yellow wires: 515, 498, 464.
New stator test, Ohms @ 200, between all three yellow wires: .8, .9 and .9.
Between all three yellow wires and touching the engine case, it just stayed
at 1.
After all this, checked the battery again, 12.7 volts.
So there, everything I could get at the time.
Obviously the secondary for both coils are bad, but what could cause both coils to go bad all at once?
Any other tests I should be doing (keeping in mind the bike doesn't run)?