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Odd turn signal problem.

  • Thread starter Thread starter JaNewb
  • Start date Start date
J

JaNewb

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I followed the wiring directions for the turn signal relay swap from the O.E.M to the tridon Stant ep34 flasher unit and it isn't working. Voltage checks out at between 11.5 and 11.8V to ground and neutral. Wire's are correct and not reversed. The old flasher unit still turns on the lights but it doesn't flash, it just stays on. The new flasher unit doesn't turn it on at all and I've tried two. Ordered a second one after the first one didn't seem to be working. I find it hard to believe that I got two defective flasher units in a row. Any idea's as to why my turn signals won't come on at all?
 
Yea my grounds are working properly. Voltage between the neutral and hot, as well as the ground and hot.
 
What is a tridon Stant ep34 flasher unit? Who recommended it? Why not a used or new OEM one?
A good fully charged battery should be above 12v IIRC.
 
It's a unit recommended as a replacement by one of bikecliffs guides. I don't mind paying the money for a new O.E.M flasher unit but in the guide it said this one worked and is a 1/4 the cost. Figured I'd give it a try. It has the same voltage requirements as the OEM part, I checked the stamp on the both of them.

I'll charge up my battery to full and see if that does anything to my voltage but I just rode around for a while and it still ain't working. Double checked the wires I hooked up the flasher unit too and their exactly what they should be as far as I can tell.
 
Try it with the bike running . Sometimes they won't work if the bike is not running. Don't know why but have seen it before.
 
Is your charging system ok? Check your battery voltage when its running.
 
Tried it with the bike both running and not running. I'm using a socket relay as well to mount it.... Maybe the little clamps aren't tight enough and the connection is poor. Next thing I'm going to try is taking the wires out of the socket and directly attaching them to the flasher with some wire knuts. All my other wire's are soldered so there's no way any of those other connections aren't good.
 
make sure B is to the 12+ in from the battery , L goes to the load, or lights and E is ground.

that flasher is a 3 prong. it needs a dedicated ground.
 
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JaNewb said:
Do my rpm's have to be at a certain level when I check the voltage? Or should the battery just be running a bit over 12V?
Click to expand...
You should see 14v+ with the engine revved 3000+ rpm or so, IIRC
 
I'm thinking you have it wired wrong. wasn't the stock one 2 prong? or if it was 3 prong then the other wire was for the self-canceler.. that wire will be UNUSED and the new units 3rd prong will go to ground.
 
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A dedicated ground? I have the ground spliced in with my black/white wire that's ground for my running lights. Maybe that's my problem. Because as it is the old 2 prong wire's are just hot and neutral. The old one still works when I attach it to the correct wires, granted it doesn't flash. If it's a dedicated ground do I need to run a wire directly to the ground of my bike?
 
I'd try that.. to the bike frame.

let us know!! a slight voltage might be backfeeding thru the bulb filaments or something the way you have it..
 
Last edited:
Hi,

JaNewb said:
A dedicated ground? I have the ground spliced in with my black/white wire that's ground for my running lights. Maybe that's my problem.
Click to expand...

Yes, could be. In my write-up I specifically state a frame ground (pg. 3). When I was testing, doing the mix-and-match to see what connections worked and what didn't, I used the negative battery terminal as the ground (pg. 2). When I was done I grounded the unit to the frame using the bolt holding the rear master cylinder (pg. 6).

Your bike should be similar. What works for me should work for you as long as you follow those instructions. Double-check your wiring diagram in case your bike uses different color wires. Keep us informed.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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