oem air filters - 1981 GS1000G

[blakebird]

My bike came with a K&N filter element in it, and in the process of trying to eliminate the climbing idle, I would like to return to an oem filter, or Uni foam replacement.
The Uni is easy to find, but the inner 'frame' of the oem filter is required, and that's the part I don't have.

I've started digging thru some of the sites, but thought I'd get a quick answer here....like "dood, it's available from Suzuki" or similar.

 

[doctorgonzo]

My bike came with a K&N filter element in it, and in the process of trying to eliminate the climbing idle, I would like to return to an oem filter, or Uni foam replacement.
The Uni is easy to find, but the inner 'frame' of the oem filter is required, and that's the part I don't have.

I've started digging thru some of the sites, but thought I'd get a quick answer here....like "dood, it's available from Suzuki" or similar.

dood, it's available from Suzuki...

Or at least I think it is, check the parts fiche at bike bandit. if not, I had a fire on my 1000G soon after I got it that trashed the airbox, BUT I think that frame is still in there and usable. If you want me to check I will, It's yours for the shipping cost.

 

[twr1776]

Today, 01:23 PM blakebird oem air filters - 1981 GS1000G My bike came with a K&N filter element in it, and in the process of trying to eliminate the climbing idle, I would like to return to an oem filter, or Uni foam replacement.

If you still are running the OEM box the K&N filter alone should not cause the climbing idle issue.

Is the rest of your airbox sealed correctly? Does the top of the filter have weatherstripping or foam on it where it seals tightly from the filter top to the bottom of the airbox? Is the "snorkel" still attached to the airbox?

 

[Nessism]

How long since the intake pipe boot O-rings have been changed? Also, where are the idle mixture screws set? Both of these factors will have more influence on the idle speed increase than the air filter type.

 

[blakebird]

If you still are running the OEM box the K&N filter alone should not cause the climbing idle issue.

Is the rest of your airbox sealed correctly? Does the top of the filter have weatherstripping or foam on it where it seals tightly from the filter top to the bottom of the airbox? Is the "snorkel" still attached to the airbox?

How long since the intake pipe boot O-rings have been changed? Also, where are the idle mixture screws set? Both of these factors will have more influence on the idle speed increase than the air filter type.

oh man....I knew that would open up the flood gates.

Yes, I realize the filter element alone won't cause the idle issue. It's just on my list of things to do, like rebulding the petcock - to get things back to oem condition.

• The airbox boots are pliable and in good shape, the snorkel is attached and in good repair.
• I just sealed the airbox with new foam - the foam was nonexistent on the ends and the old foam was crumbly.
• I replaced the intake o-rings (and mounting screws with sst allens)
• The idle mixture screws are 3 turns out (going to 2.5 next)
• The rubber seal at the chrome end caps was carefully remounted.
• The float needles, checked. Their o-rings, replaced.
• Float bowl gaskets, replaced.
• Float height checked, right on the money.

Since doing the work mentioned above, the climbing idle is much less prevalent than before. It would eventually climb to 3,000 rpm and not come back down until it cooled down. Now, it takes longer for the idle to climb, and it seldom goes above 1,800-2,200 rpms, and intermittently will idle normally at a stop.

A little baffling, but since I got it buttoned up, I took a weeklong trip on the FJR and the GS has been waiting for my time to free up so I can dive back in. Mostly going to recheck some of the airbox seal work I did, then will replace the mixture screw o-rings - since the tank is coming back off.

The only o-rings I didn't replace, were the ones on the fuel tubes interconnecting the carbs. They don't leak, and I was unable to get the philips screws loose on the rack holding them together - and I decided for the time being I won't risk mangling those screws to replace something that is not currently keeping the bike from running well.

At this point I'm hoping the remaining problem, being relatively minor as it is....can be addressed at the mixture screws.

At least one of the three responses addressed my question - I have Bike Bandit's parts fiche bookmarked, and will give it a check. My bad for saying it was part of the process - instead of "while I'm at it..."
I thought maybe a vendor similar to Z1 had them, but oem is fine if they have it. Thx!