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Oh poop

ed i would love to learn every inch of these bikes.. The next thing i know i will be a certified pro like you!!! LOL ARE YOU READY TO RUMBLEEEEEEEEE?????
 
Ed, not a half bad idea.

Chuck might be coming by in the next few days to work on/upgrade his '750's charging system, then we can kill two things at the same time.
 
first day i am not working with Scot i will be there.. All my spare parts are up north in my storage unit.. Yes we can install the unit you have but what if the stator is junked??? and yup we will pull that head as well i am curious to learn all i can about the bike and the engine.. will be a cool experience.
 
UPDATE... I built a re-purposed DIY leak down tester (thread soon to follow).

cylinders 1 and 4 less than 5% leakage
cylinder#2 12% leakage out the intake valve.
cylinder#3 100% leakage.

time to remove the head and investigate.

Bummer and very strange. Sounds like something is holding one of the valves open.
I finally got back to working on the '80 this evening after "quite a few" non M/C related projects.
I haven't ripped it down any further than just taking the one exhaust valve out.

all I can say is... PLEASE check your valve clearances!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9782/img2168q.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/1411/img2167kd.jpg
 
Holy cow!! That's one nasty valve...

well, at least now you know what the problem was.
 
Sucks!...

May be a dumb question but any thoughts on what coulda caused this?
Looks like a plain old burnt valve to me.
 
Usually from the clearance adjustment being neglected far too long as he said.
The clearance gets too small, the valves can't close, they can't transfer heat away through the seat, they get hotter and hotter, stem expands from the heat and gets longer, valve can't touch the seat at all, pretty soon flames are leaking through and then it looks like this.
Could be a carburetion thing but that's not really very likely.
 
A plain old valve held off it's seat because of little or no valve clearance. when it's held off the seat it can't transfer heat to the head. remember metal expands when you heat it and that's the reason you need clearance. if you start with no clearance and the valve is heated by burning exhaust gases, the heat transfers to the stem, the stem lengthens, the valve is lifted off its seat and you see the results.

<edit> sorry Tkent02 I was interrupted while composing this... carry on.
 
Well, at least its repairable!

Wow Dale,

That bike wins (or looses) the prize for worst maintenance. People that refuse the adjust their valves are just plain idiots.:mad:

The next question is whether the seat is salvageable? Hope so. Let me know if you want to borrow my Neway cutters.
 
Wow Dale,

That bike wins (or looses) the prize for worst maintenance. People that refuse the adjust their valves are just plain idiots.:mad:

The next question is whether the seat is salvageable? Hope so. Let me know if you want to borrow my Neway cutters.
Ed, the bike had 34k miles on it and all the shims in it were 2.75 and 2.80's. it's no wonder why the valve burnt. I think the seat will survive but the stem on the valve is pretty dark. didn't notice any galling so hopefully the guide is ok. I'll tear it down and inspect it, then make the decision whether to find a valve or two and rebuild this head, or just go ahead and use the one that's on the spare engine I have. (with new seals and inspection of course)

thanks for the offer to use the cutters. I "may" need to take you up on it.
 
Am I missing something here, I see the burnt valve and hense no compression on that cylinder, but how did that cause the motor to lock up, when trying to turn it???
 
You're missing nothing.

I bought the o-rings for it and ordered valve stem seals from Z1 yesterday. when I go to re-assemble it, I "may" find what could have been the cause of it not rotating fully. I suspect it's chain timing related.
 
Dale..just curious, but i dont recall if you had told me what exactly you had found with it..Has been a while since you discovered it..So whats the status now??
 
Let's see, the tank is wrapped up in a soft pad on the top shelf in back. the fairing, seat and NOS fender are on the couch on top the motorcycle bench I made. the side covers are wrapped up in cloth bags on the luggage rack. the carbs, air box, cam cover and the exhaust I bought out of California are in the lean-to. the fairing lowers are on top the second shelving unit. the gaskets are in a box on the work bench, along with the cams, buckets and guides. the head, cylinder and valves are on the make shift work bench (saw horses and door). bolts are in tins next to the bike. and, the engine is all covered up.

just waiting for the stem seals and the o-rings I just bought; then it's back to work.

I "hope" to have it ready in time for Simon and Deb's arrival. wishful thinking?
 
Sounds to me that i need to go salmon fishing here in a few weeks when they are running the river and spring some fillets over and we can wrench and have some grilled salmon for dinner..
 
It's fighting me tooth and nail. two of the buckets won't go back in their respective bores. I've got one in the freezer trying to shrink it. if that doesn't help, back off comes the head, then I'll try polishing the bore with 1500. it's either that or I'm going to put the head off the spare engine on it.

***edit*** I pulled the head and found where I nicked the bores. I took one of my watchmakers files to the areas, touched them with a little 1500 and the problem is gone!
 
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Oh Poop version 2

Oh Poop version 2

She's back together and I'm back to square one...

The engine turns stop to stop about 150 degrees. it's timed correctly and the valves aren't hanging. what's puzzling me is the engine spun when the head was off. so I pulled the starter off, pulled the advancer and it still does the same thing. next will be removing the clutch and stator covers for inspection. if I don't find a solution, in goes the spare engine...
 
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