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Oil change and now N is tough to get

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mercaholic
  • Start date Start date
M

Mercaholic

Guest
Just dumped out the old oil from my '83 GS1100E and replaced with Motul semi synthetic and now finding Neutral is a chore.

Rode for 85kms and clicks down/up easily thru from 1st to 2nd but can barely sense the detent for N.

Would this indicate sticking of the clutch with the new oil?

oh ya, the crankcase has the correct oil level
 
Never tried semi-synthetic in a GS.
I'd get it good and hot and drain as much as possible (tilt it/rock it) and go back to regular 10/40 or what the factory manual calls for.
 
API_donut.gif


Check the API seal on your oil. If it looks like the two on the far left, it'll bugger up your clutch.
 
The oil is fine. I'd try adjusting the cable a smig, tighten it. Different oils have slightly different effect on the clutch so tweak it a little and go with it. No good reason to dump $20 worth of oil down the drain (in the recycle bin of course).
 
Nessism said:
The oil is fine. I'd try adjusting the cable a smig, tighten it. Different oils have slightly different effect on the clutch so tweak it a little and go with it. No good reason to dump $20 worth of oil down the drain (in the recycle bin of course).
Click to expand...

Oh, that reminds me. My shifter completely locked up on me once. Cause of the problem? Lack of lubrication on the shifter linkage. Might as well double check that while messing with the cable.
 
Nessism said:
The oil is fine. I'd try adjusting the cable a smig, tighten it. Different oils have slightly different effect on the clutch so tweak it a little and go with it. No good reason to dump $20 worth of oil down the drain (in the recycle bin of course).
Click to expand...

ED...you and I are in the same camp here. THE OIL IS FINE!

You may need an adjustment to the clutch cable (check the search or hop over to BasCliffs' site and do a bike specific search) and you will be good to go. ;)
 
Merc: I attended a level one motorcycle safety course a few weeks ago. One of the subjects we covered was oil. Synthetic oil will clean your engine, make certain you use wet clutch specific. It wont break down like dino motor oil and will likely increase your performance and longevity. I've heard good things about Amsoil. Low miles or high does not matter, if you start now your engine will benefit by increased lubrication lowering your engine temperature. The more you read about oil and its nature the more informed your decision. You cant know too much about motor oil. Take care,
 
Seems like my suggestion wasn't well liked.
I simply replied to what he said was causing his problem...the oil he chose.
Now if cable adjustments help, that's great. But if his cable was already adjusted correctly? I probably shouldn't have assumed that was checked/played with.
So if it comes to it, dumping the oil and going to what the manufacturer says to use is better than screwing up the clutch and tranny. The semi-synthetic will also make your older bike more prone to leaking so keep that in mind.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
So if it comes to it, dumping the oil and going to what the manufacturer says to use is better than screwing up the clutch and tranny. The semi-synthetic will also make your older bike more prone to leaking so keep that in mind.
Click to expand...

Leakage from synthetic is urban legend. Or stated another way...if you have voids in your seals and/or gaskets, and said voids are plugged up with sludge from your oil, using a synthetic oil may clear out some of this sludge and lead to weeping at these voids. In my world the oil is not to blame for cleaning out sludge.
 
Nessism said:
Leakage from synthetic is urban legend. Or stated another way...if you have voids in your seals and/or gaskets, and said voids are plugged up with sludge from your oil, using a synthetic oil may clear out some of this sludge and lead to weeping at these voids. In my world the oil is not to blame for cleaning out sludge.
Click to expand...
"In your world"? Uh...OK.
Thanks for backing up what I said. Older bikes will leak easier if a synthetic is used.
And any bike that isn't shifting correctly because of the oil just put in it needs to have that oil changed.
 
Motul is good stuff!

Motul is good stuff!

As long as its MC Spec. The semi syn is actually known to improve trans shifting. Made a big difference in my Step-son's race quad, as well as my 750. the 1100 is getting 300V after break-in.
Was it warmed up? what weight is it?
Your idle may be to high. doubt its the oil.

Sorry just realized you rode it awhile, so it was warm. Maybe its actually shifting better/easier making it slide right past N.
 
Last edited:
KEITH KRAUSE said:
"In your world"? Uh...OK.
Thanks for backing up what I said. Older bikes will leak easier if a synthetic is used.
And any bike that isn't shifting correctly because of the oil just put in it needs to have that oil changed.
Click to expand...

Nice spin Keith.:twistedevil: Actually you should change it from "synthetic" to "any oil with robust detergent additive package".:p
 
I had the same sort of problem with my GS1000E when I first got it after changing to synthetic. It fought with me until the clutch cable broke. A nice new clutch cable from Bike Bandit and proper adjustment solved all the "hard to find neutral" problems. Now oil type does not seem to affect clutch adjustment.
 
Another controversial OIL THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HA HA
They can always manage a difference of opinion.

Ah Well, at least it's not politics or religion.

It will have to tale 3rd place.
 
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