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Oil Change question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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Hello there, I'm a first time questioner. Hope I'm doing this correctly. I did a search on this question, but didn't find anything. Feel free to advise me on how to do a better search, in case this topic is already out there. My question is...I just tried to change the oil for the first time on my 81 GS650GL. I changed the oil filter and put a new rubber gasket/washer on the plate that covers the oil filter. I tightened the three nuts that hold that plate on, switching from one to the other so the pressure was constant on each nut/stud. I'm sure the torque was okay. I started the bike after refilling the oil, and oil started leaking out like crazy. I did it all again with the same result. Did I get a bad washer/gasket? Or am I missing something? Should I be using some type of sealer before reinstalling that plate? Thanks for any help. By the way, I'm not a mechanic. In case you couldn't tell.
By the way...this is a great site! I've learned a Lot!
Thanks! Al

After some more searching, I see that I'm talking about the oil filter plate and the O-ring. But I still haven't found anything that speaks to why it won't seal toghtly. Before I did the oil change, I had no leaks. The bike is in good shape with about 15, 000 miles on it. Thanks! Al
 
The rubber seal can move off or out of the groove during re-install.
Take adrop of oil on your finger tip and run it around the groove and the rubber seal.
Then place the seal into the groove.
It also helps if the rubber seal is "warm", as in flexible.
When you place the cover back on, yes it's a pain with the spring pushing back against you, but try sliding it on smoothly and as you did
tighten them down slowly and going from one to another until tight/snug.

Also check the rubber seal tha tyou didn't platten one part of it from
trying to insatll it already. Check it against the one you took
out to see if it's the same diameter.

What brand filter? some people here don't like Fram,I've never had a problem, but I'm kind of a fanatic about oil changes....


As to some additional sealant, I've never used it, some here may use it.
 
Welcome to GSR.

If you said that you went for a ride and noticed a little leak or if you said after a few days you noticed some weeping of oil, then I might say to try some sealer like RTV or something.

But you said it was leaking like crasy after you started it. I dont think torque on nuts is the problem. Either the rubber o-ring came out off its groove, in which case you may notice its smashed when you take it apart, try a little oil to help hold it in place in the groove. OR my biggest suspecion is that maybe you got some dirt-grit on the mating surfaces. As the filter is right behind the front tire, and it doesnt take much, just one or two pieces of sand or grit. That was a problem for me - once. Since then I look first around the oil filter cover before starting oil change, maybe spray some degreaser, then maybe blast it with a water hose. Or if it seemed okay, not gritty, not sandy, I will still be carefull to wipe away any grit from the mating surfaces while its draining and again just before putting the cover back on.

If you meant it ran out even before you started it, then I might think you have filter not seated back all the way (or wrong filter) and then cover doesnt fit.
 
Vasoline or plain ole' grease will work good in keeping that gasket in it's little groove...

1. Put Vasoline/plain ole' grease in groove that rubber seal rides in.
2. Install cover.
3. refill with oil of your choosing
4. enjoy leak-free operation
5. get a beer

:twisted:
 
More than likely the o-ring moved out of its groove & got pinched. If so, if its not damaged badly you can probably use some RTV silicone with it to & take care of the problem. I usually use a bit of grease in the groove when installing the o-ring to keep it from moving. Make sure both mating surfaces are clean & don't overtighten those nuts--no more than 6.0 ft. #'s of torque, that ain't much!
 
You all are the greatest. I think I'll pick up a new O-ring today and start over. Using some vaseline to make sure the O-ring stays in the groove. And I'll get the beer in step 5 rather than step 1.
Thanks for the help!
 
Albo,

See all the help you get here! And all the advice is consistent with each other, well, this time anyway har har har

Just about anything you come acraost with your GS, there will someone or several that have had similar.

Hey, keep at it, keep doing what you can on the bike. Before too long you may want a manaul and before too long you may have need of a multimeter (Volt & ohms).
 
REDMAN said:
Albo,

See all the help you get here! And all the advice is consistent with each other, well, this time anyway har har har

Just about anything you come acraost with your GS, there will someone or several that have had similar.

Hey, keep at it, keep doing what you can on the bike. Before too long you may want a manaul and before too long you may have need of a multimeter (Volt & ohms).
Click to expand...

And before too long, you will be having that beer at step one instead of step five :P :P :P
 
Lots of people have done the same thing. Hopefully, just once...
 
In reinstalling the oil filter cover, only enough is needed to compress the "O" ring under the cover, so 6 ft lbs torque is max. Those small studs that hold the oil filter cover will strip easily. I have had your problem with the "O" ring seal. It appears not all "O" rings, even Suzuki parts (with the same stock number) are exactly the same thickness. (manufacturing variances I guess)
Putting a small amount of grease on the "O' ring to hold it in place while you install it will help to make installation easier, but if it is slightly too thin, it will be to no avail. The "O" ring when placed in the groove in the oil filter cover, should be thick enough to protrude noticably above the groove. It it sits low into the groove, it will probably leak. If the old "O" ring you had on the filter did not leak, and looks to be in decent condition, I would reuse that one.
I only change that "O" ring about once a year on my bikes. As long as it is still pliable and not flattened, it will be fine.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
In reinstalling the oil filter cover, only enough is needed to compress the "O" ring under the cover, so 6 ft lbs torque is max. Those small studs that hold the oil filter cover will strip easily..........
Earl
Click to expand...

This is excellent advice! :D

BB
 
The first time I changed the oil I used a Fram filter and supplied O-ring. It leaked as you described. Upon checking, I found the Fram O-ring was considerably thinner than the old OEM I replaced, and wasn't sealing. I put in a new OEM gasket. No problems since. I have changed the oil many times since, always with the Fram filter. I have noticed that the supplied Fram O-rings vary in diameter greatly. I keep the beefy ones as spares, but I'm still running on the OEM I bought.
 
ponfosications on sealants

ponfosications on sealants

An old and highly succesful racing engine builder I know growles menicingly at the mention of sealants used in engines. He claims that he has seen too many engines ruined by their excessive use. Loose silicone can cause huge problems inside an engine and for that reason he advises against them unless it is essential. One must use small amounts to avoid the stuff squishing out internally and it would be a good idea to allow enough time for curing to guarantee that the clingons stay put should they exist. Fresh silicon can mix somewhat with the oil and be transported about within the engine and myself, I could imagine that it could greatly compromise the function of an oil filter in this situation. Factories dont use it and neither do I unless I get all scotish about a leakage problem.
 
Re: ponfosications on sealants

Re: ponfosications on sealants

3phase said:
Factories dont use it and neither do I unless I get all scotish about a leakage problem.
Click to expand...

AH but they do!!
 
I had the same thing happen to me... get done with a stator/ rr change and filter change too of course. Start 'er up and whadda I get but oil streaming from the oil filter cover. Being tired and irked I ended up stripping out one of the acorn head bolts due to too much torque... STILL leaked....

I pulled the oil filter cover and the (new) gasket was practically in 3 pieces.

I'd noticed the gasket was a good bit thinner than the "stock" one but figured (Ok... so I'd had a few beers during the stator change) that it would just compress... heh...

All this to ask... is there a brand that has consistently good filters with consistently good gaskets? Or is it best to just have a spare OEM gasket or two layin around? I didn't like re-using the gasket (looked like it had been re-used before) and would like to avoid buying new darned gaskets every time I change the oil! (my experience was with a napa gold filter).

Curtis

The first time I changed the oil I used a Fram filter and supplied O-ring. It leaked as you described. Upon checking, I found the Fram O-ring was considerably thinner than the old OEM I replaced, and wasn't sealing. I put in a new OEM gasket. No problems since. I have changed the oil many times since, always with the Fram filter. I have noticed that the supplied Fram O-rings vary in diameter greatly. I keep the beefy ones as spares, but I'm still running on the OEM I bought.
Click to expand...
 
Re: ponfosications on sealants

Re: ponfosications on sealants

focus frenzy said:
3phase said:
Factories dont use it and neither do I unless I get all scotish about a leakage problem.
Click to expand...

AH but they do!!
Click to expand...

My KLR650 has vertically split cases. Kawasaki uses LOTS of sealant on that joint. It bulges out everywhere on the exterior, and I've seen photos of the wire oil screen filled with the stuff (it has a paper filter further downstream). I haven't had my wire screen out for inspection yet.
 
Re: ponfosications on sealants

Re: ponfosications on sealants

dietcokeking said:
focus frenzy said:
3phase said:
Factories dont use it and neither do I unless I get all scotish about a leakage problem.
Click to expand...

AH but they do!!
Click to expand...

My KLR650 has vertically split cases. Kawasaki uses LOTS of sealant on that joint. It bulges out everywhere on the exterior, and I've seen photos of the wire oil screen filled with the stuff (it has a paper filter further downstream). I haven't had my wire screen out for inspection yet.
Click to expand...
The cases are sealed with Hondabond or similar. They don't use a silicone sealant. The factory may use silicone sealant, but I've never seen a joint that it's used on.

I just finished rebuilding my 1100 and didn't use a drop of silicone sealant anywhere. There are no leaks. IMHO, silicone sealant is Shade Tree Mechanics 101.
 
Re: ponfosications on sealants

Re: ponfosications on sealants

Siclicone also breaks down into "Jello Glue" when exposed to gasoline. :-) Not something I want anywhere in my engine.

Earl

Swanny said:
I just finished rebuilding my 1100 and didn't use a drop of silicone sealant anywhere. There are no leaks. IMHO, silicone sealant is Shade Tree Mechanics 101.
Click to expand...
 
Before I get too critical of silicone sealant, I should add there is a place for it. When broken down on a trail (or road), I have been known to resort to zip ties, silicone sealant, bungie cords, and duct tape for emergency repairs. Once back in the shop, it's done right.
 
Thanks to all who responded. I think the o-ring I bought was too thin. I bought two more yesterday and will try again. Meanwhile, I hope to heck I didn't torque those nuts down too tight. Or I'll be back with that set of issues.
Thanks again y'all!!
 
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