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oil cooler fabricateing

And on another related matter....

The sealing ring that is mentioned in some posts here, is not a part of the adapter Terry made for me. He has a press-fit brass pipe sitting neatly over the outlet hole. That is sufficient. Any extra space is taken up with the gasket between the adapter and the crankcase casting rather than in the pickup point.

Remember that these bikes run high volume very low oil pressure, about 1.5psi. As long as there is sufficient sealing on the pickup point, most of the oil will go through the adapter. Even is there is a bit of leakage, lets say as much as 10% leakage (very high level), that is still 90% of the oil going through the cooler. I would guess at 1% leak being more likely. And the leaked oil will just run through the motor galleries as normal. There is no real pressure drop across the cooler as the pressure is too low in the first place.

Kim
 
thanks for the updates, i just read your posts and am going to digest them, then see about posting what i have done so far, as well as a couple more questions i have, that may make fabricating easier like not needed a lath.
i see if can get to it this week

-ryan
 
hey guys here are my PRELIMINARY drawings, i can't garuntee that all the measurements are good but i am pretty confident that they are. i can print out a copy of the bottom plan cut it out and lay it over my orginal oil cooler adapter, and every thing lines up.

right now some issuses i am concerned with are:

when the holes get tapped for the oil fititngs will the threads of the oil fitting cut through the wall?

how easy is it to make the bottom perfectly flat so no leaks can happen, do i need to make a grove for a seal?

what kind of napa oil switch do i need? part #?

how easy are these drawing to read and make sence from?

how easy is it to fabricate?

ok guys those are some of my questions i would like to see anwsered

maybe woodworker or a bored machinest can try to make one of these things using my info and lets see how it goes before i finalize it.

it may be pretty easy to do out of a block of oak and a band saw as a model.

the original drawings and the adapeter had a lathed tub the hooked up to the oil output but don't see any need for it to be round i think we can make it square and and still have enough room to let the oil flow around it. this way it makes it easier for some one to fabricate this adapter them selfs especially if they don't have a metal lathe.

ok as promised here are the PRELIMINARY PDF FILES. the drawings are at full scale if you print using adobe acrobat reader with the scale to fit print option turned off then they are full size.

www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/BOTTOM.pdf
www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/BACK.pdf
www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/DRIVERS_SIDE.pdf
www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/FRONT.pdf
www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/passange_side.pdf
www.grimp.net/ryan/pdf/TOP.pdf


PLEASE GIVE ME FEEDBACK SO I CAN IMPROVE THESE.

-ryan
 
ryan, I can see you're putting a lot of effort into this so we all can benefit. Thanks for that.
I'm thinking about installing a cooler on my 1000 also. Because I don't know much about them, I'm a little worried to do something wrong and screw up my motor.
Back in the early 80's, the Lockhart Phillips 700 series kit, p/n SU-582, was considered the best oil cooler for the 1000. I'm keeping my fingers crossed to locate one, but I may have to substitute another oil cooler and come up with an adapter. I think "Terry", a member here, has made some adapters, but I haven't questioned him or anyone else about the results yet. I'm naturally leary of "home made" parts because something vital to design/performance could be over looked.
I wonder if anyone has the Lockhart kit on their bike and can share the adapter spec's with us all? It seems it would be easy to take it off and share the measurements.
 
MIne is just an O-ring... On the gs 1100's there is nothing there. The oil presure switch is just hanging there.
 
MIne is just an O-ring... On the gs 1100's there is nothing there. The oil presure switch is just hanging there.

then again your sender is on the side...
 
hey kieth, these specs are modeled are modeled and take from the lockhart cooler, (i have one) but i wanted a scond one for my 550 hence these drawings, basiclly when you start looking at it the adapter is a pretty simple thing. oil out, oil in. the parts tha tyou need to be carfull with are how tall the tower is , if it's not to tall enough then then there is a little space between the tower and the oil output port and the oil will just squirt by and be sent right to the oil input port. no harm done but no oil being sent into the cooler either. pull your ol pressure switch, it is real simple. under there, there is a oil ring that seal it so no worry about messing up a gasket.
another concern is being able to make the bottom part flat and smooth enough so it won't allow oil to sep out. other then that my design is pretty solid and a good machist should be about to fab one of these pretty easy. with the tower it can just be made a little longer and can be ground down a little at a time till it fit nice.

i'll let you know how it goes in a couple weeks i may have a machist to do this for me.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/shoebox.msnw?Page=Last

here are some picks of the lochart adapter, it's basiclly the same as mine, just not with the old pressure switch i hope to use a smaller one.


-ryan
 
Thanks ryan. Excuse my ignorance with this. Does the Lockhart adapter still use the stock pressure switch?
 
hey guys the process still marches along just want to share the part number of the oil pressure switch i found that was talked about in the artical that started this all.

it's a napa oil pressure switch .5 psi to 2 psi part number op6115

ryan
 
I am planning to make an adapter based upon your drawings. Thanks for all your work on it. Have you used your design successfully? Has anyone else? Any problems to watch for? Thanks again.
 
hey there, the design works pretty good on the bigger bore bikes like the 1000's it won't fit on the 550 size bikes, not enough room. also those drawings a couple things are a little bigger like the tower then it needs to be so you will have to carefull fill down the extra so you get a flush fit.

also if you go to a autozone/pepboys type place to buy the oil pressure switch it is about 50% cheaper then nape, just give them the napa number and they can cross ref it.

when things slow down i will get back on this project and finalize some stuff.

-ryan
 
just an update, the adapter is still working fine (about 2000 miles) and the motor hasn't blown up yet. One thing though is my switch went out, it was a autozone switch so it might have just been cheap. i will try one from another parts house, my napa one on the 550 seems to still be going strong.
 
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