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oil in valve shim area?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rippledub
  • Start date Start date
R

rippledub

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Hi, I'm doing my first valve adjustment and I just have one quick question . . . There are varying amounts of oil pooled in the areas around the valve shims . . . some are almost empty, some have quite a bit of oil in them . . . normal?

Thanks!
 
rippledub said:
Hi, I'm doing my first valve adjustment and I just have one quick question . . . There are varying amounts of oil pooled in the areas around the valve shims . . . some are almost empty, some have quite a bit of oil in them . . . normal?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes that's usual.
 
I use opieces of paper towel to absorb the oil a bit so it doesnt splash or otherwise run off the head and get on the engine.
 
I bought a turkey baster to remove the oil. Haven't tried it yet. I think its a good idea to have oil in there when you button it up.
 
Yes on a dab of oil after you do the adjustments, but its sloppy and makes a mess as you are doing the process.
 
What's real fun is when the tool slips, and the shim gets slapped back down, flinging oil in your eye. Yeah! :rolleyes:
 
A lot of people here do not like that tool! Makes me want to try the Zip Tie method, especially as I have not bought the Suzuki tool yet.
 
The tool likes to slip off the rim of the bucket if you dont depress it perfectly true to the cam. I just use a flat tip to press in on the side of the tool as I rotate it down..it doesnt slip off that way.
 
I ordered "The Tool", I was reading the zip tie method, and I didn't like the idea that carbon deposits could get dislodged, which could make your second measurement with a new shim possibly off? However . . . I was sitting around today, and realized I just needed to get clearance measurements, and shim sizes, so I can order some shims. I am going to rebuild the head before I install any new shims, therefore It wouldn't matter if any crud got dislodged.

Since "The Tool" will be a few days till it arrives, I tried the zip ties, and it works just fine, though it wasn't always easy to get tie started in valve opening. I had to fiddle a while on a couple of them.

So here is what I got:
Cyl. #1 intake ~ .06mm clearance, with a 2.65mm shim
exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
Cyl. #2 intake ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.50mm shim
Cyl. #3 intake ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.55mm shim
exhaust ~ .09mm clearance with a 2.45mm shim
Cyl. #4 intake ~ <.038 mm clearance with a 2.6mm shim
exhaust ~ .10mm clearance with a 2.45mm shim

The .10mm clearances could be anywhere from .10mm to .14mm (my feeler gauges jump from .10 to .15)


The #4 intake is tighter than my .038 feeler gauge (my smallest)

If I buy (2) 2.60mm shims, and (1) 2.5mm shim I should be able to shuffle shims to open #4 intake by .05, and close down all the rest of them by .05 (Leaving #1 intake alone of course)

Sound about right anyone?
 
If your gonna rebuild the head..that will include recutting the valve seats, having the rough looking valves refaced..or better yet new replacements..so what you have there now is of no use.

Once all the head work is done, then reinstall the shims in the same spot they came out of ( mark them as you remove them ) and then youll have realistic numbers to work with.


If your gonna ride it the summer, then yes get the right shims..for now.
 
gotcha

So if I decided to ride for the summer, do my numbers look like a good starting point? I realize since some clearances could be as High as 1.4mm, I might ultimately need to bump up two sizes?

I wish I could just button it up and ride, but there is enough oil leaking out of the engine while I ride to make me not happy. So I thought as long as I am going to go at the head gaskets, I better check out the whole top end.

I am a newbie, just in case you hadn't already figured that out! The bike is in great shape, stock, and complete, very little corrosion anywhere, seems to have been basically well maintained, and kept indoors. I haven't even found any stuck screws/nuts/bolts yet. So I am crossing my fingers I can just clean, lap, hone and put back together. A guy can dream, can't he?

Is honing what I am thinking? Cleans up cylinders, and I would be able to use old rings if they are in spec.? Or is it a bad idea to try to use old rings?

I did order new valve stem oil seals. (and every other seal/gasket/o-ring in top) Hoping guides are ok.
 
The only one thats any good is the #1 intake..all others need to be brought to spec.

As for the rings. If you have it apart and are gonna do all the work to be sure the seats are cut, valves lapped, new valve stem seals etc etc...then whu ise the old rings? Its afew bucks more and youll know 100% that EVERYTHING in the engine is new and trouble free for the next 70,000 miles or so. Thats if you do regular oil and filter changes AND check the valves at the required intervals.

As for new shims...get the sizes you need for each valve recorded and get a PM off to Ray ( Ghostgs1 I think ) and tell him what you need. What you do is get the ones from him at the Shim Club, then once your old ones are out you mail him the take offs.

If the valves give ANY resistance sliding thru the valve guides, DO NOT force them. Just hold them up from the bottom and take a small file and go around the stems to smooth off any worn edges. Forcing them scars the insides of the guides or could actually break them..not good.
 
Last edited:
rippledub said:
Sound about right anyone?
Click to expand...
May I humbly suggest that you enter your findings into the spreadsheet that I sent you last week?
icon_shrug.gif


Plug in the numbers, it will tell you what you probably need. Since they are all on the loose side, it will be rather accurate.

.
 
And get a set of metric or the combo set of feeler guages so you can have all the ones needed to accurately read the gaps.
 
chuck hahn said:
And get a set of metric or the combo set of feeler guages so you can have all the ones needed to accurately read the gaps.
Click to expand...
Metric would be nice, but the only "combo" ones I have seen are actually INCH feelers with metric approximations on them, so they won't be any more (or less) accurate than what he is using now.

And, ... my spreadsheet doesn't care which one he uses, it does all the conversion for you. :D

.
 
Hi,

Just so you know, there's nothing wrong with valve clearances at 0.10mm on your bike. I always run on the loose end of spec, and a little over. I would not run them any looser than .10mm. Be accurate with your measurements. As Mr. chuck hahn suggests, get yourself a good metric set of feeler gauges. They usually start at .04mm and go up to .10mm in increments of .01mm. It's also handy to have a digital caliper to measure the shims themselves. They are not always exactly the size they are labeled. You can use those odd sizes to fine tune your clearances.

You've probably seen this: Valve Adjustments (8 Valve)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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